Gloyale

You aren't actually drilling the rotor, but actually the hub that the rotors are bolted to. They are just a mild cast, not hardened, so with cutting oil you should be fine with 2 bits at the most.

I think the what is there already will be fine. There should be a clip that bolts the lines down tight against the crossmember, and will move them away from the exhaust another "1/2 or more.

Strange. All the Front diffs I've taken out of EA and EJ manual trans are all the same. And all the non-turbo EA trans we got here were all 23 spline. Things may be different down there, but all my experience has been that the diff stubs, and the diff carriers themselves, are totally interechangable. We put 25 spline stubs into a standard 3.9 EA D/R to use it in a Legacy(liberty)

you could just put 23 spline stubs into the Transmission when you have it apart, and then use standard brumby axles with no modification.

Many EA82 A/C set-ups use a long-headed 14mm bolt on the front/bottom part of the bracket, securing the bracket to the block. I have cut the long 14mm head off of these bolts and then used that in combination with a 6 point 14mm socket to remove the coolant plugs and wrist pin plugs.

That is either a choppped EA82 or a brat with EA82 fenders on it. Clearly, the sharp angle of the body line and the turn signal area show those are EA82 front fenders, whatever the rest may be.

Well, the passenger compartment of hte subaru extends all the way to the back of the wagon. Even though nobody is sitting back there, it is still part of the same air enclosure. I know here in Oregon, the exhaust must exit fully behind (or above, STACKS!) the passenger area, which on a wagon, includes the rear.

The relay behind the strut is not the fuel pump relay, it is for the AC. Fuel pump relay is mounted up above the ECU, next to the Brown main ignition relay. Fuse is easier to pull, but the relay isn't hard to access either. You will have to run it for probably 30 to 90 seconds before it will stall. But if you pull the fuel pump fuse, it shoudl start then die after that. Or just wrap a rag around it, there isn't that much pressure, and it will just spurt once into the rag.

No, I mean you could put 2 inch spacerss on the TOPS of the struts, and if that were done, you could simply used OUtback spacers adn control arm mounts to space down the subframe. with you're current setup (OB struts on a 1st gen Legacy, correct?) you don't need the outback spacers or brackets. If you added them you would lose clearance.

Colant temp sensor Or IAC

If it won't run cold unless you have throttkle open, then I woiuld bet the culprit to be the AAV, Auxilary air valve, located ontop of the thermostat housing. Stuck closed, or with a plugged line.

I am guessing you didn't unbolt the Torque converter firtst before removeing engine? You pulled teh TC out still attached to the flexplate? That could likely have put side force on it and finished breaking what may have already been cracked. My guess is the car sat for long periods of time(must hasve to only have 130K, moisture buikt up at the end of it's seal and rusted it.

Fuel injector or the wires going to it

And of course the rest of the TCU wiring. But those 3 signals are all that;s needed form outside the Trans/TCU

It needs the valve to be in the correct posistion, as well as having the electronic signal from the switch. It is easy because the switch mounts directly to the side of the trans, so no internal mounting. Someone else built a paddle shifter, but IDK how they got around the valve issue. My Legacy 4eat won't engine brake in 1st hold, unless the lever is all the way down to 1 position.

Right now I am in. Gotta weld a rear end and get some spare axles.

The rear seal is way on the inner part of the door frame. I haven't needed to cut that much out to afect the seal.

I put this in the wrong forum too.........great.....just great Admin move to Old Gen please:)

84 GL wagon Original EA81 motor D/R 4 spd trans 6 inch lift installed EA82 SPFI converted 87 harness/91 Loyale Intake and ECU. So after finally sourcing a radiator, and discovering that I needed to switch 2 wires to make my 87 Disty wokr for the 91 ECU, it finally runs. I spend another few hours wiring in the Temp, Oil, VSS, And CEL(ECS) light inside the dash I get on to the exhaust. Bolted on a whole Loyale exhaust. Fit perfect with the lift, hits the mustache bar slightly. Installed skidplate. Went to DMV to get trip permit(temp tags)till I can get ahold of the guy I bought it from and get the lost title form filled. Then......Leaky water pump. So I order one today. It aint too bad, so I am gonna just keep her full of water and do a little wheeling. Nope......Now, the SPFI fuel pump I swapped in isn't working. I think it is jsut hte pump, as I can feel it actually *click* when the D-check mode cy cles the pump. But no whirring or pumping, it just makes a bit of a click. DAMNNNN.......just venting:mad:

Replace the connector and in tank wiring. Or probably easier to get the whole unit used from a wreck. That, or I'll bet Subaru has a part# for just that wiring connector bit, you could order.

Actually, this isn't true. Oregon is one of the few states you can buy a car OUT of the junkyard. It WILL have a *reconstructed* title, and it will have to be VIN inspected at registration. Other than that, there is no law against buying a car from the yard.

You could do a 2 inch kit, and include the crossmember spacers and control arm mounts from teh outback(if you already have those, you can go the 2 inches on top of that) With a 4 inch kit, you will need to put at least a 3 or 4 inch crossmember spacer, and match that with spacers on the original control arm mounts. ALTERNATELY you could use the Outback brackets with a 1-1/2 in. spacer. The front diff mount should be fine with a 3" lift, but lower it 1 inch if you go to 4" Remember, the lift is all at the top of the struts. The rest is lowering the subframes and mounts to keep driveline geometry. I personally would recomend building you're lift to 3". With forrester struts, you can't go bigger than 29" tires anyway, and 3 is enough to clear those.

I doubt these are rust buckets. The coupe looks NICE. There's enough of us around the NW that someone should want it. Go on, give em a call.

Clamps or Zipties

Unless you are buying body parts (like tail lights, or doors) Then just always tell them it's a wagon. That way you will get EA82 parts. If you get parts for a Hatch, yyou will get the wrong parts every time.