Rooinater

you haven't been on many other offroad boards have you uberoo? i would take most comments with a grain of salt. if you look at the picture of the guys truck, pretty well a concrete cowboy. you'll also notice that zaps pictures seemed to kill the banter... and from there, it has been silenced... they are similar to here, in the way that you guys accept other vehicles other than subaru. a small amount of people do accept, but a lot of members seem to be prejudice towards toyotas, jeeps and such. usually it is the same way toward subarus on other boards. some people accept a change while the others stay raccist towards other vehicles and complain about change.

ok at best, for the street. Now for offroad use, unless you like being stuck... :-\ they suck...

http://www.4wheelparts.com/PPT3869TS105X10514X1051412.aspx it's an extra 30 bucks a tire over what your willing to spend and you won't be sorry by any means. the majority of the time it is best and spend the extra couple bucks to get something you can depend on. but the goodyears aren't bad, my dad uses them for real light offroading, and i've accidently played at reiter before with them. overall not bad, but i'd be careful around rocks and airing down. otherwise the other one that eric pointed out should suffice. but in the long run you are way better off saving the extra couple bucks and getting a good tire, you'll be happier with the choice in the long run. compromising only to replace, is not a good idea and is more costly in the end.

yet, you posted some. i thought about posting a link but got carried away with homework... darn college

they have been flooded... posted a lot of action shots.

got pics of arizona... where to post?

This run is pushed back till at least febuary. I'm still slowly getting everything back together. Do to the fact that the Department of Defense and the Veteran's Administration has not fixed the payments for my GI Bill or my Marine Corp College Fund, it has put me extremely behind on my day to day bills. I can't even afford the gas or some of the smaller parts to finish the car. Hopefully by feburary they will have it fixed... eventhough they said it would be fixed by january...

your following a 4wd with a bike? that's not much fun. bikes need tight trails at high speeds.

the sauk river is gorgeous. if you were to take the mount loop highway portion, it used to be even more scenic. i hope they cut down a lot of the brush on the side of the roadway along the river... it used to be a lot more open and easier to see the gorgeous river below. the mt loop highway portion is from darrington to barlow pass.

mud lake at a shallower depth than now... very tame about everything "harder" is avoidable... i want to run evan's, reiter and walker this winter but i want to be sure the rest of the car is in top running shape first.

yeah it's fairly tame but it's best conditions are mid winter. tahuya is 25 - 30 minutes from my house. so if something goes wrong it's a a quick trip to drag the car home. it's a shakedown run to make sure the bugs are out and ready to rock and roll elsewhere. i'd rather have a problem on a small run and get the bugs out before i take it to reiter and evans. i know i'll have a risk of breaking a stub shaft, that's the reality of all the gearing... then i can post the for sale signs and advertise while i drive! :cool: then to get the rest of the suspension parts for the toyota. my christmas list consisted of arco gas cards, so i should have some gas money! if all goes well and i can get it all going well, i'll be headed to evan's next, then reiter and july to naches for a campout if i haven't sold her yet. list of things to do, change rear diff (funny whirring noise was 2 missing ring gear teeth.) install diff breathers and change diff oil seal disty clean engine bay install pwr steering pump replace front cv (lifetime warranty) install new tires header wrap exhaust weld something minor recheck ball joints

check your cv's and bolts for the suspension. should be fine without low range and a lift, might have a little trouble if you try a harder line. but the main paths shouldn't be too much of a problem. time for a d/r?

i'm reinstalling my differential breathers. i just run a cut antifreeze container to make a reverse scoop on the weber and make it draw it's air from the rear. i think it was ziggy or zap that showed me how to do that. i do need to reseal my disty too... nothing hard, just some rtv. they've expanded the lower 4x4 section since then. hell the place has changed alot from five years ago alone. the upper loop is closed, goat ranch road is no longer a through road, washed out at two creeks a few years ago and the dnr shut it down... i'm mainly focusing on exploring the 4x4 trail system and a shake down run of the car. i've done a lot of riding there, just not a lot of wheeling.

