Humble Nuto 53

really odd that you could turn the drivers side cam by hand. should be like you describe the passenger side. theres lots of spring tension to overcome and those lobes are steep. something is odd in the drivers side imho

for all the eh, fooling around, replace the tank. by the time you get done patching that crusty mess together, and waiting for that inevitable moment.... you could just pull your tank, hit the yard, and be relatively sure its not going to fail at the worst moment.

1/2" drive black impact sockets and a longer pipe. might as well buy a few drill bits too to remove the busted bolts. if you have a proper acetylene/oxy torch, it is THE miracle tool. propane and mapp gas

cant believe my memory has gotten so sketchy... upsideown tierod ends, and dished cam pulleys ZZZZZZZZ wish i had some excuse

called an "easy-out" you might want to just use a hacksaw to pop the heads off those bolts. might scratch the cam cog a bit but who cares. at least then you will have some room to maneuver and can see when youre drilling. frequently if you start with a small drill bit, then go up a size, then up a size... you can get the bolt to either break loose, or disintegrate. i just went through this when i took the fenders off the 86 hatch, broke a few undercarriage bolts, and drilled them out. didnt even have to chase the threads. junkyard cams is a good alternative too

no press needed, just a hammer and a punch/chisel/drift the axel will come out if you loosen the axel nut, back the nut off just enough to protect the threads on the axel, and whack it with a BFH. if youre a "good" mechanic, you will also use a block of wood to protect the nut. one or two swings and it will flop around in there. inside joint has a spring-pin about 3mm in diameter, you will need a proper punch for that one. one side of the inner joint has a dimple, thats the side to put the pin back in on. bearings can be driven out with just about anything, broken screwdriver, chisel... putting them back in should be done with something soft like a large diameter brass drift. seat it in there then tap round and round till its bottomed. same with the seals... subes dont need too much in the way of "shop" tools...

nothing like a job well done... what method did you use to pull the glass in the junkyard? its near 90 out there today, im gonna go out and eurethane the bottom corners, and the bottom strip on... have to trim the tab off the bottom strip and hope the eure holds it i completely filled the channel after i set the glass.

i bought ball joints at bumper to bumper and not had problem... first pair were 12.00 each three years later i think they were 18.00

did you get this resolved? mr.followup, paging mr.followup

i just re seated the windshield in my 86 3door. used two tubes of 3M eurethane. no heating needed. no primer needed. cleaned the channel with a bronze scraper, used MEK, then brake cleaner to remove any residual gooey. laid a half inch bead in the middle of the channel all the way around, and assistant and i laid the glass in. gave it a gentle push here and there, assistant watching for interior ooze. went back and filled the gaps between the body and the glass till it was even. then inserted the old black plastic trim (somehow i misplaced the bottom corners, and bottom strip, still havent found it, but found replacement at junkyard) was very artful along bottom edge and bottom corners and filled level with glass, due to missing trim, as mentioned. cost was 12.99 each tube. used regular caulking gun, and cut the nozzle about 3/4 inch from tip, could probably cut a bigger hole in the nozzle and used less hand to pump that goop out. also it was a warm day when i did this. the eurethane cures up quite hard, i wouldnt want to have to cut this window out myself make sure you have assistant to help handle glass, make a test run together so you can center the glass fairly accurately first time (there is lots of time to tweak however) and keep a roll of paper towels handy in case you over goop, or have internal ooze. its a pretty easy job, once the old glass is out. wish i could have gotten replacement glass, mine is 200,000 and heavily pitted. you west coast guys have it sooo nice with the moderate weather, great woodsy trails and cheap plentiful subes.....

my reed valve broke which melted the plastic and i only noticed cause the idle went up due to melted gunk on the butterfly. so once i chiseled that out i removed all the pollution junk. pulled the intake manifold and only left a line to the brake booster and one to the distributor. unscrewed the tube, sawed it off, just the other side of the threads, stuck a nickle down in the recess, and screwed it back together. worked well. arch is still driving it like that i think.

spiffy tool, thanks

does the ea81 have a hole at the bottom of the pillar for the wire to enter the passenger compartment?

