Gloyale

The passenger bank can be moved without affecting spark timing. The drivers bank will affect Valve and Spark timing...... If it was the drivers bank it could be the spark advance you were feeling.

I used a piece of heater hose to sleeve my broken radius arm......rubber suspension linkage.....yeah.

sitting at a light with the clutch in won't by itself cause this......neither will shifting with the disc not fully released (if anything that's easier on the TO since it's not pushing the clutch fingers as far) IDK.....I just had a 2006 Outback Turbo in the shop with a very similar looking situation..........his TO had shredded......fortunately nothing else got blown up.....but the Daul mass flywheel was shot too....had to replace it all..............$889 in parts for an OE subaru clutch and flywheel......ouch. only 112k miles on that on......wonder if Subaru got a bad batch of TO bearings.

I put new 4x6 speakers in the dash. Kinda easy.

It will die until warmed up without an IAC.

That's a 12v power wire that's on the EJ "on" circuit. I left it so if you wanted to add anything elseyou wanted turned on by the EJ ECU......Kinda like the "amp on" on "power ant." optional connector on a stereo.

Other than the leak, I don't see anything "wrong".....that's not even a terribly worn clutch.....just used for 43k miles.

Are you using a pitch stopper? If not you need one.

Since the noise is only when the input shaft in the trans is spinning.....Im going to say it isn't the clutch....or not just the clutch at least.....It's the upper shaft rear bearing.......and likely the noise you smell is burning gear oil being slung out the input shaft seal. Trans can probably be saved if it hasn't started poping out of gear......but I would split the case and replae the upper shaft bearings and the input seal. Inspect the pinion bearing too but if it's good leave it because otherwise you have to measure and possibly reshim the case.

If the ECU can't control te idel through the IAC it will cut fuel to #1 cyl to limit over rev..... fix the other weirdness.....and clean or replace the IAC.

I don't think this is true. Still uses a 4eat with Hydraulic MPT clutch. Perhaps turn VDC off then use fuse???

Form will get better as the time goes on and the function gets all the bugs sorted out.

Whatch for the main Ig. wire....(yellow) it connects to alot of items to provide 12v switched. It's easy to cut it out cause it junctions wAAAY up by the fuse box.....not seeming to be connected to the ECU.

Dang.....VSS is the one that ussually causes the Rev limit issue. How do you have the VAC lines to the MAF and pressure source solenoid routed? switched/Vented to the Atmosphere or vented to the Evap caniste/r......they did both in different years......think your 96 should switch between intake and atmosphere. When you hook up the scanner and look at fuel bank 1 status, does it read "closed", "open", or "OPDC"? (which is "open for a driving condition"....like full throttle or no throttle fuel cut) If it never goes closed loop that would indicate an issue.

They are long travel bilsteins from a Toyota I think they are for 3" lifted 2000ish Taco's. I cut out the tops of the inner wheel well in back and extended the shock mounts up into the body.....that's the only way I could get those long shocks in there. They are not coilovers....so there is no spring to get compressed and maxed out. It's EA81 suspension with torsions. You can use the longer shocks you bought just need to make the mount point further up from the arm Not sure what you mean "stop to stop" the down travel is limited by the shock....so you can make that anything you want.....uptravel is limited by bumpstops on a stock rig but with a lift you move the arms away from the bumps so you can get more up travel but the compressed spring on the coilover stops it from going TOO far up in with the EA82............without a spring on there like EA81....and no bumpstop extension with a lift you WILL overextend when compressed up into the body.

Look inside the diff and make sure the old snap rings are not stuck in the groove in there. If they are.....just take the clips off the axle you are installing and let them pop into the ones sitting in the diff still.

Should be direct swap might want to keep the IMP manifold with the IMP car.

Carbed subaru engines are weaker and less reliable than FI. Don't know why you keep insisting otherwise........you can have it as opinion but things like HP and service intervals are fact....no disputable. There is a way to turbo a subaru........they did it already.....if Carbed turbos were so great and relaible they would make them but no one does. You need the management capabilities of FI to effectively make good, daily driveable power from a turbo engine an d keep reliability.

I do not find that part on Ebay. Part number: H1631spk051s Lots of other Cometic gaskets....but not those ones. You said you used H1631SPK040S.....which are not the same.......cooling holes in wrong place. I'd love it if they were on ebay for $99.

Where are you at? I would do this swap for you.........better to do EJ swap but whatever...your choice. When you say you have all engine wiring....do you mean ALL engine wiring from the ECU in the trunk all the way forward to the engine???

You may want to run your base timing a bit more retarted like would have been in the carbed car. That's where the difference in the cams comes in.... Vice Versa.....that's why 87 models with carbs need to run at 20 Deg. timing....not 8 like older carbs.....that's because they swapped to the SPFI cams in the 87 Carbies....... So yeah....timing will need to be optimized for that combo and 20 deg may be too much. If you get pinging retard it.

Make sure to adjust the retainer cups so that there is just a tiny bit (.010" or .25mm) backlash. Easiest way is to set it on it's side, put a finger in the drain hole and feel the ring gear while rocking it back and forth adjust til you get just a tiny bit of backlash. There is a depth adjustment for the pinion too......but that has to be made with shims before the case goes toghether.......I ussually keep whatever shims were on the pinnion that I am using.......generally it's not an issue if you set the backlash correct. Don't go with no shims or add a bunch......ussually just the one or 2 that are on the pinion will be very close to correct for a given set......even in a new case.

The shocks I used limit the droop. I set it up so that the wheels at full drop the axle is at 25 Degrees....about max according to NTNs (OE axle maker) website They drop juuuust far enough that I can jack up one side in the back, knock the pins out and remove an axle without unbolting the shock at the bottom. Just barely with a bit of prying on the diff.

NOw that's What I'm Talkin about!!! the water ports line up perfectly. gotta order a few sets.....

The VSS wire is Yellow/Red at the cluster.....and subaru provides a connector for tapping into the VSS in the wiring......there is no need to tap in behind the dash.