Uberoo

I needed to find a cone or round straight style airfilter for a diesel conversion I am working on.However I didn't want to spend 30+ for a "ricer" airfilter- chrome housing,colored filter elements,etc.I also I don't like k&N style air filters either.For my project I needed something with a 2 1/2" inlet. anyway I went down to walmart to pick up a couple gallons of oil for engines and transmissions,etc.Anyway I was walking down the FRAM isle and I noticed some airfilters were round with one end blocked off.I found a tape measure and started measuring inlets to see if I could find one that might work for my project.FRAM stock number ca8805 turned out to be the winner.It has an inlet of 2 1/2" with a soft rubber surround.so I payed $11 for it. Once I got home I looked it up and it fits ANY dodge/plymouth neon from 2000-2005.2.0L and 2.5L which means it will flow more than enough for any of our N/A subarus.and its cheap, unlike those universal air filters you will find at parts stores. dimensions of the filter: style: round straight paper element inlet: 2 1/2" diameter:5 1/2" length: 6" its fairly small so placing it in the engine bay shouldn't be a problem.So if you need to make a cold air intake or a snorkel maybe this might help you.unless you are made of money... it may not be flashy but it will flow enough air not to be a restriction on our engines and it will filter well too.besides the orange rubber surround is flashy enough for my tastes... heres a pic

yea the problem with xj's and subarus is the unibody. eventually the tubing will start to roll in and up because it doeset really have anything strong to mount to. in some cases it may make the doors no operable.not to mention it can possibly "taco" the roof.

at superbrightleds make sure to get the 18 LED or 45 LED tower lights.They have lots of radial mounted LED's so the light reflects and fills up the housing with light.otherwise LED's tend to create a "hot spot" of light directly in front of the LED..

I have seen people run a small light in parallel with LED turn signals to get the right speed. on my offroader I am thinking about replacing the stock taillights with a set of LED trailer lights mounted higher and further inboard because I keep breaking the housings...

according to oriely auto there are two different pressure plates.an 89 XT6 has a different pressure plate than a 89 XT.

I went offroading once and blew a tire,and a friend in a chevy let me borrow his spare stock wheel.knocked two studs out and drove home 30+ miles with it like that no problems... I drove my offroader for 2 years with a missing stud on drilled rims...on the back wheel..

I don't have anybody to convoy with if I went.I'm to far away from y'all...

this may sound dumb but when is wcss13?

nissan case from a 84? nissan/datsun 720

it also leaked oil like a sieve-valve covers,cam covers on the back of the engine...I tried to fix the cam cover leaks and ended up making it worse.ended up loosing about 1/2 quart for every 200 miles I drove...

My 93 lego would tick if the oil got below 3/4.Put some more oil in and it would go away unit the oil level was below 3/4 again... oh crap I necroed.

the yard is 2 hours one way.

I think alot of the subs are a bit camara shy because of all the tree rashes they have on the bodywork.Mine used to have alot of tree rashes and different colored panels.Then I painted it green...

closest place i can recommend would be pull and save in spokane valley.Ea81's are a bit rare there.plus you don't know the condition of the engine.Best bet for a good engine is pulling the engine from something that got wrecked-something big enough to take it off the road.IE being T boned, or rear ended... straight cars are usually there because the engine or transmission died.

Quote: Originally Posted by Uberoo a friend actually got 15 HP on a dyno by plugging in an electric leaf blower and running it into his engine.it used the shop's AC... Unless he got it on a dyno, we all have a freind that got something.

I built a "subframe" under my car that connects the lift blocks to each other as well as providing a stout attachment place for mounting the transfer case to.the lift blocks are 2x8x2 sections of 1/4 wall steel.The sections that connect the liftblocks are 2x3x 3/16 wall.plus the weight of the transfer case.Thats where the weight come from. Ive "rallied" my 89 dodge w250 with the cummins turbo diesel,at like sixty through the woods.I go about 50-60 on the gravel roads to get where I go offroad in my subaru.You wont have any problems with a 2" lifted subaru or any lifted subaru at 30-40 on tight turny gravel roads.. think of it this way, the pro rally guys go about 120 MPH on some sections of gravel roads with trees lining each side-harpins,jumps,etc-the cars are usually lifted about 1-2" for more suspension travel..

Ive had my car at some pretty extreme angles and it didn't feel tippy or top heavy.You want tippy? how about my friends 89 ford ranger with a 9" suspension lift and a 3" body lift-running 38" tires.That is tippy.Ive taken lines that he would never dream of taking.my offroader is lifted 8",but its a transfercase lift so the engine is still in the same spot relative to body as a unlifted vehicle. FYI you will notice an extra 20 lbs on a 70-80 HP 4 cylinder.I added maybe an extra 150-200 lbs in steel when I lifted my car and now it is HEAVY-at least thats what the engine feels like.

I had a 91 (I think) subaru justy 4x4 RS(13" wheels vs 12").I loved it was the the most nimble little thing I have ever driven.within 2 days of owning I drove it down "old spiral highway" in lewiston at an average speed of 65 mph. that is the fastest ive been down it because everything else would wash out on the corners up top and I would have to slow way down.. However the justy has a fatal flaw.The shaft that drives the oil pump passes though an aluminum housing with NO BUSHING.As a result of that most justy engines died a quick death.I picked up mine with a thrown rod.I replaced the engine with one I got from the junkyard and it lasted a week.I was actually driving it down to the parts store to get an oil pressure gauge to monitor it.Oil pressure light flickered at a stop light,and a block latter it was siezed. its a great car,handles great,sips fuel-just you need to fix that bushing before you expect it to last long.

Ive had a intake manifold and wiring harness for a 93 subaru legacy sitting im my garage for a while just incase I wanted to put an EJ22 into my offroader. About two weeks ago I grabbed a long block from pull and save.however, stupid me I forgot to grab the bolts for the intake manifold-and the exhaust manifold gaskets... what is the thread size for those bolts?Length would be helpful but If I can find a bolt that will thread all the way down to the bottom I can figure out the length needed with my tape measure... Also would permatex ultra grey work as a gasket instead of the specified gaskets for the intake manifold?I'm down to my last $20 unless I can find another "handyman" type temp job...

what is a good object to use to permanently keep the tensioner compressed?Ive used small drill bits before to keep it compressed for a short time while installing them,but they seem to bend alittle bit, so not really ideal for long term use.

It would be nice but my rockers always seem to self clearance-thus giving me more ground clearance at the sides...

a friend actually got 15 HP on a dyno by plugging in an electric leaf blower and running it into his engine.it used the shop's AC...

I have a phase 1 non interference EJ22 that will be going into my EA81 body offroader.Im curious about running the timing covers or not.In the EA82 camp I normally remove the covers but I was advised not to remove the covers on any EJ series engine-interference or other wise. I have first hand experience with the covers on EA82 and EJ22's keeping coolant and oil from leaks in for the belt to run through.Ive also watched muddy water drain out of both EA82 and EJ covers after going mudding.I have also had to change the belt on EA82's or Ej22 and found lots of crap stuck in the covers. is there any reason why not to run covers on a non interference Ej22 other that because "debris" may wind up in the belts and skip time/break the belt?If that is the only problem than I can easily bring a spare belt.

for the price I like my welded diff.

I posted up a couple of pics for the heck of it.Now I probally should go work on putting my EJ22 in it...