SevenSisters

Wheel bearings half shafts fuel sending unit transmission components for torque bind and bleed down if auto (make sure fuse is not in awd holder) Driver side visor Make sure the check engine and ABS (if equipped) lights come on at start-up First generation Subarus are worth buying. Good luck.

The most important item is to make sure you get all the air out when re-filling. It ain't easy. Some people raise the front end. I suck out the air with a vaccum pump. Hoses may last forever, but it can't hurt to change them.

Dittos. Don't fuel up when the tanker is discharging. For what it's worth, I've talked to people that pull into a station that's receiving gas because they think it is fresher. They probably didn't realize a typical station gets at least one load a day. Does any body buy Top Tier gas?

The hubs are pressed into the housings. Sell them together or take them someplace to have them pressed out.

Have AutoZone read your check engine codes. Bet someone can help once you tell us what they find.

No less shameful either. This is the problem.

I wouldn’t let my ‘ru get towed 2 feet with the wheels on the ground. Whether to tow a Subaru with the wheels on the ground or off is a true test of a tow operators scruples and morals

I just cut and pasted tech data off a website. Doesn't everybody get 38mpg?

I believe Harbor Frt. still carries a "v" belt wench to hold the pully. Take a look.

That's pretty close to what they say. Maybe they had a full tank? Technical Data: 2001 Subaru Forester S LimitedBase price$27,095Price as tested$36,195Type4-door, 5 passenger compact SUVLayoutlongitudinal front engine/all-wheel-driveEngine2.5 litre 4 cylinder, SOHC, 16 valvesHorsepower165 @ 5600 rpmTorque166 @ 4000 rpmTransmission4-speed automaticTiresP215/60R-16Curb weight1475 kg (3252 lb.)Wheelbase2525 mm (99.4 in)Length4460 mm (175.6 in.) Width1735 mm (68.3 in.)Height1595 mm (62.8 in.)Trunk space906 litres (32 cu. ft.) (seats up), 1670 litres (65.7 cu. ft.) (seats down)Fuel consumptionCity: 10.8 l/100 km (26 mpg) Hwy: 7.4 l/100 km (38 mpg)Warranty3 yrs/60,000 kmPowertrain warranty5 yrs/100,000 km

nope, overinflation gets you wear right in the center. As you over inflate a tire for the load it carries, you round out the tread radius. You loose contact area with the road and traction. Check it out by driving over a piece of paper on a smooth surface and seeing what parts of the tire actually contact the pavement at different pressures. As far as outside wear on both shoulders goes, here’s my wear theory, although none of the tire manufacturers’ websites agree with me. I don’t think they’ve rethought things since the days of bias tires. No one on this board probably will agree either, but this information is only worth what you’re paying for it. As you increase pressure, even with a radial, you round out the tread. Remember the driving over paper experiment? The center of the tire has a larger diameter, carries more of the load, and makes good contact with the road. The shoulders on the other hand, are smaller in diameter, don’t have as much weight on them, and slip and scuff as the tire revolves. Picture three bicycle tires attached side by side. The center one has a diameter of 26”. The two on the outsides are both 25.5”. If they were separate, the large one would travel further in one revolution than the smaller ones. You do the math. Now, for each revolution the assembly turns, the smaller tires have to actually turn a little more to keep up with the larger one. This creates scuffing, squirming, and leads to wear of the smaller, outside tires. To me, this is analogous to shoulder wear I've observed running at higher pressures. I know, all the internet pictures show, and people think that tire wear comes from touching the road, but if alignment is correct and you’re not trying to push the tire down the road sideways due to toe problems, I say over inflation causes shoulder wear due to poor contact with the road. Look at the irregular wear created by bad shocks and struts. This is also caused by tire squirm and scuffing due to loss of contact with the road. I'll admit there may be some steering geometry issues with Subarus that accelerate shoulder wear during turning in city driving senarios, but whether I'm right or wrong on this theory, I've been sticking ptetty close to what the tire placard says.

