Mugs

Maybe we could meet in the middle of Washington next time...that way us east siders and south eastern have a chance too. Driving five hours one way to meet for a few hours and then five hours back..makes for a long and some what wasted day. Just a thought.

BUMP..... Seriuosly no one knows anyone...come on guys help me out here

Right ...The point was to find someone down there. Why would she go to Hayden Lake, when she can have her car worked on here in Spokane by a professional suby mechanic...a-hem ME !!!!!!!! Read the post again. Then answer the question.

Hello everyone. My dads' lady friend has a 2005-7 (I think) legacy sedan. When ever she comes my way she has me work on it and do maintainence. I just did the rear brakes two months ago. She took her car into the dealership down there (the only place she goes...because she doesn't know any better) to have her 60k done they said her fronts needed replacing. I remember looking at them when I did the rears...obviously...you have to take off the tires to found out which set of brakes is squeaking, and they were fine. Plus they are trying to sell her a bunch of other crap as well, that she doesn't need becuase I have either looked at it and it was ok or have done it myself in the past. So the question is: does anybody know of a good honest, reliable, fair priced shop/mechanic that knows his way around a subaru, in the Lewiston/Clarkston Id area that I can send her to, so she doensn't keep getting hosed. Thanks.

Why yes, yes it is. The rear disc conversion came out great...thanks.

That is not nescessary..though nice to have. I justy used an XT pitch stopper and the middle piece of another one out of the junk yard. Bolted one end up, measured and cut accordingly and then welded all three "stems" side by side to each other, and it mounted it to the tranny. I think I used the EJ mount on the tranny side it had a better offeset and clearend then the stock one. Again YMMV.

Forum Name MUGS 92 NA EJ22 SOHC OBD1 Chasis 85 GL Wagon (Carbed EA82) 6in BOSS Lift Trans 5MT D/R Sachs XT6 Clutch Kit Welded Rear Diff 235/75/15 Tires 90 Isuzu Tropper Rims Drilled out EA82 PWR Sterring Rack Rear Disc Conversion Custom 2 in exhaust Custom built this and custom built that... Modified this and modified that... To make it all work together... To get a bad mamma jamma Heres a thread of the build...and will be continued to be updeated as it progress is completed. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100861

That looks alot like my adapter plate for my EA 5 Spd D/R and yes the top two holes were super thin/close togethe, whenthey were threaded. Here is what I did..and if I have time tommarrow I will take some pics to show as reference. I first clamped the adapter plate to the trans with some vise grips and measured how long of bolts I would need to bolt the top part to the trans (this include the extra length for 1 flat and 1 lock washer per bolt.) I then bought the apropriate length bolts in grade 5 because it is sheer strength and not tensil strength. For me the bolt came through a bit...but if I added another washer to it it back it up into the tread too far in my book. So I stuck with it protruding a bit and then ground the ends flush (even a little recess into the metal) with the adapter plate. Next I took off the adapter plate and measured the bolts the will come from the engine....NOTE the bolts will now have to come from the front to the back of the engine since the tranny bolts are coming from the "stock" direction...In order for this to happen you have to drill out the exisiting threads of the EJ motor ....ONLY THE TOP TWO !!!!! I then bolted up the plate (using 1 flat and 1 lock as well washer per bolt) and then ground the bolts flush with the plate on that side as well. For engine install it is easier to bolt the plate to the engine and install as a unit. Because now all you have to do is put the bolts back in the "stock" location...bolting them in from the tranny side. OH and yes I used all dowel pin as well. Two EJ and Two EA Hers a couple of pics I found in my photobucket...they may help...will try to get mor etommarrow Hope this helps. YMMV

Well I have only had it for a day and half now so I am not too sure. But no it does not rattle and no I have not noticed any additonal heat build up with it. In fact it runs pretty close to the park brake cable on the one side and it is not even "melting" so I would say it is good to go. Idealy I would like to have flipped the exhaust head flanges to face forward and then run the pipes straight up and over the engine cross member which would take the exhaust completly out of the equation as far as ground clerance issues on the approach angle. But I would need to have a different set of engine member lift blocks built with notches in them to be able clear the exhaust between the valve covers and the blocks themselves. Maybe further down the road for that though.

