carfreak85

I don't even notice mine unless I'm trying to park on an incline.

Just doing the math you have a better power to weight ratio. That being said, your old man's car is probably built for the 1320, hard launches all day, 540hp all day. Despite that, I think you can beat him. You will NOT beat him off the line, sadly, if you want your trans to stay healthy, but even if you can stay close, you should pass him by the timing lights. Just one question though, why did you install a starter button?!?

Does anyone have any nice, unrusted rocker panels to fit a gen 1 brat? Just found a phatty rust hole that will need patching at some point.

I don't live in Oregon, but I'll email your reps to keep this garbage out of Wa's legislature. For those who are interested in the political side of things, signing up for the SEMA Action Network will get you a monthly email that will alert you to this type of thing.

True, but I can estimate roughly how many original EA81Ts there are v. all other USDM EA81s based on how long the EA81 was imported here (about 9 years, in the case of the hatchback v. 1.5 years for the turbos), and it isn't a very large percentage... If you don't want to spend more than $1,500 or $2,000 on an EA81T that's your prerogative and I've got no problem with it. You can probably find a really good one for that price that will fulfill all your boosted EA81 fantisies. On the other hand, you certainly won't be getting my wagon for that price. Ratty ones are super cheap, check out some of the rusty east coast ones that occationally pop up on eBay, we've got no argument there... More cherry examples are still a relative unknown quantity. The nicer cars just don't go up for sale often, and as these cars are still near the bottom of their depreciation curve, there is still room for their value to grow, weather or not they do, only time will tell.

Only valid residents of Europe can win the laptop, but I took the survey anyway.

I'm in.

Light blue, purple and yellow paint spots were on the springs I pulled from an RX.

So who wants to start making replicas of that manifold for us?

For the front diff, a Phantom Grip will be the cheapest route short of welding the diff. Other options exist, but at a much greater cost. From what I've heard about PGs, under repeated drag style abuse, the PG will actually start wearing the diff gears which will produce metal debris, which isn't really that good for transmissions. I've never run one myself, but have done some research on the subject.

Very cool! I've always wanted a Vanagon.

Hey, hey, hey, lol! I seen it first!! I've got a Turbo coupe begging for a GL-10 "High Luxury" interior.

I kind of like the tour of the Northwest we've been enjoying the last few years. Why not continue the trend?

AWESOME... I noticed a hood scoop in your video, but you have a front mount. What's up with that? I really like your front mount solution, just what I plan on for my XTT, when I get one that is.

This is your car? Do you have any more pictures of your engine swap?

Make me an offer on the stereo. I actually think I have it in a box already, just need to visit my parent's house to grab it. If possible, I would suggest looking for a clean donor rocker panel in the JY and cutting out the bent pieces, replacing the entire damaged area. I've yet to do this myself, so it is purely speculation on my part. The digi-dash bridge I HAVE crossed, so if you have any questions there I'd be more than happy to help.

Looks like you've found the extended family of my white hatch.

Do you have pics of your mounting setup? I'm trying to figure something out for my IC, but would like to see what others have cooked up before I dive in.

Good looking score! If you decide not to fix it or whatever, there are a few parts I'd like for my T-Hardtop (Seats, door panels, etc). I also have a digital radio like the one your hardtop has, if you're still interested.

You did sit the two springs, 2wd and turbo, side by side before installing them, right? These cars and parts are old and unique enough that any mods need to be done on a car-by-car basis to ensure consistent results. As for cutting the springs; do 1/4 to 1/2 a coil at a time. OR you could just find the equation used to determine spring rates, calculate the old rates, subtract the number of coils you plan on cutting out. Recalculate the spring rates and make sure they are close enough to run comfortably. Screw it, here you go: http://www.engineersedge.com/spring_comp_calc.htm

I'm listening...

There isn't going to be much clearance for wide tires on the rear end of the gen 1s. Four Wheeler back in '76 found that the B78x13 Eldorado tires they fitted on their lifted gen 1 wagon would get stuck in the fender wells, keeping the rear suspension from drooping. I know that 185/70/13s fit a gen 1 stage 1 4WD and a gen 1 BRAT without rubbing at stock height. Beyond that, I think it will be trial and error as to fitting larger tires.

His car is 2WD, so no "Posture adjustment" on his struts.

Very trick! I like what I see coming out of your workshop, its always high quality.

So you must have won the ebay auction for those three Jackman's huh?