carfreak85

What a info hog!! Share the wealth, whats the point of keeping it secret? Or just want to be :cool:?

OK, I just updated myself on ScottinBellingham's EJ22 disty/carb conversion. I want this engine in one of our Gen 1s (Just got an '80 Brat). Has anyone test fitted an EJ22 in a Gen 1 engine bay? I looked at some pics of Garner's old EA82T powered Brat and that engine barely kissed the chassis before he frenched it. If the EJ22 is narrower, is it same to assume that it would drop in?

If the EJ22 is more narrow than the EA82, then it looks like it might fit in the Gen 1 engine bay without mods. Hmmmmm.....

Boom! http://www.faberit.com.au/rxrally/Pics/RX_Docs/index.html Specifically: and: and finally:

I agree about the bad gas. Drain it out or dilute it a lot. Maybe run some Seafoam through the fuel system? No FSMs up here. I'll have to wait for the weekend for that information.

I'm pretty sure there are only supposed to be two relays on the strut tower. As for your injectors, grab an automotive stethiscope and listen to the injectors while the engine is cranking. These cars tend to have problems with transmissions (The govener gear), ignition parts (Inside the distributor), cracked heads and the occasional bad ECU. The latter would be my next bet for your wagon, followed by the disty. After class today I will try to look at my troubleshooting guide so we can figure this problem out.

Explain... I'd love to find another haunt!

Let me know how much your CD player skips and how easily it spits out discs. I mounted mine the same way and it skips pretty badly, and sometimes has trouble ejecting the disc all the way. I was wondering if the extreme angle of the slanted console was a factor.

Whatever, it was and is free and easy enough to use. Dave, I love Sport Compact Car magazine, but there is some incorrect information in that article. The low range they list if the N/A low range, that is the one fact that sticks out to me. Lets see some more articles! Especially from NZ or Oz.

YES! Look for rear shocks off a TJ Jeep Wrangler that came with the factory 2.5" lift kit. These are around 4" longer. I have a set of Rancho shocks on my hatchback and they are awesome! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=83980&highlight=rancho+shocks

ZAP will be selling a set of 14" basket weave Enkeis soon.

True, but in the big 4x4 mega test didn't the subaru come out on top?

Too bad there is an AutoX in Bremerton the same day. :-\

Added some more to "My Public Shoebox" album. Check out the SWEET concept car!

Not sure about the RX FT4WD box, but with the regular ones, you are supposed to be going in a straight line. I don't beleive this holds true for the RX's transmission.

I didn't get a chance to scan my FSMs, but the only schematics for the dashes were power and lighting circuits. If this would be helpful, I'll try to get them ASAP.

It's inside the transmission case.

14.7 psi/Bar, to be precise.

This link is to the new thread for scanned articles. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=720118#post720118

Just a preview: The rest can be seen here: http://community.webshots.com/album/64303792ZJcFUD?vhost=community&start=0 Link to previous thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71908&highlight=gift+usmb

Glad to hear it was a simple fix. Keep her running!

I will reroute it or reengineer it at some point, but that is not now. I had to replace it with the engine in the car with only the tools from those freebie emergency roadside kits, i.e. pliers, a cheap a$$ socket wrench and about 5 metric and standard sockets. Oh and a screw driver. That was the least fun I've ever had working on my car. I would try to find some hose insulation to put over it. There are a lot of companies making this stuff, basically any company that makes header wrap will probably have what is needed.

Did you disconnect the engine mounts?

1984 GL-10 Turbo-Traction wagon, which needs more performance, more handling abilities, and as of yesterday... sniffle, sniffle, whimper..... it needs a new digi-dash. But I still love her!!!

To all hatch owners out there, what do you do to keep your rear windows from leaking? The leak is towards the rear of the window and subsequently drips onto my rear speakers. I put in some used seals to replace the original ones following the instructions in my FSM, but that doesn't seem to have worked... AT ALL. I didn't use silicone since the FSM didn't call for it, and I won't resort to band-aid solutions. Should I just pony up and buy new OEM seals, or what? Does anyone else have this problem?