carfreak85

I like the roundies a lot. Gives the EA81 a unique look, but depending on the body style EA81, I don't think any of the headlight set-ups look bad. I like my quad lights because if a rock knocks one out, it wont necessarily take out the adjacent lamp. But like I said, looks great. Are those aftermarket lenses or OEMs? Look aftermarket. REALLY like that bumper too. Might have to copy it, lol.

Got you waiting with bated breath though, don't I?

I had the exhaust made originally with the stock downpipe. Then I got a 3" downpipe from BoostedBalls and I was too cheap/lazy to buy a matching 3" muffler.

Get one of these from me when I start reproducing them.

This guy knows his stuff, so listen to him. I run a header with 1.5" primaries to a 1.75" up pipe and a 3" downpipe to a 2.5" exhaust and muffler on my EA81T and it works great. That same system on my N/A hatch would be suicide. Don't go any larger than 2.25" for your secondary pipe, not sure about the primaries on an N/A EA81.

Another reason for that could be that your car is 2WD, and low to begin with. I would agree that driving around will help settle the struts and springs. What have you done about stiffening up the rear? Also, cutting those front springs by .5 or 1 coil is my next project, albeit, starting with RX springs.

Both, one on two different cars, notice the blue and tan dashboards.

The V6 in Saturn's suv, that's a Honda.

Ahhh, wish I had seen this earlier. I too have ditched the factory front EA81 speakers for something nicer. Twice actually, with both speaker sizes in question. In both cases, I didn't want to cut corners and risk some annoying vibration after everything was buttoned back up. The 4x6"s sound better, they actually have a little bump where as the 3" speakers are just for mids and highs. I had to redrill the new speaker's chassis for the stock bolt spacing (tip, use the factory speaker's mounting holes as a guide to drill holes in the new speaker).

Cool. Glad that at least one other person on here dumps their EA81 rather than lifting it. Might want to use a more precise tool for measuring thicknesses. The difference between bars was tiny in any case, just enough to make it noticable while driving.

What a freakish and sad day for Subie fans around the globe. From what I've read about the withdrawl, there were a couple of reasons for the pull-out. First was the economy. They, along with pretty much all auto manufacturs, are expecting to lose sales in the short-term. This is one way to avoid falling into debt, since hardly anybody ever gets rich from auto-racing. I forgot the exact quote, but the Fuji-employee who announced the withdrawl said that Subaru had met its exposure targets from racing in the WRC. It seems that enough people know about the beauty of all-wheel drive that they don't need to "prove" it anymore. I'm just sad that I won't see any flying, blue, boxer-powered, factory-backed rally machines anymore...

My signature Enkeis weigh about 8lbs apiece.

I'm interested in YOUR Enkeis! Want to trade 6 13x5.5" enkeis for your 4 14x6" wheels? :cool:

I had no idea they were known for spinning rod bearings. Do you have a link to somewhere where I can read more about this phenomenon?

I need to find a replacement for one of those C-clips. I was just driving along minding my own business (about a year ago) when my car makes this terrible grinding noise. I thought that my 4WD transfer gear had finally gone out (remember I've been running RWD). Turned out that the differential stub shaft had worked its way out of the diff.

Dealer master tech took a ride with me a few months ago... Rod knock. We're just waiting until the engine lets go, or we get in a good enough place financially to take care of it.

+1. Well put Sir. If all four lock up on ice, the ABS computer should momentarily release brake pressure to all four corners, then do the pulsing thing. But in the defense of the manufacturers, how much traction do you really have on sheet ice?

Small update, we tried putting the 1400 in but found that we could not get the engine to turn over by hand.... Oh well. Looks like the 1600 is next to get dropped in.

Final conformation on the problem I was having: The plastic connector for the air temperature sensor had melted on the down pipe, shorting the relay. Sweet... Now I have a bunch of spare ATS relays for no reason.

Very late update; I installed the washers behind the latch mechanism as suggested, but that only partially solved the problem. I still get some weeping from the rear side windows on my hatch.

Bump for new users. My new favorite mod is the Baja car cover my BRAT now has.

Got a specific part number for that wagon/beetle window seal?

Addco?

As per my 1984 FSM: Non-turbo is 20mm or 0.79 inches Turbo is 22mm or 0.87 inches

Wait a second, how do you get only a 4HP difference? 84-65=19HP Check your maths again. 84HP on big-valve EA81s, 65HP on my 1980 1.6 BRAT.