Gloyale

Theres no need to dischage the AC to do the belts. Infact, at least the allingment of the belts can be verified by removing only the end covers on both sides. This will give you a vew of the pulleys and there marking(they should be 45 Degrees and opposite each other w/flywheel at TDC. Or straight up and down opposite w/flywheel on center of 3 disty allingment marks), and the crank marks are on the Flywheel. Even to change the belts you can just unbolt the AC bracket, disconnect the wires to it but leavthe lines attached, and just fold it back out of the way into the spare tire area. the radiator doesn't even needto come out, but it helps. The A/C condensor in front of the radiator is not in the way at all. Keep in mind these cars are fairly slow by todays standards, even when running well. Espescially when mated to the 2wd. Eliminate all the other possible causes of overheating, and perhaps you'll find with a tune up and some RPMs she'll get moving fast enough for ya. But you should at least check the alingment of the belts.

+1 for Silver or White. I think the black doesn't showcase the cool superlites enough. You might as well have black steelies. With the silver ring is worse even, too busy. Maybe chrome ring but flat silver looks.... well I don't like it. White would look pretty sweet. Match the bumper and it'd evoke the old school spirit of the old white factory wagon wheels.

It's 1324. You have 2 and 4 switched

EGR solenoid. It's the little box mounted to the manifold with vacuum line going to EGR. It's just a valve that's opened or closed to control operation of the EGR. Basically once the car is warmed up the valve is opened to let vacuum flow to the EGR valve. It won't really affect anything driving wise, maybe cold engine acceleration could get rough if it's stuck open. But it's likely the electric coil that actuates the valve is broken, and the valve is stuck closed. But if you want to fix the code the solenoid can be relplaced with a solenoid from almost any import. Some look different but function the same. The connectors just have to be switched.

You're right. Now that is carnage.

There are 3 pitches common for Metric fasteners. It's not just Course and fine, it's Course, Fine, and Finer. Or M whatever X 1.5, 1.25, and 1.00 The oil pump and water pump bolts are M6 x 1.00 not 1.25. I am positive on this. If you tap it with a 1.25 tap it will F!#* it up. I just went out and ran a tap into the demo block and it is for sure 100% an M6 x 1.00.

You mean this tool?

Is that 20 degrees with the Green test connectors connected(disconnect them when done)They are behind the drivers strut tower, under the hood. Redline is 6500 but subaru does say not to rev over 4000 for "extended periods" so I wouldn't just cruise at 5000 rpms. BUT You can rev these to 4000-4500 rpm all day long. Which should equate to about 80-85. I got a ticket for 84 in a 70 once in North Dakota, In an 86 Carbed so I know they can get up there. Since the T belts were most likely removeed during the Water pump replacement , I think It's very likely that either the crank pulleys got switched or one or both belts is off a tooth.

Could it be one of the shields on the exhaust? 3000 rpm is right around the spot where the exhaust developes a Harmonic and starts to vibrate. I went to look at a Loyale for sale once. 300 dollars. It was mint. The price was so cheap because some Mechanic(Malcoms in Corvallis OR, don't ever ever ever go there) told her that the transmission was shot and the engine lwas not far behind. (meanwhile he missed the leaky water pump) Anyway I advised her of it's true condition. After resealing the oil pump and putting a clamp on a piece of the exhaust shield that was rattling she decided to keep it. I did T-belts, Cam seals, Front seal and the water pump too. It only had 115,000 miles and she was ready to basically junk it becasue of an exhaust rattle at 3000 RPMs.

No probably about it. You MUST split the case(which means removeing it form the car) to get the rods and crank. You have to take the heads off to get at the case bolts so they have to come off too. Replace you're pan gasket and leave the rest alone until there is a real reason to pull the motor. You've got tons of miles left as is.

It's held by a spring clip. I've never had that hard a time with it. But it is tough. Perhaps a bigger solid punch? The FSM does say it's not servicable but I swear I've had them apart. Once my friends came apart while driving:eek: of course his castle nut had come off, and he'd driven from Californa to Oregon with nothing but the caliper and rotor holding the hub on:eek: . I had to get a new spring clip to reassemble it.

You're welcome. Knowing that it's fixed is great, thanks for updateing and great pics. The warm feeling of being connected to working cars driving happy people is the reward for taht makes up for the countless 's from the GF. I may have to quit this or she'll be

So did you get it running? Yeah definately the tube comes relatively straight out of the TB(front) is the inlet. The bent one coming out of the top of the FP reg(rear) is the return. If those where switched that would make it not run. Once you swap em right i'll bet it fires right up.

Black / White (5v) | White Wire to Disty Black / Green (12v) | Red Wire to Disty Yellow / Green (5v) | Green Wire to Disty Black = Black = Ground This should be correct. All the readings are good too. You could try switching the white and green wires but if it's as described above it should be right. There are conflicting diagrahms in the FSM as to whether or not SPFI and MPFI are the same arrangement in the connector. It may be possible that while nearly identical the MPFI disty and the SPFI ones are not compatible, whether or not the connections are the same. The part # you gave early in this thread was for an MPFI right? You should have D4P84-03 for an SPFI. I think what you have is an XT(NA MPFI) D4P86-03 Does anyone else know specifically about MPFI/SPFI disty compatibility?

