Rooster2

Replacing the timing belt is a usual time to also replace the water pump, as it requires minimal extra labor. Probably also a good time to replace the auto tranny fluid and tranny external filter. Don't drop the tranny plan, as screen filter in there does not need to be replaced. If you are handy, you can do the tranny work yourself. Just drain and fill the tranny 3 times, with short drives between drain and fills. The 3 time approach is needed, as only about half the tranny fluid can be drained. The remainder stays in the torque converter, and won't drain out.

I too, have a 99 Leggie Outback. Yes, your mechanic is correct. Instrument warning lights go off upon starting the motor. Upon purchasing the car, do you know when the timing belt, and belt tensioners were last replaced?? Also, if and when head gaskets were replaced?? Some of the 99's have tranny delayed forward engagement problem. Do you sense that when shifting gears from R to D?? If so, an inexpensive fix is available. I have had my 99 for 10 years, and still love the car...fun to drive, very dependable, and easy to work on, still looks good. Have you noticed that the back seat is "stadium design," that is the rear seat cushion is about two inches higher then the front seats cushions. This allows the rear seat occupants to better see "over" the front occupants, to get a better view of the road ahead. A nice touch in my opinion.

Yes, I have done that before, if scoring is not that bad.

Thanks for correcting me. You are right the lugs hold them on. Been a while since I have done brake work. I would have recognized how to remove them. Small fastening bolts from caliper, I think, are used to screw into the threaded holes on the rotor. Upon threading in, the rotor gets pushed forward for easy removal.

The rotors just bolt on, really easy to do. As cheap as rotors are, it is far easier to replace. I don't think there are many shops around any more that turn drums or rotors.

My vote is the starter. I have had what you described, and it is always the starter. Fortunately, it is an ez swap to install a replacement. Most likely the brushes inside the starter are worn down. Some guys rebuild the starter with new brushes, but I have always just replaced the starter A test of the starter that can help, is when the starter clicks, but no start, is to lightly hit the starter with a hammer a few times. This can help worn down brushes make better contact and work, so car starts.

Well said, both my daughters had fender benders their first year of driving. Stupid stuff, one wreck caused by daughter changing stations on the radio, negligent result was rear ending the car in front at a stop light. Agree 2.2 motor in a 95-99 is bullet proof. A good choice.

Good idea. Also, add some Marvel Mystery Oil and drive for a few days before changing the oil. The MMO is a good detergent product, and will clean the engine of deposits.

Suggest draining and filling with new ATF three times, with short drives between drain and fills. The reason for the 3 fills is that only about half of the ATF can be drained from the tranny, the remainder stays in the torque converter. The 3 fills gives a better refill of fresh ATF. With last fill, add some Lucas transmission additive.

Valve clatter??

I would suspect something other then a blocked converter. Years ago, I had a car with a converter that rattled. The media inside the converter had broken loose. On a long trip the media jammed itself in the outlet pipe to cause major back pressure. The car would idle and drive fine up to about 45 mph. Then the back pressure was so great that the exhaust could not easily escape from the engine. As a result, the car would not accelerate beyond 45 mph. Still could be a blocked converter, but would check other things as well.

I have been using ceramic pads on both my 98 and 99 OBWs for years with no issues. Go to any parts store, ask for brake pads, and ceramics are offered to fit my Subarus. Maybe ceramics are not advised for competition cars that would need heat removal, but for the average "driver" car, ceramics should be just fine.

I think it is a warped rotor. This often happens when the rotor is over heated. Check to see if rotor slide pins are not stuck. If stuck, the pad does not completely pull back from the rotor, when you take your foot off the brake pedal. Result is over heating the rotor, and worn brake pad. This will happen on just one side of the car, and most often on the front. Usually you can feel, or detect which front side is causing the shudder. That is the brake to check out first.

