84Scoobaroo

Me and Brandon (Deathhatch on here) went out to our local wheelin spot last night (after dark=no cops) and had some fun. Got stuck a couple times, and my car got covered in mud due to my offset wheel/tire combo, I love it! Pics are here Highlights/Stupidity: Brandon: 1) Putting the hatch on its side thanks to stump and a rut the tire slid into. Actually a really funny moment. All I here is "Mayday, Mayday" on my 2 way and look back to his KC's being in a vertical line. Me and my cousin hop out to push him over and were good to go. No real damage 'cept for the popout window was popped out and shattered, also a dent in the door. Good thing I have spare cars! 2) Gettin stuck on the way out in a gnarly bog (think 44" tire rut) the back pass side tire lost pressure (bad seal on the bead) and prevented his 3 wheel drive. The driver side axle was out due to lazyness in not putting it in. Made it out with my help and to the gas station were we did a nascar style stop with 3 buddies as the jack picking up the back of the hatch. Me: 1) No lift 2) No travel due to no lift 3) Open air cleaner (think hot-rod style open element) I cut mine for street performance. 4) Pushing Brandon out backwards from the gnarly bog then driving through it again. 5) Bent to $#^@ diff hanger causing even more binding (preventing me from turning sharp. Fix that with a railroad tie prybar. Sorry no pics of the actual wheelin, only the aftermath. Good thing as I probably would have gotten the camera covered in mud much like my clothes thanks to Swamper brand Gumbo Showers See ya in the mud, Jay

I do believe the inside snorkel could work, in an open top jeep perhaps. Not so much on a closed cabin subaru though. 2" PVC and a hole in the fender should do it. Might have to relocate the vacuum canister though thats near the fender (or where it might get cut). Oh and attached is Qmans Snorkel pic.

The neck makes me think thats for an XT. so my guess is an EA82T 4EAT XT radiator.

I will be there in a Lucent Grey 86 XT. Competing of course

screw the axle nut onto the stub axle, until it sits flush with the stub and then one good whack with a hammer will loosen the concave washer (donut thing). By putting the axle nut on to the stub, it prevents the threads from being messed up, stripped, etc. Heres a copy/paste of Edrach's axle removal/install directions. Remove the cotter pin in the axle nut while the car is still on the ground and "break" the nut loose with the 36mm socket and a long breaker bar. Remove the wheel after jacking the car up (wheel chocks and jackstands are VERY important here). Knock out the pin on the DOJ with a drift-tool from the UNBEVELED hole and remove the pivot bolt from the lower arm. I don't remove the sway bar mount (never had to). Pull the DOJ away from the transmission; it should move freely now but won't quite come off. Tug on the wheel hub and pull on the DOJ and often it will pop off the stub axle. If not, loosen the nuts at the top of the strut tower a bit (don't take them off!) and/or pry the lower pivot arm away from its support with a crowbar or large screwdriver. This should allow you to get the DOJ off the stub axle. Now remove the castle nut, and both washers (tapping the hub smartly with a small hammer will help get the spring washer out). Now the trick is to get the spindle out of the hub. Either get a large gear puller (6 or 7 inch version) or a sledge hammer and a block of wood. You can push the spindle out with the gear puller or smack the spindle with the sledge (MAKE SURE THE BLOCK OF WOOD IS THERE to prevent damaging the threads--hard to get your core charge back if the threads are bunged). You might need to use your drift and a smaller sledge and pound the spindle out the last inch or so via the small hole in the end. Now carefully remove the axle from the car. Installation is the reverse of removal. Feed the spindle into the hub first; once you get the nut started on the spindle you can use two screwdrivers to pry the spindle out of the hub. I have a number of large washers that I use for spacers to help that along. In really difficult cases I remove the four bolts holding the outer portion of the hub and put the hub aside to give me more purchase on the end of the spindle. Once you have the spindle through the hub reinstall the washers and castle nut and tighten (not completely yet). Now re-install the DOJ (line up the splines first and note that the splines only line up one way--one hole has a tooth in the center and the other has a groove in the center). Tugging on the hub you should be able to slide the DOJ back onto the stub axle again. Line up the holes and knock the spring pin back into the BEVELLED hole. Put the pivot bolt back into the lower arm and tighten. Tighten the nuts at the top of the strut, replace the wheel and drop the car back on the ground and tighten the castle nut to 145 ft-lbs of torque (or more--more is better and won't hurt anything). Torque the wheel lugs to 75 ft-lbs replace the cotter pin in the castle nut and you're done. Retorque the lugnuts after 300 miles again and check the castle nut for tightness (yes they can loosen up--I'll explain the mystery of that some other time if you ask nicely). Start to finish takes less than 45 minutes unless you run into a snag.

