davebugs

Wherever you're buying them from will know. You can do some searching here. For one of them folks have had luck with the generic ones, for the other not so much luck. I usually have used ones. And if none of them work I go new OEM and am done with it. My soldering skills are a bit challanged. And the last thing I wanna be doing is playing with expensive cats because I'm not getting the correct info from an O2 sensor. But that's me.

A suby tech that I know thinks I shoudl throw one of the good 2.2's I have setting around into the buggy. It needs rebuilt/engine swap. 40 PSI in all cylinders and blows oil out of the engine due to the pressure. Like now a quart of striaght 30 weight every 30 miles? I figure Kennedy makes an adapter. But it's the plumbing and radiator that I really don't want to mess with. It's a pristine Blue Metallic (molded into the Gelcoat) so I certainly don't wanna mess with the body. The wrecked '73 I'm expecting to be the motor donor for the buggy. I also have 2 NEW longblocks that I've had since they announced closing the factory in Mexico probably better than 10 years ago. With a decent VW 1,600 it's got plenty of power. Perhaps if I find easy swap instructions I'd reconsider it. But in order to move onto the next project I'll probably jsut swap VW engines. I'll crack this one open first to see if jsut jugs/rings may be all it needs. I assume you saw the thread here where someone is putting an old style Suby engine into a 59 bug. Looks like a lot of work but he's basically done with the mechanicals. And it's looking good.

01 TDI Golf daily driver 181k. 62 sedan (VA car - low miles - been apart and primed for 15 years?), 62 single cab 24k?, 71 deluxe bus pushing 100k?, 79 triple white convertible - pushing 100k, 69 bug 22k?, street legal Blue metallic dune buggy, wrecked 73 bug. I think I'm forgetting one. May be getting a 74 Thing(local) and 64 bus(from Maryland). They even have their own "house". I've been working on too many Suby's to play with them for a few years. But I just started working on the bus recently. Now I can't get any Suby's into the garage!

Someone here will have the specs. I do them as tight as I can get them - probably 170-180 lbs but in my opinion that takes a real tool and not just a screwdriver stuck into the flex plate while the engine is in the car. I get nervous about tightening something that tight with a "make shift" solution but many here do it.

2.2's are sturdier and have less annoyances anyways (piston slappers and oil pump screws as well as HG's and Rod Knock come immediately to mind). I still drive a VW TDI everyday(181k uneventful miles) and have 7 air cooled's - in the middle of putting the engine back together for my 71 bus and am now tied up with "real" work. Been years since I totally redid a VW air cooled. This one I left the case, jugs, and heads together. It was just such a pain to pull. I was originally just gonna replace the fuel tank, leaking rear main, and clutch kit. It was such a PITA to get out of the bus that I figured I'd reseal it, clean it up after years and years of a rear main leak. The fan and shroud had about 1/4" of oil residue/dirt on them. Then I have several others that need minor maintenance. I also have sold 3 VW MARKIII's in the last month and have a 98 Golf 5 speed for sale now and perhaps a 97 GTI 5 speed(haven't decided to fix or part it). The 2.0's are bullet proof(I can get one delivered for 85.00 with a warranty), the auto tranny's and 5 speed's reverse not so much. Nothing rides or handles like a VW in my opinion. A much heavier car than even the luxury Jap cars in my mind including Acura, Infinity, Lexus - that's why I drive one. 40mpg in an automatic and expected life of 500k doesn't hurt either. I always get 200k out of Chevy's. Haven't had a Toyota or Honda in a while - but of the 2 I prefer Honda's. Just a crappy ride and handling. If you'd like some other engines to do and have an idea of the cost let me know. I'm in no hurry. After I pick them clean of most parts/sensors I scrap them. I should probably be thinning the heard anyways. ABout the time of the year to try and stuff too much stuff into the garage for the winter. Last year I had to let a wrecked 73 bug set outside that had been inside for probably 12 years. But it may be worth the trip to bring a few engines over if price and workmanship is good to see if this makes sense.

Learn to do the bearings. You can buy them all day long with bad bottom ends and HG's. If I had more expertise I'd consider it myself. But it's a hobby for me. From what I've seen the 95-99 2.5 DOHC's are bad with HG's probably leading to the bearings. Piston slap aside (it's just annoying). My only experience with 2000 2.5 SOHC was way bad. Took a few engines to get one with a good bottom end. Heck - you're in Columbus. I do probably have a dozen 2.5 DOHC's that could be split and fixed. If you're up for it, know what you're doing, and reasonable, and I have the time to do the swaps, I can probably give you one a week to do. I've got some here if you'd like to tear them down "for science sake". I'm buried with work but would gladly host a "redoing the bottom end" GTG here - I even have engines for folks that don't. But I don't know of anyone local that has the knowledge. I'd actually love to do it. A local VW tech wants to tear one down. He's thinking of doing his wife's bearings in a 2000 2.5 SOHC while he's doing HG's so he doesn't need to basically ever yank it again. I have a bad 97 2.5 for him to play with - it may actually be beyond repair.

Hey - you make it sound like I didn't warn you.... Anyone coming for a 2000 2.5 SOHC with bad bearings? I have a lady coming for front body parts in the morning. GG is correct. I have about a dozen 2.5's here with bad bearings (to varying degree's) that I use for parts. If it's just HG's I usually fix them. I also have a few 2.2's with HG issues where oil/water mixed or were overheated so I simply replaced them. Also a 97 2.2 that checked out fine in the car but had too much oil sludge for me to put in a car to sell. And a 96 2.2 that I never heard run that I pulled where the car had a fuel delivery problem I got tired of trying to solve that I had a thread about several months ago. Also a good running 95 2.2 in a car on the trailer. But I've done enough of them now and have enough repeat customers that they learned to ask for 2.2's in the Outbacks. Gary - it went pretty smooth this evening - better than expected. Also I may have another shot at a Blue 97 OBW on tuesday - probably needs an engine and I'm full up with cars and getting buried in real work. May you be interested?

