tcspeer

Sometimes the facts can have humor. Maybe if I would have kept the tires all matched the transmission would not have failed so early.

I had to replace my transmission at around 320,000 miles because of the torque bind.

The button only works the lock on the lever, replacing the rear shoes should not affect this. You should have to press button in to release.

I use to get the spindle and hub from junk yards and swap them, then I picked up a press from harbor freight when they had them marked way down and started taking the old one apart and putting it back together if you are interested their is a good thread on the other board explaining the steps with pictures. If you do a search here for "How to conquer the wheel bearing" I listed some steps that may help.

I agree, get in a safe area on payment and back up and get down on brakes hard about three or four times. If you would rather you can jack the car up and take the tire off and adjust the lever from the back side until you hear a small drag, dont over do this it is much harder to reverse this if you get them to tight. Another cause for soft brakes is you may have a cyclinder or caliper bad. If the adjustment dont fix your problem have a brake shop pinch your calipers line and that will tell you if the problem is with the caliper. If the caliper is bad when the line is pinched then it will get the pedal firm again. I assume you have already had them bled?

I respect the opinions of others here, because they are saying the same thing Subaru says. However I think the idea of replacing all tires when one goes bad is crazy. I replaced mine as needed until I had well over 100,000 miles before I ever heard this, so I just keep doing it and I put well over 300,000 miles on my Legacy Postal wagon before the transmission quit. I am not telling you to do as I have because I may have just got lucky, But I will say with the amount of tires that I go through on my job it would be cheaper to replace the transmission ever four or five years instead of replacing all four tires evey time I ruin one tire because of having to drive on the edge of the road where so many tire hazards are. In fact I just picked up one new tire for it Monday. My last transmission lasted about nine years, with a full load of mail each day and all day of stop and go driving, and tires that were replaced as needed.

I like the therma quite pads by Wagner. Auto Zone's high priced Dularlast are good also just dont get the cheap pads they carry.

For what it is worth, I will never turn rotors again. It dont cost much more to replace them instead of turning them. I also have had many shake after having them turned.

Sittingbull, how did you go eleven years without doing this before now? Maybe you just bought it? Welcome to the board.

I think their is a number on the unit that must match, if someone here dont know you may be able to find out from the dealer.

They will not switch in a 97 legacy wagon, I tried no way.

I would buy a set of noid lights and check and make sure the injector is getting the signal to operate. You can get these for around 15.00 dollars at Auto stores. When my number three injector quit working it was the fault of the computer, I had current to the hot wire of the injector but no signal from the computer to make the noid light flash. After replacing the E.C.U. the problem was fixed.

I think the one with the little rubber tip goes on the bottom, I always thought the purpose for the tip was to work like a suction of a pump to force caliper back after you release the brake.

Gary is right on the 32 mm (at least on the axle nut on my Subaru)however, I like my six point 1-1/4 over my 12 point 32 mm. Which ever you get be sure it is six point.

Nice to get a new car, It looks like it will be a great choice with the increasing gas prices. Good luck and enjoy.

Gary is right about the little cir. clip. It is a small stiff wire that is in a circle with about 3/8 of in. gap, you just slid this over the groove that is in the axle stub. then you squeeze it together and push axle stub back in transaxle. The clip will then expand on the inside of transaxle to hold it in place.

Away with the 12 point sockets, I am in the process of replaceing mine with six point. I had the same thing happen to a oil drain bolt on a chev. with a 12 point but was able to take it right off with a six.

You may just need to take the radiator out and wash the coils out. I once took my radiator out and took it to the shop for internal cleaning only to have the radiator person inform me that it only needed cleaning on the outside.

If you have not replaced one before, make sure you get a door panel tool to remove the panel, this will keep you from breaking the holders where the push plugs go, also order you a few replacement plugs just in case. When you remove panel make sure the window is up, or else you will have to set the panel back on and plug the window back in to raise it.

On the door you need to replace the door check, it's the little thing that has the pin holding the arm. I think they are around thirty dollars. Check Ay. part # 62302AC101. $25.40 from Lithia Subaru # 866-717-2512

Yes, their was play in the front wheels at nine and three very noticeable. I also had the left front bearing out and I used the info. someone else posted on the board a while back about how to find it, I would like to credit that person but I dont remember who gave the info. Their info. was to raise the tires off of the ground and turn the tire while holding your hand on the spring you can easly feel the vibration in the spring it is a very good tip. Back to the tie rods if you order these from Subaru make sure to order the new lock washers they are not like reg. lock washers so you need these, my old ones were not in good shape. I went to Midas for a alinement after changing mine and the manager there who I have come to know well after many years told me that the tie rods made by Moog are better then the O.E.M. and he said they will come with the new locks.

I managed to get the inner tie rods changed without the proper tools, However I got the inner tie rod tool I ordered yesterday. What a tool, it's a large pipe looking thing that slides over the inner rod, at the end near the engine you place one of the crow foot that fits the tie rod you are working on. On the other end is a socket hole to insert your breaker bar. This is a great tool I would not suggest changing these rods without it, I only paid 39.00 dollars for it from Harbor Freight they are 99.00 dollars from snap on. But I would think you should be able to rent these from some of the auto part stores. The picture of this tool is misleading it is much bigger and better then it looks on the tool site.

You are probably not getting fire, but I would check and see if fuel is getting to the engine also. You may have water down in the spark plug holes, I would check. Did you check that big vacum hose? It has gotten more then one of us.

I would have the timing belt done, and would change the transmission fluid myself. I wouldnt worry about the coolant because as you already said it mostly will be changed with the head gasket job.

Make sure your big vacum line that is in the middle of the air tubing is still connected, it is the one that is around 3/4 in. dia. Other then that leave hood open and let dry.