BruceyWV

So since this thread I have swapped a 2008 CANBUS 5EAT 3.0 Outback final drive ratio. I've also recently successfully swapped a 2013 Outback TR580 from 3.9 to 4.11 final drive without issue. Planning out the 3.6 TR690 now and using the previous two as proof of concept for it. I have a write up on the recent TR580 swap if anyone is interested. https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/diy-outback-wilderness-or-cheaper-cvt-repair.564652/ Hope this helps!

Eh. It's her car and something she's excited for. It was time to get rid of the H6 VDC Baja anyway. Plus the 2.7 Eco boost seems to have good ratings. It's not like GM is offering anything competitive in that sector anyway. Current Blazers are a joke. I still have my 99 3/4 Ton Suburban and '06 1/2 Ton Suburban as well. What can I say? I like cars.

The wife has a '21 Bronco 2 door Sasquatch on order. I'm sure it's a better wheeler than the Subaru too. That's not why I'm doing it. I am doing it to say I did it. Similar to the VTD center swap for the '17 3.6 I'm also researching.

If its that easy I would love it but I kinda doubt it with the CANBUS cars. The ratios are different in addition to the Ascent having 8 'gears' while the 3.6 Outback only has 6. I know when someone swaps in a Tribeca transmission for better gearing into an H6 Outback they need the TCU for it to be happy and those are CANBUS. Hence me thinking the easiest way to get 4.44 gearing would be to simply swap the front diff ratio. The computers would never know the difference.

Of course. (: I already have the rear end from an Ascent but that seems like a simple process. Similar to when I swapped the rear end to match the H6 I put in the Baja. I'm yet to get the parts for the front diff because if just swapping the entire transmission seems easier I might just go that route.

Anyone done it successfully? Or even the TR580? Would it be easier to just swap the entire transmission? If so I would think the TCU would be needed to make CANBUS happy? I've seen a couple 4EAT blow the front diff so I know they can be replaced independently so it should be possible in the TR580/690 since they're pretty similar on the front diff and AWD unit. Looking to swap 4.11 to 4.44 gearing in my 2017 3.6 Outback.

Just read this whole thread. Could probably use a lift, but awesome work man!

1. Super City in winter can get as low as 14 a tank. Regular city is more like 20~24 a tank. Highway is around 34~38 a tank. 2. 2000 Outback 3. SOHC, 60K on the engine. 4. Automatic 5. Mobil 1 6. No modifications to intake/exhaust 7. Stock size. Low Rolling Resistance 8. Front/Rear Sway Bars, Overload coils, Cross bars removed, Passenger mirror removed, wheels taped up, front end blocked off, smooth panelling along the under carriage (Minus around the exhaust), skid plates.. 9. The engine was built and bored .040 over.

Am I the only one that still uses 2$ plugs?

Mine broke in the same spot at exactly 80K I lived without it a year just fine, but after getting in some snow on the interstate I decided it was time to replace it, got an aftermarket sway bar kit (front and rear) for 200$. Works dandy.

15's clear the 2000 outback just fine.

Forester struts also wont work on that generation outback as the rear of the forester uses a macphereson set up and the rear of the outback uses a multi link suspension.

I know the mechanisms are actually in the wiper assembly on mine, as its just a matter of swapping stalks to go from 3 speed wipers to intermittent. If you can find a wiper assembly from a similar forester with rear intermittent, it SHOULD be a simple swap in.

My front yard before I got gravel in it.

I know somebody with a set of these on their S-10 and they're pretty awesome for generic All Terrains. I've even been considering putthing them on my wagon whenever my goodyears wear out.

Only needing to sell 2 a year to pay for overheads.

They arrived, they look ************ing bad ************ing rump roast, 5 matching BFgoodrich All terrain T/A with white lettering. Tread looks pretty monsterous. I'm happy for 50$ a tire, can you guys fit 31's on your subies? If so, heres your new tire.

Just got 5 31 inch mud tires for 380$ shipped, can't beat that with a stick. I'll report back on how they turn out.

I think I will, everyone thats tried them has had wonderful things to say about them, but its been a very limited set of people. Just was wanting a bigger crowd. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=473347

Instead of starting a new topic, I'll go slightly off on this one. Anyone have any experience with re-treads? You can get some fairly mean looking ones for next to nothing it seems: http://treadwright.com/ I was looking for something cheap for my buggy and stumbled across it.

Would the plastic not shatter if you dropper the car on it? I guess thats what the frame is for, nvm.

I can't wait until someone shows a road sign bolted to the bottom of their car!

Eh, back to pulling the fuse for winter. I at least know I can stop (even if its sideways) without ABS.

Going down steep hill (35 degrees or so), Heavy slush, First gear as at the bottom of the hill is an intersection/stop sign. Never topped 5 mph, and I still managed to just slide right by the stop sign and the state trooper, no ticket though, he knew I was trying. Would simply kicking it into neutral have worked better and disable ABS? I'd feel more confident know I can simply kick the shifter forward and have full lock up when needed than disabled the ABS permanently by pulling the fuse. (I did that last winter, still better than having it, but its the other side of the coin.)

Wooo http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23708 Made it all of 70 miles.