Gloyale

Actually if you drop it you need a coupler that is longer but not by the same amount. It will actually be a bit less. think of it as a right triangle......where the coupler is the hypotinus of the triangle. we will call that "C" the height difference of the rack end, and the column end is "B" and the horizontal length is "A" So if you drop the crossmember 2" you need a coupler that is A squared + (B+2") squared = C squared

I run a 2" lift, with 1 1/4" outback crossmember spacers. I also move the small clamp of the CV boot in towards the trans so it isn't stretching. Get a good skidplate (stockers available plenty) the lost 1" clearance will be worth not ruining axles (and tires) The 2" lift with no drop creates bad camber and weird turn in at full lock. Eats tires.

It's not inferior.....it just is better for other things. Best application is on rear wheel drive "baja" type trucks. The twin I-beam can achieve MASSIVE amounts of travel.......and when coupled with proper shocks can be jumped big time and take it.......because of the travel..... However......trying to add drivelines to it is a challenge........ford's of the 80's and 90's did that.....and as mentioned the ground clearance sucks.....and becaus each beam crosses the middle of the truck......when the ruts get deep the beams just hang up and don't drop into the ruts like a subaru or other IFS type would.

I would only do them togheter if it's got a lift kit spacing the crossmember from the body. Otherwise, It's PITA Just put the trans in first...then engine. If the car has a lift kit....it would be more feasible....but on a stocker the main crossmember is too close to the top of the tunnel......the drain bolt of the front diff will hang up on the crossmember, and the clutch fork will be stabbing the firewall. Oh and the trans will puke fluid out the tailshaft while it's tilted.....so you'll have a big puddle to work in hooking up shifter and driveline.

As long as both are 2.2 engines.....all you need to do is take the 96 intake off and put it on the 94......... Oh yeah.....and then get a Dual port exhaust manifold from a 2.5 outback...... done.

You will be maxed at full extension all the time. Beat the crap out of your kidneys, handle like poop, and probably blow the lower perch off if you ever do get any uptravel. If you want to get an idea of the height.....just jack up the car til the rear wheels barely touch.....this is were it will ride all the time with those springs. He won't need to drop the diff.....the shock will still be the same length with the same mounting points. No travel or clearance gained just super stiff and maxed out extended. If you want to use those springs, cut 3/4~ 1 coil off to keep it reasonable.

+1 to both of the above ideas......espescially moving the small clamp on the inner CV boot further up the shaft (towards trans). This will prevent tearing. To lessen the overall stress, install Outback front crossmember and trans crossmember spacers and a Legacy steering coupler. 1-1/4" spacers.

Perhaps the Running lights switch on the top of the steering column is on? That would keep the running lights on.....unable to flash....and would also drain the battery. FWIW......Our 2003 LL bean H6 has a persistant code for O2 sensor bank 1 voltage issue........won't clear........tested all wiring end to end to the ECU.....replaced with new O2........code stays.......started around 170k miles and been on since (now at 230k)....... Assuming ECU problem...but since it runs we are not replacing the ECU.

here's the Spider info And some more info from the 86 FSM on the knock system and intake system

Ha.....that's awesome......I made that one and tried it out in theory....but never seen anyone actually running one. Still installing scanner software.

So......Spider intakes should have all been hotwire type.....even an 87.5...... .....How is the TPS mounted? If it's a 4 wire TPS.....it's an original spider one for the hotwire system. If it's a 3 wire one...it's for a flapper setup (just an Idle switch and a WOT switch)...but those would operate backwards rotation if placed on a spider manifold. So it would think idle at WOT and vice versa. Workin on scanning some FSMs right now.....but the TPS thing is jumpin out at me as a potential issue.

pull the valve covers and look for the adjustable/solid rockers with rollers @ the cam. That means 97 interference engine or at least heads.....if short block and pistons were changed to 96 or before type it could be free rolling if that was switched.

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If all else fails I'll trade you an OBD I harness and ECU for the 96 setup. I want you to have a runnig EJ.

You need an EA81 rack.. I've put EJ and EA82 racks in EA81s......but the problem is when you turn it alters the toe.....since the distance between inner tierod pivots and the A-arm pivots is not equal. Toe it correct for wheels forward.........but then at full lock toe inside wheel goes way to far and toe goes out. Makes for terrible tire wear.

EA82 carbed compresion is 9:1 not 8.5:1 Pretty high compression for turbo but will be fun for a while. Will smoke the 3at if you really get on it.

EJ22 heads can be swapped side ot side also......you just have to swap the cams to the correct side and swap the end cap and Cam Retainer. EJ25 heads are not reversible.

2006 has the larger AVVL head/valve setup.......he will need to lift the engine up a bit....not as much as in an outback but I can say for sure the drivers side will need the engine lifted and shifted to the side a bit.

Gaskets need to match the bore AND the coolant passages in the head. No stock gasket correctly does this. What you need are these. Cometic Part number: H1631spk051s

That caps an unused EGR port If I am not mistaken. I don't think there is coolant in there. Coolant leak is likely from somewhere else and just collecting there. Possibly the water pump seeping? and the coolant blowing back from wind while driving.

How do you have the fuel pump relay connected? Did you give the pump a seperate ground? The original ground for yours was in the MPFI ECU.

Clean and lube the advance weights in the distributor. they get sticky and hold timing too far under light loads/unloaded Also clean out the EGR ports and the Vac port that feeds it. They get cruddy and it's high NOx you are fighting so EGR will help.

A Very few GL-10s in 85 had Non-turbo MPFI. All GL turbos are MPFI........and all XT engines, turbo and N/A were MPFI.......it came with 7.7:1 ratio pistons in turbos, and 9.5:1 in the N/A. Carbed bottom end can be bolted to MPFI heads for use in the XT.....however.....PCV port at the back of the block will not be present on the Carbed block....so some PCV routing will need changed. Carbed pistons will be 9:1 ratio instead of 9.5:1 but that is negligible difference. Otherwise....the shortblocks are identical.

Whatever you do don't tie the IAC and the PCV hoses toghether.........you will get quite teh smoke show. Gotta get the all open ports capped or properly routed to run......any open port will cause unmetered air leak.......which will cause it to run for a few secs. then die.

Pilot bearing can't be pressed too far....it stops on the crank. Could well be the slave cylinder..... or it could be the clutch fork bendding/breaking......for 30 bucks I replace them when I do a clutch anymore......seen 3 broken forks this year already. Also could be one of the PP bolts backed out or broke....allowing one side of the PP to lift when depressing clutch.