present situation is tahuya is closed due to that last storm, but by the time we go it should be open again. the closure is mainly because of all the motorcycle and atv trail's bridges being wiped out and washed down stream. along with other bike and atv trail damage. little to no damage on the 4x4 trails are present. but the 4x4 trails got reclosed after this weekend, because the bikes were staging at the 4x4 trailhead (no parking but along the road). all other trail heads are closed, and the 4x4 trail head is temporarly closed until it is posted no atvs or bikes or until they have atv or bike trails reopened. if it is still closed by early january, the trip will be either to reiter or evan's creek. if that is the case a lift, mud terrains and a welded rear will be required to run the trails.

some pictures of tahuya, so you got an idea what it looks like. most obstacles are avoidable, or offshoots. an offshoot hill, one of the harder obstacles.... easy... some other people's pictures of the place... Mud Lake this last weekend... come one, come all!

****Update last post**** early january i want to have the car up for a test day at tahuya. anyone in for a trip? subaru requirements, rear traction device (welded if stock height, lsd if lifted and m/t's), aggressive tires required. lift is strongly reccomended, but if you have the above, you should be fine. preferably set up your cars for crossing water puddles. cause it's probably a lot deeper out there right now and supposedly just got erroded a lot with the last storm. but overall tahuya is fairly easy. i got about every part to fix the subaru, it's just a matter of time to put it back together and go wheel. now that i'm on winter break i have nothing but time and am planning on getting her wheeling. Who's in? detailed map of the 4x4 trails system. http://home.comcast.net/~quadrapaws/

your frame is the grey area rob. you have that subframe, which technically leaves your body lift at 4".... i don't worry about it. unless your going to evan's creek, they randomly check. it's just the bumper height that both of are cars are out of regs. as for the fender flares... it used to be 1.5" allowed to stick out. but they changed that to none. generally though, if you put some big old mud flaps on they can't tell. most people that i've heard of getting pulled over for it, initially were pulled over for mud flaps, then cited for the fender flares.

1/4 inch plate the base of the control arm. cut and sleeve the strut bar with 1/4" thick tube, and you'll never bend another. i've dragged that combination across all sorts of rocks and bumped into all sorts of stuff in arizona. still haven't bent another one. the strut arms and ctl arms bend easy, welcome to wheeling a soob.

i don't jump my car, i wheel it to it's limits. realistically there are not enough gains by going to 31's with stock gears, there are more losses than gains. even with 27" tires it pretty much eliminates the effectivity of low range. not to mention the stress on the strut tops if you accidently get air. i've torn a few of them. the weight of the heavy tires over time and heavy use will slowly tear the strut tops and seperates the strut. limiting straps will greatly help that. but for every mod there is at least one other in order for it to work properly. if you really want the 31's you'll lose all gearing, a clutch or two and finally become a concrete cowboy and running the easy trails because you don't have the gearing, the clutch or anything else that makes a wheeler capable. driving experience and skill makes everything. if you take a good driver, say ken or eric and give them a barely built rig and a person with no experience with a really built rig, 9 times out of 10 the experienced driver will out wheel the inexperienced. they can pick lines and find a way up and over an obstacle that the inexperienced never will... as eric has said, he takes the knife to a gun fight, and i still see him showing people up.

so move closer...

it's was great being able to hang out with you guys again! and the first one i've actually been able to make!

interesting, i've never had my idle get higher at higher elevations... easier to stall and power loss, but never a weird idle...

the tire size gain really isn't worth it. unless you put another case in, so that you have the gearing to turn the tires and not smoke the clutch. 27" tires, welded rear-end and 4/3" lift and you'll be fine for what subaru's are good for wheeling. anything more, alot more mods should start going in. unless your one of those concrete cowboys that need the look of a big vehicle and not actually use it.

true 31" tires still rub on my 8" lifted ea81. and i've taken a 15 lb sledge to the fenders. if your going that big, move the front crossmember forward. ken did that to his brat and fixed the rubbing issue with a 10" lifted brat... 27" ssr's are the perfect weapon of choice for a 4/3" lifted subaru.