OK. You're off to a good start. Problem may well be the coolant sensor. Maybe someone can tell you what resistance it should read cold and hot if you want to check it out. Probably just as easy to replace it. Once it's in, have Manny clear the codes and you should be good to go. The computer may have to re-learn what a good running engine is.

A little trouble shooting is in order. Get the codes from the check engine light. Since it won't start, you can't drive it to AutoZone to get the codes read, but I think they will loan the scan tool for a deposit. Get back to the board with the codes. Check for spark and fuel. An internet search should produce some basic automotive trouble shooting sites. Remove a plug and see if it's wet with fuel. Hold a plug wire about a 1/4" from ground and crank. Don't put the wire against your tounge like you're testing a 9 volt radio battery. The car wash part suggests you have bad ignition wires, coil or some other electrical problem. When it is running, mist the ignition components in a dark area and look for arcing. Good luck and get back.

Not exactly sure for you guys with new cars, but I think this is how mine works: Engine cool....no fans Engine hot......one fan as needed AC on.....two fans

The wheel may be locking or the sensor thinks it's locking. Clean the tone ring and the gap between the ring and sensor. Mine rings developed a lot of rust and there was magnetic fuzz in the gaps. Chech the gap for the correct spacing. Check under the passenger seat to see if any codes are flashing (open up the little carpet flap).Good luck.

Uncrimp=Unstake=put a small chisel or screwdriver in the slot and pound it in until there is clearance to turn the nut. Make sure you're following all precautions when working with this as it effects the bearings. I never elected to re-boot an axle. You might check into the price of a re-manufactured half shaft. Easier and less messy to put in. Replace the outer seal(s) if you go this route. Good Luck.

You need to locate the leak yourself and determine the extent of the problem. I think it would be unusual for a 1999 tank to leak and more unususal for the tank to leak and a hose clamp to leak at the same time. It may just be connections or gaskets. You did your homework on what the "whole" job should cost, but it wouldn't hurt to get a second opinion on the leak too if you can't find it. If the pump's not broken, don't fix it. I'm surprised they didn't also recommend new tires, shocks, and a transmission flush. You didn't say how mechanical you were, but you could save another $300 by dropping it yourself. "I couldn't find a tank listing, but a fuel pump from AutoZone is about $150. You do the math.

I hope this link gets you where you want to go. If not, search for the AutoZone page and vehicle repair guides. It may be frozen up too. Use a lot of penetrating oil on the linkages. http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1e/75/e1/0900823d801e75e1.jsp

I'm wondering what condition your fuel system is in. Have you noticed if the tank is above or below 1/4 tank when you encounter the problem? Fuel pump or pressure regulator may be to blame, as well as, connectors. At low fuel levels, the pump runs hot and may kick out for an instant or two. Cools off and is fine. Probably will be hard to diagnose, but if the plugs, wires and coil have been changed, it at least worth being cognizant of.

It would have been too simple for Subaru to make the spare the same size. Pull the fuse and buy a full size spare.

Your old unit has value. If there was not a core charge, everyone would throw away their old worn parts and there would be nothing to rebuild. When you bought the rebuilt power steering unit, you paid for someone else's used unit ($90) plus the rebuilding costs ($399). When you or your mechanic returns your old unit, you or the mechanic gets the $90 back. The next guy will pay $90 for your old part, as well as $399 for the it's rebuilding. The cycle continues.

Removing and cleaning Subaru sending units seems to be a practical and economical alternative to replacement in many cases.

Looks like doodlegoat has a pretty close match. I'm still trying to figure out how the tape measure got in there.

I've used Bon Ami on my windshield numerous times without noticing a problem, but Mark-O is right. I just read the label and it says not to use on windows or mirrors. I'll try to find something approved for glass in the future. By the way, the label also says "chicks do not scratch for food for two or three days after hatching". I learned two new things today.

It's just behind the back seat, in the trunk. Lift up the carpet and look for access cover(s).