carfreak85

Short answer, no...

Just want to know if anyone has any other opinions...

pics?

Paul rocks!

Let me get the front suspension from that car and the power steering stuff, mirrors and guage cluster too. If you don't need the rear torsion bar, I'll take that too. It is lower and stiffer, not nearly as good as the regular 4WD torsion bar. I'll be home next weekend, so I can pick the stuff then. PM me and we can talk about pulling this stuff.

Crawl underneath and check, rear diff will say LSD.

Damn, thats pretty sweet! Ok, now for the clincher on the perfect XT6, does it have an lsd rear?

Check underneath for rust!

If its the front, unbolt the inner joint of the lower control arm. If its the rear, unbolt the diff from the chassis so you can drop it down.

I'm thinking of getting mine coated so I won't need to use wrap. I've heard that exhaust wrap will rust your exhaust. I'm planning to take my car in snow, water, mud and I don't want to rust my new exhaust.

Well, EA82 fuel injectors are the same as EA81T, which is what I'm concerned about. So what I would do is go around in the junkyard and take a bunch of fuel injectors and test them on an EA82. I know that someone is working on fuel rails to fit non sube injectors on our engines.

None of us are going to need to do mod our fuel systems after putting on the exhausts. Our stock systems have enough wiggle room to compesate for the extra airflow by them selves.

If your car is non turbo, take those turbo cams out because they aren't doing anything but hurting your car. Turbo cams are set up for turbo cars and have too long of a duration for a normally asperated engine.

Do you have any pictures of it yet?

Time for a new brat me thinks!

The shroud for the mechanical fan is basically useless. It is about half an inch deep for the radiator and is only on top of the fan. I wouldn't sweat it.

Not much. You might check to see what they're going for on ebay.

Get me a pic of those fenders.

My friend has a 93 legacy that after driving for about 20 minutes has the e-brake and battery warning lights come on. She says that after 20 min they start flashing and then will stay lit until she turns the car off. The car has 120,000=+ miles. Can anyone help her?

Heres what I do when I get a new car and need to test it: Replace/ change all tune up parts (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, oil/filter, air filter, fuel filter) as well as a radiator flush, change trans and rear diff fluid and put in known good gas. For my turbo wagon, I just had it tested and if passed with no problems, so I did't have to fool around with it too much. I would replace all the under hood hoses to make sure you don't have a vacuum leak. Get a cat for that sucker! If the systems interchange, I can let you borrow the one off my wagon for testing. I'll be back in town this weekend or next so if you still have my number, you can come over and check out my wagon.

Well, I do have access to unlimited amounts of carbon fiber and fiberglass. These would be projects for school, but if I made two I could keep one for class and made a few for you gen 1 guys. Caboobaroo, if you get your dam up here, I can try to make a copy. PM me if you're interested.

If you have an airdam for the brat, get some pics with that on. It might look awesome. If you don't like them, don't vut them up, save them since that is the only known set of flares we have. Maybe get a bunch of duplicates made, or I'm serious here, send the originals up to me and when I have time at school I can make some duplicates. As long as the originals remain unmolested.

If I have the time, I'd like to get down there to play with you guys.

No special tools are avalible from the dealer as far as I know.

Will not slide right on. You'd probably need to to a lot of custom work for them to fit without swaping the whole front suspension plus all the custom fabbing that would require.