Gloyale

All EA82 axles are the same length All EA81 axles are the same length Period...... Length between where the boots attach is irrelavent. Think about it....each chassis is the same width, using the same knuckles, and same trans mounting points (AT and MT diffs are the same width) For a given chassis.......all axles are the same INSTALLED length. (off the car you can stretch and compress them...so that comparison is flawed) Snatched.....I think you may have gotten an EA71 (first gen) axle at some point. The only thing that varies is axle thickness, the cup/joint size, and the spline count (25 on turbos) This thread is just going to confuse people.

Are the test or read connectors plugged in? Green 2 pole connector and black single pole connector under steering column? If both are hooked up this is "clear" mode. If there are no codes to output, it flashes to tell you "I'm Reset, unplug the connectors now!" If it isn'[t this.....I'd be worried about driving the car.......Flashing CEL on newer models means misfire, and "stop driving! there's a problem that could damage the cat or engine"

Wow..... I service more clutchpack troubles and torque bind on automatics 5-1. The 5 speeds it usually always the main bearing, pop out of gear issue. The center diffs I've seen fail are actually the spiders binding/grinding not the VLSD itself.

Look for the yellow wire that isn't connected. Should go to - side of coil.

The - side of the coil should not be grounded. Your distributor should be a Hitachi D4R84-16........With one vac advance. If you've got a NipponDenso disty in there it's not original. When was the last time it ran? and what's been done since then?

It's matching the angle of the mounting surface in the body. If you don't angle them, you will push the tops out by about .25" per inch of lift. 17 degrees works well for Gen 2. I think the Gen 1 is 20. Gen 3 16 degrees. If you go 17 or more on a Gen 3 for more than a 3" lift it will push them in too far and they will hit the frame rails. Even with correct angle some bashing of the inner part of the strut tower is required to clear the bottoms of the plates But becareful.....it's not just the angle, but the rotation of the angled tube relative to the top plate. 1st and 2nd gens are easy.....tip is almost totally inward, perpendicular to the both holes.......but Gen 3 with the 3 hole pattern, and the angle going in, and back.......make it a bit more tricky. I have jigs to make sure HighGuysLifts are correct. And for Gen 2 rears you DEFINATELY want to crossbrace the rear.......even just for a streeter. EA81 rear suspension likes to "paralellagram" when cornering because the blocks are all in line. This will hyperextend you axles.

Unless you are running a snorkel.

They use different thickness shafts and different joints, but are effectively interchangable. The FWD automatic axles are thicker with a bigger joint. The length and splines are the same, that's all that matters.

Sounds like the Knock unit is disconnected/gone..... And also I think the black wire to the - side of the coil that is for a condensor? below the coil? Gotta have a condensor to fire this system. If that wire just goes to ground that's a problem.

If the Knock unit has failed you can run it with a regular carbed model Hitachi disty.

This is fraud. And it costs all the rest of us money And almost worst of all your hoarding axles from the collective rebuilt/buildable supply!lol I wish i could report you to autozone.......but at least I know who to blame for rising prices for the axles and changes to warranty policy that could screw me over when I actually need a warranty. It's bad enough to give that advice. But to post pictures you've actually committed a crime multiple times and bragging!?!?! You don't deserve any love from your subaru and it will break down on you to prove it.

$400???? That's crazy talk. The full 5 lug swap parts alone can fetch than, let alone if engine runs, if the air suspension works, an LSD rear diff perhaps.......man..... Prices are higher out west here. I see fwd XTs go for $1500+ just as basic running transportation. An XT6 with low miles, running.....with just minor maintainence needs or troubles should still be worth $2000+ and much more if very nice body condition. Then again Idaho uses more de-icer than we do. Might be a bit more rust.....still

If you have no lift it's easier. With a lift, I think the whole rail would need removed becasue the engine sits lower between them. So it will depend on the exact setup you run.

I would not use fel pro. OEM only. I believe you will want the 25D gasket (water ports match the heads)

This is not needed, nor recommended by subaru or anyone. Not sure were SoobieDoobie gets that info from? I have seen where the clearance in the Cam journals was too large, and too much oil escape out the cam journal.....never makes it all the way to the lifter buckets. Gotta replace Carrier. In this case i would suggest a little more driving to see if they quite down. After that I would remove the carrier and check it out. Replace the O-rings with the OE type.

I'd guess cleaning fouled plugs, and possibly freeing up a sticky/carbon covered valve. You think that's cool.....try some Lucas injector cleaner in the Gas........I got 5mpg better on my first tank after using it and the 300k mile injectors happy now...more power.

Swap the Cams to match with rocker assemblies. All intechangable but you want to keep the cams with their matched rockers. Single port heads I do think make better low end torque. The single port equalizes the port length in the head. This plus the 95+ equal length header pipe helps scavenging at low RPMs. Loses some of the nice boxer rumble though.

Don't forget redrilling the EA flywheel to fit the EJ engine crank.

Proably just popped the freeze plugs in the head. Easy to replace....can be done in the car even. I wouldn't junk the engine. Rebuild it....I'm sure the block is still fine and since it didn't really start like that the rods are probably still okay.

Whoa!!! stop the runaway diagnosis train!! Squeking throw out bearing, goes away when clutch pushed in. Common......benign, and not an issue until next clutch change. CV axle on the other side. Clunk clunk in a turn. Pinion trouble (espescially a clunking) would happen going staight, and be most audible when coasting......not go away. This is getting out of hand......Diffs hardly ever go bad in the manuals....if anything the uppershaft large support bearing goes and it starts poping out of 4th and 5th. That bearing can be replaced for <$500 parts and labor.

Blade frozen to the window. give it a lift and tap before trying it in the mornings.

C'mon guys....that brat doesn't look TOO bad. Although $4500 is too high. Then again they aren't makin any more of them, and more of them go to scrap every day........and they are a collectible model. Who's to say that it shouldn't be worth that? Heck......If that one is $4500 mine is worth $12,000!!!

Valves aren't any bigger in 96 single port heads. Although I do think the cams in that year are roller follower, and make better low end torque than the 90-94 dual port heads. The only down side to the singles in my mind is the lack of interchange of exhaust manifolds.

You can hook up those switches to an EJ cruise computer, pump, and cable actuator. Looks totally stock but works like new. Doesn't even need to be an EJ engine just hook up VSS and Tach and wires to clutch/brake pedals.

Timing belt broken would yeild no spark condition. If all electronics check OK (fuses, 12v to coil on yellow wire) then I would suspect the T-belt.