carfreak85

That means it is probably not the same thread. I forget the names, but there are two threads that are very close and will thread together, but they aren't the same. Maybe someone else knows.

Nice job Eric!! Send my best to the rest of your family!

I didn't take the time to see if anyone else suggested this yet. I had the exact same problem. I could get power until I tried starting the car, then I would loose everything. Turned out to be a corroded positive battery terminal/wire. Check that before tearing your dash apart.

Now for the real question, do I go for the 185 or the 205.....

I still have my front bar on my hatch, but I don't wheel it often enough to notice the difference when I do go offroad. I think I will take it off now that I have RX front springs on my hatch.... WAY TOO STIFF. I've recently had the inside front wheel pogo'ing on rough, up-hill corners, and it is a real buzz kill.

I've done a few things in my own quest for "handling." I have an XT6 rear anti-roll bar and DIY mounts that have yet to be installed. If you want to make your own mounts, get some 1" square tubing and cut it into 2 seperate 3" lengths. Then cut it down the middle lengthwise, giving you four U-shaped brackets. If you saved the EA82T brakets and bushings, it is an easy job to drill a hole for the nut/bolt combo and a slot for the... Better yet, here are a few pics: Here is where the brackets need to be welded on your semi-trailing arms: Like I said, I haven't done the install yet, but the pictures were e-mailed to me by a fellow board memeber who had. As for the front anti-roll bar, try to grab one from an EA81 equipped with and automatic transmission, or a turbocharger, or both. If it is a turbo, the front springs will lower it a little and are a tad stiffer too. Or you can source a front or rear bar from Addco. They will even give you a deal if you order both, and they pop up on ebay from time to time. About $150 each if I remember correctly. 2WD front struts have a spring perch that is mounted lower on the strut housing, which will lower you front end another small amount and at the same time increase your front suspension travel. Reclock the rear torsion bars to lower the rear end. This will also have the effect of making the rear suspension slightly stiffer. Be aware that you will probably have to trim your rear bump stops if you reclock the rear torsion bar. I only rotated the bar one tooth, and I was nearly resting on the bump stops. I have done all this, minus the rear bar to my EA81 turbo wagon, and it is pretty entertaining to drive quickly. Much better than it was origionally, and would be even better with some additional negative camber, but as it sits, I'm around 0* at the front which is unheard of for an early Subaru. Good luck with your quest for handling!

I will never own a FWD subaru, if I can help it. 4/AWD

The previous owner of my new brat said that with the original Hitachi carb, he would get 30+ MPG on the highway. After installing a weber carb, the mileage dropped off 5-7 MPG, but was easier to drive. This was going between Seattle and Pullman, Wash. After installing a tonneau cover, he gained 1-3 MPG on average. I'll have to see what kind of mileage I can squeak out of it once it re-gains road worthyness.

Bump. Whats the word good people?

Nothing yet. My digi dash is on its last legs so the car is getting to rest until I can figure it out. Mucho mods going on when it's done though!

Got any leads on the VW stuff? I've been searching the web and haven't found much so far.

I don't know if this has been covered before, but I just pulled the gauge cluster out of my '85 hatch and noticed a difference from the standard SPFI conversion outline. My ECS lamp is there and so is the speed sensor. However, there are two extra wires coming from the speed sensor. One wire is light blue and the other is white, both meeting in a blue, two pole connector. What does this mean, and how do I work around it? Also, my car does not have cruise control, but does have a Hitachi carb with an o2 sensor (I'm pretty sure).

The PO of my car botched the stereo install on my car. The "memory" wire has been tapped into a circuit that is hot in run only, so I lose all my presets when I kill the car. I didn't care enough to change it, until my bonehead friend pulled my stereo to look at the wiring. Now that it's out in the open, I want to set things right. Does anyone know which wires to tap into when properly installing a modern stereo in an EA81? P.S. I already ran new wiring to the aftermarket speakers I installed a few years ago.

Bump-a-ru...

#1: I wonder how much $$,$$$ went into that motor. #2: I wonder how long it will last at that power level. #3: I want... #4: Some of those comments made sense. By ice bagging it and spraying water, those numbers mean nothing except that the car is a dyno queen. Daily Drivers FTW!!!

I got my one piece made at Drivelines NW, in SoDo Seattle. Cost about $200 and looks a lot uglier after being in service for so long. I would go with the one piece driveshaft. It's just money anyway, and you won't be worried about having a ghetto-fabbed driveshaft bearing mount fail at 70+mph on the highway or in the middle of the largest mud pit at your local trail. Cheap insurance if you ask me, and since you did (hahaha) the shop Pooparu got his done at sounds like a screaming deal; go there! Lastly, I forget the exact number, but if you search for threads about 5 speed swaps, you will find the exact length you need to have the shaft lengthened by, something like 5 1/4". I don't remember exactly.

I have been doing some recent footwork in the local PAP looking for parts. I am working on swaping from my original 4WD console to a 2WD console, the latter having the pockets we all desire. So far, you will need the two brackets that hold the 2WD piece in. One on the transmission tunnel, two screws are removed. The second can only be replaced by first removing the HVAC control cover. Once exposed, four small screws hold it in place. I have not yet put all these new goodies into my donor car, but one thing worries me. The shifter seemed very close to the pocket/stereo area. This might have been affected by the presence of 4WD console bracketry. In the mean time, my dash looks like this:

Who has built custom fuel rails for their EA81T or EA82T? I need to install a ARRFPR and fuel pressure gauge and it has been suggested that I start from scratch. What parts do I need? Does anyone have a shopping list of the stuff I need? Pictures?

So I did some comparisons between the two harnesses I have. Turns out that they ARE different. What I've decided to do is pull the dash and just throw the analog stuff in the car and go from there. Anyone else have any progress to report?

*Sits on fence waiting for more info about flushing LSDs.*

Could the 3.7 parts be replaced by 3.9 parts? What about swapping the low range around?

Cutting the caps off fuel injectors will wreak havoc on the spray patterns and fuel atomization. I would save up for the engineered aftermarket injectors if you actually need anything bigger than the STi OEM units.

Still waiting for an answer one way or another...

Check out post #18 in this thread: http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=89482&page=2

This is the week... After reading Connie's post about the interal VR being out of production, I have decided to test the waters of the analog swap. I have two analog gauge clusters and one complete analog dash harness. It sounds like the hardest part of the swap is joining a digidash harness to an analog dash. My question is this: To those who have attempted this before, can I replace my digital dash harness with the analog harness? Would the dash be plug and play after that? I supose everyone will tell me to be the guinea pig, but I would like to hear some opinions before my car becomes a potential basket case and the whole dash gets trashed...