Happened to me too, but it was just a fuse. If not that, i would check the power/grounds, and rewire if necessary. *shrug*

When im running my XT (MPFI) it has a surging problem, that i attribute to the O2 sensor. I can drive for 200 miles and it will still surge, yet if my car is warm, and i let it idle for a few minutes it goes away and my car runs like a champ. Im going to unplug my o2 to see if that changes any. I would like to hear others comments on this subject as well. Edit: Unplugged o2 sensor and drove around tonight. Car runs much better without the surging effect that im used to. Maybe the o2 sensor is sending the computer bad data???

Im Interested in a "Subaru Offroad" windshield banner. And an " www.ultimatesubaru.com " banner for the bottom of my hatch glass on my wagon.

I had my old red wagon up to 85+ on a cold winter morning (12:30am) with a little tailwind. Right about 5200-5300 RPM in 4th.

Id like to reaffirm the fact that Rob should attend with the T-Coupe (provided he goes easy on it ). It will be fun to meet all the USMB'ers attending. Any G2 competition for me , this is my first event and I cant wait. Gonna' break (hopefully not) my new halfshafts and brakes in right. Jay

I think its time my XT got its feet wet (or dirty). What class would a 86 Turbo XT 2wd, with an N/A engine, no muffler and a cone air filter run? Production? Im definately going to be there...

www.ozified.com

WJM: Ive been following your EA82 suspension posts for a while, and finally decided to speak up. My XT is a fairly good handler stock, but when funds allow, ill be doing the same suspension mods you have done (provided they work). I cant wait to see the test results. side note: what do you guys think an XT-T 2wd 5spd weighs?

WOW, just wow. What kind of demented person would ever do that . Is there a video of that?

I think i might try and get a day off, Get my cousins 350 powered 'Yota up there. If I had a 4x soob I would definately try and make it, just to show everyone whats up . Brandon might try it, doubt it though. Jay

290k on the original EA81 the previous owner trashed. 7k on a well taken care of rebuild Jay

Because of People like Qman, Zapar, Mudrat, Turbone, Subarubrat, SubaruJunkie, GeneralDisorder, and even Milesfox, plus countless others. When i got my first Subie, back in Dec. I was a narrow-minded kid. I wanted a Chevy, and it had to have a V8. I was thinking i could drive this free car and build my camaro up (HS popularity things - you know) and then i saw this page. I browsed to see what people were doing to their old POS subes. Then I saw pics of Ken's Brat, then Zap's Hatch, then etc etc etc. I was hooked. I sold my camaro and got another sube. My cousin slid my wagon into a curb while snow driftin, and bent the rear control arm horribly. I thought it was going to cost an arm and a leg. Surprise surprise! only $65 for a used control arm, with axle, and good brakes! Sube parts were Cheap!!! So i got another sube. LOL and its been going on from there. Ive met Ken, Eric, and Rob, and they are some very nice people, and very encouraging as well (big tires anyone?? ). This place, the cars (or trucks!) and the people, make it all worth it. Jay Side note: Ive made more aquaintances talking about subarus, and what ive learned than i ever could have with a POS V8 camaro. I have people come up to me and my friends all the time asking Whos sube is that, or tellin us that we will never be cooler than there Chevy, while the Jeep girls at our school ask us when were going to go wheelin, all the time. LOL.

Bon Voyage Jared, Stay safe and sound so i can meet you when you come back. Things will be very different, and i hope to participate in the "big rig challenge" (tcase lift) . Look forward to wheeling with you. Semper Fi! Jay

Im going to seconds GD's opinion. I got US Wheel 70 series, with 28.5x8.5 Interco Swampers on my hatch, and they just look beautiful. New wheels and big beefy tires are just a sight to see . Plus, at $25 a rim, for new rims, you cant go wrong. Jay

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If i put an EA82 5spd D/R in my hatch, what type of Driveshaft do I use? Do i still have to lengthen it or would a factory EA81 Shaft fit? Jay

No Club Affiliations as of yet , Three Subaru's prior to my 1986 "Parts" Hatch . 28x8.5 TSL Swampers on 14" Steel Spoked Rims, Custom 3.5" Lift, Slantback Canvas Top, Welded 3.9 Rear. Most likely a Weberized EA81 with 5spd D/R. Ill do this for Brandon since hes rarely able to get on the board. 84 GL Hatch No Affiliations, 3.5" lift, 28x8.5 TSL Swampers on 14" Steel Pugs, Weberized EA81, 5spd D/R, Welded Diff, Dual Batteries.

Makes me wanna take a trip up to Ken's just to see whats going on. Sheesh, I was up at Rob's Tuesday and if we didnt try to rush home, We (Brandon and me) were actually going to stop by Ken's. Im kicking my rear for that .