I'm parting a 95 sedan now. I'll look and see if it has ABS. I removed the front bumper assy for a lady coming tomorrow to get it. I've never driven the car - the tranny went. The only one I have on the shelf is from a 99 OBW.

I'm thinking of about a foot long metal pipe that is near where the engine meets the trans on the drivers side. Perhaps it's on all Suby's and I'm mistaken. All the rubber hose mess is on the intake along with the actual EGR. Perhaps someone more firmiliar with non-EGR engines will chime in. A key question is whether the 95 2.2 is from an Automatic (has an EGR). I myself don't know about the heads.

Common issue not worth fixing. I have several radio's and folks are frequently contacting me asking about a radio with a light that works and all of mine have the same issue. I don't even check that anymore - just if they play and that the LED's are o.k. Wish it was as easy as the HVAC lights to fix.

First thought there may be an issue with the EGR metal pipe that's abotu a foot long that comes outta the block (near the bellhousing) and into the drivers side head. If it's a block from a non-EGR car it's gonna be a pain. Better post what year block you're thinking of and whether or not is has EGR.

This could be lots of things. Including rod knock. Who did the work - by that I mean did they check the oil pump screws and such?

How far and spirited did you drive it? I've had it take 100 miles or so. I'd do that first. I take a 50 mile trip to a mall. Shop, let it cool down, drive back home. This also puts 2 cycles on it to see potential codes like O2 sensor, cat, etc.

If you value your time and sanity you should get a 95-99 2.2 w/EGR. 95 is the best, 96 is next best - you'll need a single port Ypipe. 98-99 will work but you may have to spend a little time with charcoal canister plumbing. Search around here - lots of info already covered for this common swap.

Gets my vote since both don't work. If the car had airbags that light would probably be on as well.

jellyman - as GG says you need to specify exactly what years/size engines you're working with. But I'd say (along with others here) that if you're gonna make the 2.5 jump from pre 2000 2.5 DOHC to something after 2000 it's not worth the effort. And there are folks here who don't mind a good challange who have already responded. Even if the donor engine was free you'd be further ahead to buy a pre 2000 2.2 and put it in there. As stated it will physically fit. BUt as a starter the wireing connectors are different at the eng/trans bellhousing on the pass side. The pre 2000 has 3 connectors, the post 2000 has 2 connectors. So right away you're looking at an unpleasant challange (I see wireing as definately unpleasant). Then you start with all the sensors, cam/crank notches that the sensors can read, it's just much simpler to get another engine. Heck - just sell the engine you were planning on using. If it's a 2.5 you should get enough money out of it to more than pay for a 95-99 2.2 and that's a pretty easy swap.

Get the wobbly harmonic balancer checked ASAP. You could be on your way to a bit of a miserable and usually rather expensive repair if it is loose and it gets run that way for a length of time.

Now there's an understatement. I don't know how you find all of this stuff. But I certainly appreciate the links. And I'd imagine others do as well.

If it doesn't run I'm never able to get codes. Perhaps you will be luckier.

Suby's tap when put back together. MMO is great for this - don't ask me why. It was suggested here and I had never used it before. I let it warm up a few times to heat cycle it, pull coolant in. I wait until the fan kicks on then shut it off and let it cool for a long time (preferably over night). Check coolant, refill overflow to proper line. Restart it, let it warm up, take it for a drive. After a few minutes make it a "spirited" drive. With the MMO in there and a few miles of actual driving they usually quiet down. Atleast thats been my experience.

The Sea Foam is cheap and easy (just makes TONS of white smoke). Hey - it may even help clean the O2 sensor. I've done this to several cars, then put about 1k or more on them before selling them waiting to have the CEL come back on and it never did. When or if it ever came back on I can't speak to. But for the price I've had tremendous success.

I forget how many miles you said your car had - or the year - other than it's late model. But on the older ones the slave cylinders are around 50-55 bucks. Can be a bit of a pain to bleed.

Year? Miles? I've had pretty good success with the Sea Foam treatment for "catalytic performance below threshold" or whatever it's called. Others here will tell you to try an O2 sensor or two first. Do some searching.

These cars last a long time if taken care of. I fix and resell them until they hit about 200k for still decent money. They frequently go 250-300k with some care and maintenance. Perfect for College kids with the AWD, room for hauling stuff (in the wagons) and they can take a hitch for a U-haul. Keep the tires matched. When doing the timing belt do all the seals and components, and you should be fine. Only other pointer is use the regular old NGK V-groove green spark plugs - nothing exotic. If you wonder what the oil leak leaking onto the Ypipe is it's called a baffle or oil seperator plate NOT the rear main. Still have to pull the engine or trans just to redo the RTV on it. Excellent resource here. And you have an advantage in that you already use the search function (unlike a lit of Newbie's). And now folks know what area you're in.

Welcome. I do admire the fact that you found the search function and found this old thread before starting a new one. It's just a pet peeve of mine when folks don't post where they are from. There are members in your area who you may hear from now that may have a used Harmonic Balancer for instance. Or the tool to hold the balancer when tightening. The "outer" piece of the harmonic runs the accessory belts. It'll also wear into the timing belt cover if allowed to wobble. It still needs replaced. Just not quite as critical from the timing belt perspective. It alone won't ruin the engine (unless you don't get the bolt tight). But it could ruin the cover and/or not run the accessories properly. You know it's gotta totally fail soon. It still needs replaced.