Gloyale

85,86 is an excact replacement 87+ will work and bolt in, but the headlight adjusters will interfere with the grill, very slight bending/cutting would be needed.

Ther eare 2 lights. 1 for the Parking brake 1 for the brake system warning. If it is the parking light on, it could just be a fallen penny or something under the center console blocking open the switch for the parking brake light.

They will probably have a hard time looking it up. And they will want an arm and a leg for it. Better to go to a pick a part Junkyard and walk around til you find a Subaru. Pull all four relays from under it's dash so you have extras. They are all the same. You'll get them all for 5 bucks.

There are three balls that ride in a track at hte base of the mirror. There are detents in the track, which are the *in place* spots. When you fold the mirror out, sometimes the one or more of those little ball fall out. I've been able to shim a ball bearing back intop the track by carefully prying up the mirror and pushing the ball under. IIRC, the mirror must be rotated about 45 deg forward to access the track.

The shorter one is for early Flapper MAF style engines. 85,86 all and early 87 XT turbo. You need one for 87+

It's legal to drive them on the road, just not to register them. What I mean is, if this was your *farm" vehichle, you could drive it on roads like a tractor from point to point. You just can't liscence it. Probably wouldn't want to go on the highway either. But if it has all required lights, the most trouble you could get in is not haveing insurance on it. And a good farm policy probably would cover it.

Problem is that most of the *new* heads are gone. Getting used ones, you are likely to run into the same cracks. I have mine welded. The other best option would be a head from a non-turbo XT, and fit it with the turbos return oil pipe. The non turbo heads are not likely to be cracked.

No, 86 does not have that switch. 85,86 there was only the hazard switch up there. He may have something else going on. Probably the brake light switch. It may just need adjusted

The difficult access angle is what I think leads to trouble. People are used to just dropping the plug down the hole and cranking. You have to be very careful to get the threads started correctly, then it becomes as simple and easy as any other car.

Better off finding a new block. A good old Carbed block can be got for next to nothing. Probably less likely to have been abused. Swap you're pistons and you're set with what will likely be a better bottom end.

Check it out.

For #1, I've had good luck *repairing* them. Completely degreaseing the whole boot inside and out. In the kitchen sink, with tons of Dish soap. After drying, filling gaps with a bit of RTV wiping away any excess. Then wraping tightly and repeatedly with electrical tape. If you can lay the tape tight and without folds, it might not be noticed. I use real hose clamps for the PCV hoses, instead of the original spring type clips. For #2, that solenoid can be replaced with one from other types of vehichles from the 90's. Isuzu, Honda, Nissan, Toyota, or even newer Subarus. You have to get one that is the right type (normally open or closed, vented or non) but any JY should have one somewhere that can be used. For #3, 5/8th Evap rated hose is available from Carquest, Napa, and others. Doesn't have to have the funky bends. The Plastic *F* shaped unit can be replaced with a simple *T* to make hose routing easier. 3 inlets either way. 1 and 2 may not fly for the Smog guys, but 3 should be completely acceptable, provided you use Evap hose. SSK (Subaru, Suzuki, Kia in Rancho Cordova will likely have the intake and a solenoid) Once you button all that up, there is a good chance you're idle will drop to normal. If not, and there are no other vacuum leaks, the idle can be adjusted by the recessed screw on the back side of the Throttle Body.

I was just pondering this on my way down I-5 today. Great minds, right? Anyhow, I think it would be feasable on the early Flapper MAF style(85,86) Fuel management is run by th ECU, but the ignition is a seperate control unit. These cars use a magnetic pickup type disty. You could replace it with the early escort distys that fits to the rear of the passenger side Camshaft on the EJ. Run the Escort Ignition module. I don't know how well the Turbo ECU will handle not having a boost signal for full enrichment. Perhaps you could use an ECU from an 85 or 86 non-turbo XT. The connectors are 99% identical, simple rewwire. Or, using the turbo ECU, the Maf spring could be adjusted, make a bypass idle switch and then the Throttle position sensor could be played with. Replace the Pressure switch to a vaccum signal set to some point??? Definately easier than using the later optical style disty and hot-wire Maf type system. For all the same reasons discused in this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87863

I was not taliking about the rubber gasket that goes around the outer edge. That is just the gasket. I mean the valve itself. The plate that is moved by expansion of the wax pellet(not bi-metal) On cheap themostats, the plate just seats against the metal hole. Metal on metal seal. Subaru Thermostats have a rubber seal on that plate.

