Gloyale

Check for voltage out of the ECU at the corresponding pin. If the voltage is there but not at the Disty replace that wire. You could also disconnect both the disty plug and the ECU and measure the resistance of the wire end to end. That will take long leads but try it, and see if there is any resistance. Should be very near zero. Measure on a low scale to make sure you get into the .000's of ohms. Anything over .005 ohms is higher than the wire should be.

Sweet:clap: :clap: :banana: :headbang:

Just a tip, the left side cover has one bolt with a nut on the back. It's the lowest, closest to middle of engine one. You'll need to put a 10mm wrench on the back or it will spin

The left and right pulleys are the same and interchagable. The dots can either be straight up or straight down. Bacause the crank turns twice for every one turn of the Cams. The 2 cam pulleys should always be opposite eachother, one straight up, and one straight down. That's when the crank is on the 3 little lines anyway. When the Crank is at 0 degrees TDC the marks shuold be at 45% Slanted out, but still opposite to the other one. Do you have the crank lined up at 0 TDC or at the 3 little marks? Rotate the motor another full turn. The dot should now be straight up. But both sides should be excactly opposite each other always.

If it was leaking at the Head to block seal he'd have oil in Coolant/ coolant in oil, or Coolant in Cylinders. He says that is not the case. Being as it's a Turbo I'm sad to say it's probably a cracked head in the exhaust passage. Look in my member photos for a pic of the cracks. Here a link someone else posted with good pics as well. http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b260/soobscript/ValveCracks/

Now that's what I was asking for. I guess I wont use them then. There really aren't any shops like that around here. There is a Machine shop that happens to be familiar with Soobs and has a bore plate for the engines. But otherwise there aren't any "tuner" shops around here. Perhaps in Chicago, but they want big $$$$$. 1st gen Legacies are starting to get really hard to find around here too. And I Wouldn't want a bearing from them anyhow. Any car that's 15 years old here in Wisconsin is rusty and worn out. My car has no rust because I brought it out from Oregon. I'll probably just buy new bearings and have them pressed into the hub. I was only thinking of the used swap because they were really cheap and supposedly had good bearings from the out west, no rust.

You may have cracks in the Exhaust port of the heads. Did you inspect the exhaust port to look for cracks?

This started as a no start after conversion thread, so I thought perhaps you may have hooked up the lines wrong, or not added the SPFI fuel pump. I am just trying to step back and review all possibilities

That's what I was saying, there is no hall effect in these. They need power to the LED inside to make any kind of pulse. I really think testing for any AC voltage is a goose chase. Just out of curiousity, is your're fuel supply (from filter)line going to the front most tube on the throttle body? And the curved one coming out of the regulator to the return? Just a though cause after days of "WTF" we discovered that was the problem with Subaru-dudes car in the "another EA82 no start" thread

I'd put about half a Quart of ATF in it. Then drive it for a day or two. Then change the oil. It can take aquite a while before the valvetrain quiets down, but the ATF will help it drastically.

Good call. The differential and the Auto trans sections are seperated in these. The differential fill hole is on the passenger side, and should get 80-90 gear oil or similar. The trans dipstick is on the Drivers side, kinda behind the starter. ATF is filled down the tube with a skinny funnel or pump.

As far as the 2wd comment, I meant to say when mated to the 3spd automatic. Which in this case was the 2wd car he mentioned. 2wd 5spds are quicker for sure. The 3at is a dog. It was late and my brain was not working. With 90 HP, EA82 cars ARE slow by todays standards. C'mon, we all know it. Espescially in there bone stock versions, with all there emmisions stuff and no weber. There not as bad as say, a volkswagon Bus or a Yugo. But they are not nearly as powerful as newer cars. It's sad to say, but I used to get beat by minivans and Corrollas all the time. I could take them till about 25-30 mph, but after that, the free breathing, 21st century engines are faster. Espescially at highway speeds. The EA82 will get up to 85-90 mph, but it tkaes a while and hills will bog it down. I was only trying to tell the OP not to expect this car to be the fastest on the freeway.

