carfreak85

Tex, or anyone who has built their own fuel rails, do you have a shopping list of the parts I would need to get? I'd like to throw enough parts on the car that once I get all the systems tuned properly, I won't have to do any supporting mods after the thrash.

+1. I've always like this car!

Bump. Still want your "international" parts. Willing to trade USDM parts or cash!

Not sure about the crossmembers, but the EJ gearbox is going to be a tight squeeze. If I had the proper box I could fit it up to my '75 wagon and find out.

How much does the engine rock around when you get on it? I'm wondering if the clearence could be made leaving more original material than on yours. I'm not much of a fabricator, so as little as I have to do, the better.

Cool. I have two cars that both want that mod right now. I don't really feel like rebuilding front drum brakes when I know that the Brat parts will bolt on. Any other mods folks have done?

Recently picked up a spare EA81T long block that will slowly get rebuilt and put in one of my cars. Mild rebuild on this one, light port work, maybe some experimenting on the bottom end. I think I will copy some of the procedures outlined for the factory EA82 rally cars, see what kind of a difference they make. Basically a budget build. The engine this replaces will be a balls out version with 4 port heads and cryo treatment and some coatings on the internals. Not trying to build an engine for all out power, just to get power to where Subaru should have set it in 1984.

After spending more time with the noise, I think that it is at most RPMs, can't tell down low though. Any ideas? I'm thinking it might be a loose heat shield or something.

Are the Gen1/2/3 classes going to be lumped with engine-swapped cars like last year, or seperate like at WCSS8?

What is available for EA81 in the valvetrain department? I'm looking for springs, retainers and lighter pushrods.

+1

Thanks for all the replys. My Dad is an electical engineer by trade and said he would have no problem fixing the PCB. I was more curious about what folks think about the gauges failing at a different point. Does someone else have a blown digi dash that has blown in one of the two places outlined in this thread or in a different spot?

Over Memorial Day weekend I took my spare digi dash and stuck it in my wagon. No gauges. Pulled the sucker apart and found that it had burned out in a different location from where other's had. Any thoughts on this?

My flapper door MAF'ed turbo wagon has been running a K&N for over 30k miles with no problem and has a 1,000,000 mile warrenty. Can't beat that for $50. As for oil getting on the hot-wire MAF and killing it, give me a F'ing break. The ECU is designed to send a burst of voltage to the MAF on start-up AND shut-down to burn off any residue there may be on the sensor. If you REALLY slather your filter up, maybe there will be too much oil to burn off, but lets be realistic. A K&N is going to help your car, not hurt it.

I'd be in for a set of repro-decals for a 1975 and 1980.

Got pics/write up?

:banana:Five speed swap time!!:banana:

Bump for EA81T performance!

WOW!! Grover, pleased to meet you! Always nice to see a sick, clean hatch!

Can't really reproduce the sound while stationary, it seems that the noise is loudest under load. Also, the knock is not deep and hollow. It doesn't sound like rod knock that I've heard before.

http://www.wrc.com http://www.marketingpunk.com/2006/01/speed_channel_drops_the_world.html http://www.rallytorrents.com

My hood release is hard to operate. By hard, I mean that I have to pull with over 50lbs of force or more to pop it open. Can I adjust this? Where and how? Does anyone know where to lubricate the system? Heres hoping I don't bust the cable before this gets sorted out.

Hahahaha I was thinking the exact same thing!

How did the car run before you swapped manifolds?

Sweet looking wagon! You didn't happen to get that from Carter Subaru did you?