Sure you weren't seeing greasy hand prints burning away???

Yeah, all the listings I find show different part #s. However, the parts appear to be identical. Oh, well. I guess he's gonna have to buy new ones. He's complaining about the cost of repairs, but he won't let me use the used parts I have unless "it's excactly the right part". Whatever, his money, and he'll be better off with new anyway. Thanks for the help.

Oil leaks dripping up front can also be the Power steering pump leaking down the front of the covers. Just a side note of something else to look at up front for leaks.

The captive nuts do not extend into the cab at all. They are welded into the support bracket that lines the inner portion of the rear fender. If you clean all the crap in there, you can actually put you're finger behind the lip of that bracket and feel the captive nut and the end of the bolt protruding. Easy as pie to spray some lube back there. Or even heat with a torch if needed. make sure to pull the innterior plastic trim away form the body if you use heat.

Problem with the car turns out to be both innner tierod ends have slop. I have a 93 Legacy rack with known recently replaced and tight tierods on it. The parts appear identical. I would not hesitate to swap them on my own car. But the customer wants assurance from someone that it is an iterchangable part. Could someone compare part#s between 2000 OB inner tierods, and 93 Leg inners? Much appreciated

Unless I want to run my 4EAT in FWD mode whenever on road, I can't weld it. Fulltime 4wd and whatnot. I already have the FWD fuse wired to a switch on the dash for instant FWD. Handy for whipping a reverse 180 on narrow trails, but I do really like my AWD on wet roads. Plus, If this idea works well, I may adapt it for all 4 wheels on a Legacy, or other AWD manual trans. So for now, no Welded diff.

That's fine. Since I'm not spacing the carrier (or perhaps only an inch) The angle will actually help. And my car is a 4spd auto.

Cutting and aligning the angle of the pipe is the part I'm most worried about. I can make the plate tops and bottom easy. Cutting the angled pipe is easy. Making sure both tops get welded at the correct angle relative to the bolt holes.... that's the part that worries me.

If I went that route, I was planning on changing the angle of the mount on the plate. Then just making a longer radius arm with only one bend. Just like the stock one but longer and a bit more angle to the bend. However, I think rewelding the whole plate to have an extension is the best idea. Probably what I'll do.

So I am in the process of building a lift. Well, part of it. I plan on using SJR 4 inch kit for rear, and possibly those sweet SJR CNC Strut tops for the front as well. (but I might make my own, not sure yet. Getting the angles perfect, and mirror to each other is daunting)) But the rest of the blocks I am making on my own. I am using a 4 inch block under the front crossmember. My big question is about the triangular radius rod plate. Has anyone done anything other than just spacer block underneath? My though was to try to make a custom radius rod, longer, with a bit of a bend. So that the mount plate could stay bolted up tight, no spacers. Or possibly only a 1" or 2" spacer only instead fully 4 inches. My other Idea was to cut out the part of mount that the rod goes through, and weld it back on, extended and braced 4 inches down. The rod would then be at the "stock angle" relative to the crossmember. But the plate would be bolted up tight, out of the way of rocks and tree roots. (espescially when you have to back up over rough terrain, say to get a better run at a hill.) Plus I think the plate being bolted tightly to the body helps spread the load off of the bolts and onto the mating surface of the unibody and plate. Less risk of ripping out captive nuts. (that just sounds bad on too many levels) What have you done? What are you're thoughts? Pics of anything like this would be fantastic.

Only problem with the strut bottom extension is the camber. If you just effectively lengthen the shock, you are pushing the top of the knuckle outward. end up like this \-/ With strut tops, you can make them with an angle to compensate, and actually improve over stock camber.