I once got forced off a plowed street into a snow bank with my 99 Outback. Even so, my Subie dug its way out with not much effort. Traction control is not needed on a Subie. Just needs a good set of tires, and it will have plenty of traction.

Recently replaced the up stream O2 sensor on my 99 OBW with a Bosch oxygen sensor part # 13702, after CEL thru a code that the oxygen sensor was bad. The Bosch sensor works great, with my car running better then before the CEL. With on line discount coupon, cost from Advance Auto Parts was $59.XX.

Pretty sure since it has an automatic tranny, that the car has the 2.5 motor. All Subarus from the 1990's have timing belts that must periodically need replacing. For your peace of mind, since there is no info on if, and when the timing belt was changed, then it really needs to be changed. Otherwise, you gamble, and could possibly drive this car as few as 100 miles, have the timing belt break, or one of the pulleys, or idlers lock up, and your valves are broken. If that happens, you will feel like the world's biggest dummy for buying a car that just let you down. It does look like a very well kept car, but it is 17 years old, and old cars need attention not only because of miles driven, but because age deteriorates parts over time. $650 is reasonable if work includes a new timing belt, all new pulleys, tensioners, and a new water pump.

I seem to remember on the 96-99 2.5 motor, that the recommended timing belt change is at 65K miles. Later with the single over head cam 2.5 motor, the recommended timing belt change was increased to 105K miles. Do I have this info correct??

I have a 99 Legacy Outback for the past 10 years. 81K miles is very low, so prolly why the asking price is somewhat high. The engine is prone to blowing its head gaskets during its life time. Not a big deal, but always keep an eye on the temp gauge. If temp spikes up, then be concerned about the head gaskets. The timing belt needs to be replaced about every 65K miles. Ask if there are receipts, and if so, has the timing belt been replaced on this car. If there is no record, then have the timing belt replaced. Failure to do so, invites a broken belt, which will bend the valves. That is an expensive repair. I negotiated with the dealer for a new timing belt at time of purchase. The 99's sometime have an issue with the auto tranny not shifting properly. It is known as "delayed forward engagement," which affects some of the 99 and 00 models. This can be corrected by using Trans-X in the tranny. This product has kept my 99 on the road for the past 6 years. Overall the car is very reliable, and relatively easy to work on, and satisfying to drive. I have 236K miles on my car, and motor is still going strong. My head gasket blew out at about 175K miles, but by reputation the head gaskets can blow out with less then 100K on the odometer. Newer revised Subaru head gaskets are better then the originals. Just my imho advise, hope it helps

Be aware that both the 99 & 00 were prone to the "delayed forward engagement" problem on some automatic transmissions. Using Trans-X fixes the problem.

With multiple heater core plug ups, and radiator plug up, plus the "potato chip" type deposits, it just seems like too much stop leak some how was put in the system. Doesn't sound like your shop put in too much, but am suspicious someone else added more stop leak product that you are not aware of. If so, who knows what was added, and how much, or how compatible with Subaru conditioner.

Wow, that is a lot of rust. Don't know that sanding down and applying POR-15 will help that much. Surprised at that much rust, when you live in VA, as I don't think of VA using that much salt on the roads. In the past, has this car lived in an area where salt was heavily used in winters to cause this much rust??

Don't think I would be that much concerned with getting gas out for a visual or sniff test. If it were me, I would just see if I could get the motor started first. If you can get it started, let the motor idle until thoroughly warmed up. The car may want to run poorly, and may even want to stall, so don't pull out into heavy traffic right away. Agree with others about adding dry gas product, and fill up with high test gas as soon as you can.

Have you checked the fuse to see if okay. Don't know what unattached wire is for, but bet it is not for cig lighter. Check the power lead to the cig lighter for voltage with a meter or test light.

Impressive work and photography. I am sure once assembled, the engine will run like it is brand new.

Don't remember the code number, but do remember that the code specified the front 02 sensor as being bad. It is the one that screws into the front of the cat converter.