99% of the info from the 89 book will be the same for your 92 Loyale. I have a 90 FSM for Loyale but that's the newest I've got. Like I said, I'm in Kenosha, which is just south of Racine. If you're in Waukesha it's only about a 40 min drive or less.

They may have been trying to line up the Cam Pulley dots both straight up. Or lining them straight up and down when the crank is at Zero instead of to the 3 little lines. One straight up, one straight down= crank at center of 3 lines One 45 up and out, one at 45 down and out = Crank at Zero TDC. If the belts are correct both of these statements will be true. The 2 crank sprockets can get reversed, but it will still run like that. But the Cam pulleys only go on one way because of the locator dowels between the 3 bolts. I'll bet your belts are just 1 or 2 teeth off.

She is wrong about going by the book. She either has the wrong book or is not understanding it right. To check them, remove the outer covers at both ends of the motor. Remove the spare tire and pull the rubber cap out of the back of teh motor to view the flywheel. Use a 22mm socket to turn the crankshaft until you see 3 small lines(not the numbered timing lines, seperate from those about 90 deg. past them) on the flywheel and line up the center of the 3 with the pointer. If the belts are correct the marks (small dot) on the Belt pulleys will be pointing straight up, and straight down(one each, the cam pulleys marks should always be excactly opposite eachother) Alternately you can set the flywheel to Zero TDC on the numbered lines, and the Cam pulley marks should be at a 45 degree angle, but still excactly opposite of eachother. There is a slight difference between the 2 sprockets that drive each belt from the crankshaft. If they are installed wrong it can cause at least a los of power. Here is a very lenghty thread about that. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69210&highlight=crank+sprocket+real+truth Disregard BDGs posts. Go by WJMs info. If you find that the belts are close but off by just a couple degrees you will want to remove the covers and reset them. Check that the pulleys are correct at that point before reassembly.

I'm assuming you are also replacing the cam seal? Otherwise why remove that pulley at all to do a Waterpump?

What happened to "I plan on keeping it a long time and making it cherry"???

That may be what it tkaes. It isnb't really meant to come apart. I think the accidental one I had was a reman axle. The others I've done(to clean and regrease) did require quite a bit of force to unseat the clip.

Plugging those in with the key on will only operate the pump and pressurize the line. No fuel will spray from the injector until the engine is cranked and the ECU sees the crank signal and triggers injector to pulse. Put it toghether and try.

Uhh... If they are the same bearing as my 93 legacy then I really wouldn't be any worse to use Impreza bearings. And I know on my EA cars the backing plate while tightly fitted, isn't impossibe too remove and reinstall. I just need ot know if it will work. Are the Hubs/bearings the same? Same geometry and mountings? I can swap the discs, but are the bearings and hubs the same?

The rear mains of these cars don't leak that often. Espescially compared to the Front and the oil pan. I'd reseal the front and the pan before attempting a Trans removal. It would suck to pull the trans, then the Flexplate and find a seal that is not leaking.

The DCv tests are to be done on the harness side. Testing for the AC pulse would be a test of the disty wires. however this is not a hall effect distributor so I don't think yuo would see any AC voltage. Cougar, Why test on the AC scale? The FSMs proceedure says nothing about testing the disty on the AC scale.

I have a 93 Legacy wagon, non-ABS, Disk rear brakes. It needs the rear wheel bearings replaced bad. Someone has offered me Impreza rear hubs with good bearings in them for a bargain price. Would I be able to use these on the Legacy If I swap out the drum setup from the Impreza with my Legacy Disks? Are the Wheel bearing setups and hubs the same, minus the brakes?

There is what I believe to be an 88 4wd here at my local yard. I have to go there soon to pull A/C stuff(really need to get there for that). Do you need antyhing in particular? it's a 5spd 4wd, red.

Yopu said fans are in working order. Does that mean the electric fan actually comes on when the temp gets high? It may be that the thermoswitch is bad. Put the selector to on the vent controls to off, then let it get warm. If the fan hasn't come on by the time the temp gets to 2/3rds then something is wrong. Either the thermoswitch is bad, or it has a bad connection at the plug or to ground.