thatswhatshesaid

So is burning up the solenoid a legitimate worry? Is it really vulnerable and failure-prone? Has anyone ACTUALLY screwed it up, or is it pretty much a wives-tale? And what would need to be done to the center diff to make it RWD-functional and AWD-functional? I know you can weld it and make it FT-RWD, but how about a part-time deal? And how about the switch for the part-time FWD operation? Is that possible?

Yeah, I heard the updated fuel maps are good for a bit of power and MPG. I think Zap reviewed one awhile back. Headers will help, but the general consensus around here is to stay away from the Borlas. They are equal-length and sound Honda-esque. And they have a propensity to crack out. Many a horror story has been told...

The twin-stick T-case setup I'm doing in my Jeep got me thinking... Since it's possible to put in a fuse on our autos to get FWD, why not turn that into a relay of some sort...with a switch, maybe for part-time FWD/AWD? Now I know they say not to run them in FWD for long periods of time, but is it really harmful? On that note, if the rear wheels are electronically deactivated by the fuse, can we deactivate the fronts and make it FWD, RWD or AWD at the flip of a switch or two? Or does that go against the principles of the center differential? I really don't know how it works, so if someone could enlighten me, that would be great!

EA81? EA82? Just the motor? Do you also want the 6-speed? How about DCCD? It's been done, you just have to have a bunch of expendable dough and lots of time. If you have heaps of cheese to blow through on things from Japan and don't mind your car being less-than-driveabe for months, go for it. It won't be easy and it won't be cheap, but you'll have one heck of a GL. And it would be awesome to show some WRX and STi owners up at the dragstrip.

Word to what Hotshot said. He's right on the money, so to speak. If you can build a nice one for $6000, I'll fly over and drive it home next week. Seriously...I've been looking for an excuse to let my old boat of an Outback hit the bricks in favor of something quicker. Make it happen for $5k and I'm pretty sure I can get a dozen friends to purchase some of their own, too.

I'm working on it...still, has anyone measured it out?

Does anyone have the crucial measurements of an EG33? For fitment purposes (possibly going into my Outback), I'd like to get the measurements (every aspect possible). If anyone has experience swapping one of these motors into ANYTHING, I'd love to hear from you. Also, what are the measurements of my EJ25?

Where did this thread go? Hey, 99obw and porcupine73, come back! I want you to create the 4EAT DCCD!

Not sure I can make that happen...

Who is this character that saddled up and conquered the DCCD? Having that in my Outback would be a dream come true (dreams of drifting it with 300 HP on mostly RWD are filling my head)! So, what do I do? The EG33 is cheaper, and more people have made big power with them...the EZ is smaller and has more power in stock form (the late ones, at least) but is uber-expensive. What about the tranny to the EZ? Has the 6-speed to EZ been done?

I can't get a car with an EZ30 and manual tranny...that combination was never offered. I realize the EZ30 would be easier to fit, but it seems the EG33 is easier to eek out more power with. Plus, they are relatively cheap to acquire. Does the EZ30 have power goodies like the EG does?

Nice rig! I would love to get my greasy paws on one of those 'Yota diesel motors...(we don't have them in the US, in case you didn't know) Did anyone see that Toyota on Top Gear that they thrashed beyond all reason? It ran and ran and ran...pretty amazing.

I may have found an SVX with a bad interior and bad tranny, so... 3.3L Outback? (Don't bash and tell me not to destroy the SVX...I like them and all, but I need five seats and wagon versatility) So would the WRX 5-speed or STi 6-speed be viable options? I know that those are common swaps into the SVXes, so all should be well in an EJ-series car, right? Also, what should I worry about as far as wiring is concerned? (I might have to hire someone to wire it up for me, I've never done this before) Thanks, guys, - Tyler (I know I have a similar thread out there concerning an EZ30, but go ahead and give this on attention, too. I'm weighing options, here.)

Anyone? Anyone, Beuller? Beuller?

I was close to buying an EG33 locally, but ended up not being able to...so I was thinking about hunting down an EZ30 for my '00 Outback. The EJ25 runs perfectly and doesn't burn/leak any oil, I just like more power. I was also thinking of swapping in a STi 6-speed in place of my auto. Anyway, does anyone know the best place to find a solid EZ30? And how would I go about getting the wiring harness from the car it came out of?

I'll get back to you on that one...I just emptied the day's change from my pockets and I'm sure I could drop some chump change on a heated 36x36 structure for a great guy like you. Let me just get the permits underway... Anyway, someone want to volunteer? BUMPITY BUMP...

I don't really have a shop. So I can't build it myself...anyone want to make me a bumper???????

They sure look mean...and you can't beat that deal. The fairly deep voids and large lugs seem like they would perform in the mud/deep snow. Let us know how they do on the ice!

Reviews seem to look good...if you can find them in English! Anyway, they look like a good compromise between winter traction and dry-pavement driveability. Plus there's no stud hummmmmmmm to worry about. Give 'em a try and let us know!!!!

Would any of the wiring for the foglights change? It doesn't seem that it would, but I've never cracked a GT bumper open to look.

Is there anyone that builds bumpers for EJ-series cars anymore? I have seen the (beautiful) work by John, or Mudrat, or whatever he's known as. But since he is not in good standing with many board members, I'd like to steer clear of his neck of the woods. So, does anyone do this? I'll put up my Outback (2000, base model) for a guinea pig if anyone wants to try!

I've noticed similar MPG numbers in my H4 '00 Outback. I think the biggest problem must be the right foot. I can squeeze out 2MPG more per tank if I go easy on the long and skinny pedal. These big, heavy cars take a lot of juice to accelerate. Take it easy on the go-pedal and the motor can ease into cruising speed without going all the way to redline before shofting. When you boot it at the green light, she'll spin way up into the 5 mile-per-gallon RPM range. But you already knew that. Here's another thought: Go easy on the short, fat pedal, too. The friendlier you are to the brakes, the more likely it is you'll be nice to the throttle, too. I try to make stop-and-go traffic more like slow-down-and-go traffic. The huge slash in fuel economy comes from moving the big, lumbering beast from a stop. So...try not to stop. I see huge fuel economy increases when I look very carefully at every stop light, figuring out which lane to get in to be ahead of the pack and watch the adjacent lights to hit the green precisely when it switches, so I only have to slow down, not stop... Oh, and kick all your kids and car-poolers out!

The title says it. I can't figure out how do unlatch the rear center seatbelt from the ceiling. Anyone?

That's interesting - I'd like to look into the shipping...

Sweet! Get it back on the trails! Also, if those roof racks are a burden, I'd love to take all the Yakima stuff you don't need!