32 DOH's i had to go crawl under and look just to be sure that wasnt some photoshop imposter.... dang. well, morgan if arch doesnt come give you a hand PM me and i will (although what little credibility i may have had...)

baw jerndt? i thought we were talkin tie rod end (outer) lol, and even so, the taper is inserted from the top could be me reading all slanty like though

i would swear by my eproctophilia that youre coming at it upside-down. take a piece of paper groc bag, and get your filthy finger and make an impression of the top and bottom holes, and you will seeeeee the light, brother. the top hole will be bigger than ya figure, and the lower will be lesser, lester.

im gonna guess its a vacuum leak. fairy typical symptoms if its not a cracked hose somewhere, it might be the brake booster going bad one method to find vacuum leak is use carb or brake cleaner (highly flammable) and shoot little squirts on the hoses one by one.... when your idle jumps up you've found the leak

ewwwwwww found the secret, no parts were missing, just a flimsy design mounted on soft sheet metal... i dont need any parts, im going to see about an aftermarket with a larger internal base, or make some large thick plastic washer... thanks for the offer, and sorry for the half baked question

86 hatch. antenna on passenger fender... just kinda rolling around loose. no rubber bushing where the wire enters the body, so the rain was following the wire into the doorsill, and i got a tiny bit of rust, but not structural (whew). mmm fibreglas... so, what is supposed to hold the antenna to the fender? im looking for the underside ganglia, or? anyone have an antenna they want to sell or is aftermarket the cheapest solution?

if i read this right, the tie rod sits ON TOP of the casting.... the nut is on the bottom just thought somehow i read you tried the opposite

well commited you be then: it does unbolt. the entire assembly. somewhere in this mess i have photos someone else posted of the thing but im days behind finding them. it is just as easy as unbolting unbolting and installing. there are going to be snags im sure. brake lines dont need to be opened as far as i know. you can probably let the axels hang from the differential, it all depends on rust and if you can get yours off without breaking any bolts. in the junkyard you dont care if you break most of the actual bolts unless they are studs... a welded part of the assembly... i prefer U-pull yards, you get to learn what not to do on *their* stuff before you attempt your own. i would definitely start on your own car though and see if you can successfully (sp?) remove the broken part and then you will know if you want to go lay on your back in some junkyard.

ewww, the rear suspension tube? not heard of that coming apart before. would have figured the mounts would have rusted and collapsed into the body before that fat pipe failed... well theres tons of em in the junkyard, only a few bolts to remove it. but i still suspect you have terminal rust in other areas if that tube failed. you need an experienced and critical eye to look at your situation before you go invest any more money on this particular car in my humble opinion

hmmmm, you have the steering rack going across from wheel to wheel...fat in the middle rubber accordion boots on the ends then skinny rods to the wheels sube doesnt have any round frame components only other parts i can think of would be the drive axels, one on each side and the suspension struts, but they stand up not lay across...

i intentionally shimmed it up an inch, cause i hate sitting in a hole.. i still have most of a fist between the bald spot and the roof, im 5' 10" actual seat height was about same as stock best i can tell, then again my seat was all broken down too, thats why i replaced it

i re seated the windscreen in my 86 3dr cpe... used 1.5 tubes of 3M urethane @ 12.99 each. one tube would hold the glass in, but then you would be left with a gap around most of the windscreen. thats where the second tube was applied, after the glass was seated and mildly squished to assure positive seating, i went around and filled the gaps and leveled the whole mess so the trim would sit smooth and level the only thing that holds the trim pieces on is the urethane. i destroyed my longer trim parts trying to remove them, but got lucky and found a wagon in the yard that had all the pieces AND they all came off without destruction.