carfreak85

Very happy with mine as well, though I'm thinking about some HIDs. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74588&highlight=headlight

On an EA81 you have to enlarge the bolt cut outs to fit the larger bolts for the upper mount. The lower mount has a larger hole and a smaller factory bolt. I cut up some aluminum cans to make the shims. Three layers worked for me, but if anyone has had different results, please speak up.

If your Brat came with an automatic, just for reference, you wouldn't need to grind the bellhousing on the engine side. There is enought clearence for the torque converter to clear the larger, newer EA82 and ER27 flywheels. This also includes the EA81Ts and 4WD automatic transmissions. I'm not certain about 2WD three speeds, but it could be the same. I'm using an EA82 flywheel and I HAD to use shims for the larger bolt holes. Sounded like rod knock until we put those in. If you're having a shop do it, you could get a one piece driveshaft with zirk fittings! Might cost more than ususal to get one made though as Drivelines NW insisted they use metric tubing for mine. I've not tried it, but an aluminum can might work as an output shaft plug.

I knew there must have been a reason there was new paint on that car. Looked GOOOOOD too. Oh well.

I'm gonna swing by there tomorrow, thanks for the tip Ed! By the way, does anyone have the address for the Arlington P-A-P

Stupid double post. Mods, please delete!

Looks like the FPR will be a breeze to put on, but what about the gauge? Does your wagon have one Skip? Where did you tap for the sender? Should it be before the FPR or after?

Bump for advice...

Well I found this after I posted. Very interesting to say the least... http://www.subie.tv/index.php/video/new_old_impreza_and_evo_battle/

Can we get some additional, detailed pics please?!

Dude, 1990 is an OBDI or OBDZERO engine.

PSSSST... I did. I was paraphrasing their article.

Our local dealer has one now. I stopped by and checked it out and I've got to say, I'm not too impressed. Sure, its a great car that should sell well and will in the end make Subaru more money, but I still don't like it. Lets start with the interior. Leather? In a psudo-rally car? C'mon... Too many buttons too (I hate buttons on the steering wheel that aren't for the cruise control). The seats are a downgrade from the JDM Recaros. Everything else is great inside. Being over six feet tall, I like the rear seat leg room too. Si-Drive? Why are there two sport modes? Why isn't it just MORE sporty ALL THE TIME? Exterior: Fake vents for the front wheel well remind me of the ones on the rear of a mustang. Yeck. Four tips for an exhaust that all flows through one hole up stream (aka the turbo)? Why? More weight (ON A RALLY CAR!?!?!)? Looks? Certanly not to sound better. Dumb. The adjustable headlights seem to have a greater range of adjustment than our '07 does, which is good. 18" wheels? Why? Ride will suffer. The flares are sick though, especially when the light hits them just right. The front bumper and specifically the "aluminum" accents around the fog lights remind me of the taillights of a RX-8, yuck. Performance? Haven't driven one yet, but from what I read yesterday in C&D, it won't be any faster in an AutoX than our '07, maybe even slower... (softer susp. lack of low end grunt (I figured the new D-AVCS would cure this?) more weight, etc) Think if I pull up in our '07 pretending that I want to trade up they would let me drive the new one? :cool: That being said, I think I'm going to ignore this year's STI and hope they give us a Spec C or something similar next year. Fingers crossed...... Hell, for the BBS wheels and top trim, this Subaru is pushing $40k at $39, 640 or so. Sounds like the over-priced japanese sports cars of the early 90s have returned, and we all know what happened then. (For those who don't, people couldn't afford them and they were all killed on our shores).

Turned out to be the oil drain line from the turbo. It was too long and when installed, had a kink in it that blocked the flow of oil. Its now fixed and running perfectly!

Its the older style Jackson Racing ARRFPR, similar to this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jackson-Racing-Fuel-Regulator_W0QQitemZ150202699520QQihZ005QQcategoryZ133198QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I was hoping that I could just plumb the parts into the stock system. Is this possible? Or do I need to go with a full custom fuel delivery system?

Did a search and found nothing. Has anyone done this before? What would be the best place to tap into? The factory suggests to check it where the input line connects to the fuel pressure regulator. Is this acceptable or should it be after the stock FPR? It will be going on an EA81T. Also installing a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. Does anyone have any suggestions on that?

When I mounted my Hellas under my front bumper, I cut and painted a pair of index card sized aluminum plates and drilled a hole in each. My foggies don't move or bounce unless I tell them to!

Love it! I have the hubs/adapters to mount a set, just need to find one FS that has close to the correct offset and I don't want to order new ones.

If you suspect that you have the an incorrect rotor, I would check to see if there is any wear between the cap and rotor.

Make sure you post pics of the FPR when its installed. I need something to go off of for my wagon.

Lynnwood: One 2WD EA81 Four legacys Four or so EA82s Called Tacoma and they had ONE subaru, an XT. Haven't been to the Arlington one yet, but should be soon.

There is no visual inspection in WA.

Will a set of 2WD arms work on a 4WD?

There is some good adviece about removing the drums. The flathead in the washer trick has worked for me in the past, but I've also broken a few drivers doing it (Thank you Craftsman warrenty!). As for the backing plate and rotor, just bend it back out of the way.