Test connectors are under the hood, in engine bay for your're car(SPFI). On Turbo(MPFI) models they are under dash along with the Black read connector. It is a green connector actually, not a green wire. The wire may actuially be Blk/red or some other but the connectors are bright green, right behind the drivers strut. It's actually a 2 pin connector but only one is used. The Power Window unit is under the passenger seat carpet. There is a main power supply wire that has a junction. One of those one wire stripped of insulation with 3 or 4 crimped wires crimped to it types. It's in a bad spot right under the passengers feet, under carpet and get's corroded as heck. If you're ambitious take out the seat and fish that wire out of the carpet. There is a Circuit breaker on the control unit bracket too you could check, but I doubt it's bad. I had Fredonia confused with Caledonia, which would be much closer. But hey I'd love an excuse to come up north. Perhaps sometime soon.

The fuel supply line (from the filter) goes to the frontmost tube on the throttle body. The regulator is at the rear, and the line out of it is the return That's based on info from this write-up. It's about SPFI conversion but in the middle it describes the function and location of the inlet and return lines, as well as the vent. http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI_doc.html

Okay, but it would still be good to know excactly what year. 2wd or 4wd. Someone else answer the fuel line ?? anyone got pics of an SPFI fuel pressure regulator? I'm not sure but I think on MPFI the regulator is after the injectors, It controls the return of fuel to the tank to control the pressure. I got mine backwards for a minute and it wouldn't start. I can look in the book for the SPFI setup at home but I'm at work now:(

Yeah you can get the bolts at a good hardware store. Thread size is m6x1.00 And as far as helping friends, It's what I do. Now there are times that I charge money to work on cars too. Most of the time I do, but not when it's a EA82 Suby and the owner just wants advice and assistance. If you drop off the car and say "fix it" I charge. Hmmm.. For the FSMs. Do you mean you have both books? section 1,2,3 in one book. 4,5,6 in the other. Or do you just have a downloaded copy of sect. 1 and 2? 1 = general info, pre delivery, vin info 2 = Engine 3 = Transmission 4 = suspension 5 = Body 6 = Electrical For some years(86,87,88,90)there are 4 books, sect. 1, sect 2-3, sect. 4-5, and sect. 6 But for some crazy reason, 85 and 89 are a 2 book set. Sect. 1-3 and Sect 4-6 So I'm not sure how you have just section 1 and 2?

Are you sure the Fuel pump is working? Check it for voltage at the pump connector while someone cranks the engine. If there is no voltage while cranking, but it works with teh test connectors plugged in then you may have an ECU issue, or perhaps an ignition switch issue. And are you sure that the fuel lines are not reversed? I mean did you possibly switch the inlet and return hoses? Is this by chance an 89 2wd car with Automatic seatbelts? I noticed the other day that curiously, the 89 2wds with auto belts only, have a *rev sensor*. Basically a little relay that won't let the fuel pump run unless it senses an ignition pulse form the tach wire. Did you unhook any wires form the coil? could there maybe be one left to hook up, or perhaps it's on the pos not the Neg terminal? Does your tach move during cranking?

Those green connectors should be disconnected for driving. If they are connected the car is in a diagnostic mode. If it is blinking then everything is fine. Disconnect them for normal driving. 7 flashes is the model indication designator. You must have a SPFI, Auto trans, 49 state car. These are the designations 1-4 are for MPFI: 1 = MT, 49 state 2= MT, Cali 3= AT, 49 state 4= AT,Cali 5-8 means SPFI: 5 = MT, 49 state 6 =MT, Cali 7 =AT, 49 state 8 =AT,Cali If there are trouble codes then you won't get the designator. The fact that it shows the designator code means there are no active trouble codes Tim, You are very close to me I think. If you ever need any face to face advice, help, or a look at the Factory service manual let me know. Fredonia is a short drive from Kenosha

This statement tells me this guy is full of it. It may not have seperate anchor points, but any car seat will work with a 3 Point shoulder belt. I have a car seat that I use in my 89 GL, and my 93 legacy. If the guys driving is as aggressive as his attitude(see title of thread) then welll...... And yes I know this is 4 years old.

My 89 GL turbo has no rack either. I think the popularity of Yakima and other types of aftermarket racks made subaru stop putting racks on except as an option. I like no Rack, better aerodynamics for MPG. I can put the Yakima on for my Bike or Board when I need it.

Redrilled 6 lug or Puegot wheels are your only options really. There were some 14" wheels in 4x140 made by Subaru for the European market, but they are exceedingly rare in the states. Theres a whole thread on here in the Off-road forum? maybe the in the USRM? search and you will find.

A picture of the relay and it's location would be great too. Guess I'll go get the camera.