Well I don't know if I should continue posting in this thread or in the "what have you done to your sub lately" thread. But since it is my car and even thogh work is far and few between on it I figure here would still be the best place. So I had a buddy weld up my exhaust finally. Now I can do my skid plate and then my basket cargo carrier. Hey where did the "cats" go up and over Just dump right there...Keep it simple..right. It is so much nicer and quieter sounding w/o that big ol cherry bomb on it. We used a glass pack and then flipped it to reduce the soind even more. I may run it clear out the back thoughh... We'll se after drivign around for a week or so. Oh and the best part...It not draggin' its balls on the ground any more.

Oh crap thats like this weekend coming up...I am more out then in right now..Will have to see whats up with the logistics of things...Plus it is a 5 hour drive for me to get there.

How much to ship to the Spokane Washington (State) USA?

I am tentively in... Either will be the 85 Lifted Wagon or 96 Lego wagon... Brat wont be ready by then at all.

Man that was so sweet. Thank you for that. It made my night. I will be definitly calling my two boys over to watch it again.

Because shamefully I was a VW fan for 20 years. And type III were my favourite. I have owned 2 sqaures and 1 fast back...along with a number of other V-dubs in my day. But the squares were my fav. Tell your brother to put an EA81 or an EJ22 in it and call it a day.

If I didn;t know any better I would say that orange car is a VW Type III of some sort...perhaps a squareabck?

Right excpet these adds were for the U.S. Market...I didn't hear any NZ accent

what the chic..ya she was pretty cute..for a blonde:grin:

Who would of thought that now these are very sought after cars. And I don't think there ugly at all. I would love to have one. and what the heck is a SU-BARRO any way?

You can't be a honda guy and be here on the forum. Unless you are willing to denounce your loyalty to one and pledge it us. I will be haunting you in your sleep until you do WELCOME. You have now reached the dark side and found the missing link in your heart felt car needs.

I did not read all the post. But I will have to agree with the general thought. And that is yes spend you time on EA71/81 engines. I would much rather rebuild my HL EA81 then an EJ and or EA82 plus it is way harder to come by a HL EA81 then just going to the junk yard. A 71 or 61 even harder to come by.

Well There GLoyale I am not going to argue with you. I had the block spit in about 15 min via undoing the rod bolts. I could not even get to retainer ring on the far side with my longest (Mac Python plires) but I can and understand how it is done. And my sole purpose was to get the crank out for a template/ R & D. So no I did not have the "proper tool" (imagine that a profesional mechanic w/o the right tool) then again when your on flat rate you don't get paid/ it cost the customer more the rebild the motor then to just R &R it. Any way some day I would like to try and re-build a moter just for yucks but this was my own personal thing and I was just experimenting and making stuff that I neded the crank out for.

Some will tell you that you have to take out the wirst pins via thes holes in the ends of the block. That is a a major major major pain and I have never been successful at it. The way to split the case is start to sperate it until it gets "floppy" then just start taking off the rod bolts (keeping them in order of course) untill you have the pistons disconecte from one side of the block. Pull the half off and then the rest is easy as pie. Or you can save yourself a whole lot of head ache and go to your local JY and get an engine out of a car (they go for about 125 here) and then buy the re-seal and timing kits from eother e-bay or other reputable sites mentioned on this forum (you be out about (300 buck tops for everything tbelt kit, pulleys, h20 pump, and seals) Then if you want to "see" how subies are put together save the old block and tear it down later. P.S. I was a vw guy for twenty years..now I frikin hate the things and wonder why I ever messed with them. This hate came in part buy me having to work on them professionally and watching them get worked on for about a year or so.

Cool, but I want the Libero buggy in the other video, or just a Libero in general would be cool

Get a-hold of "The Beast I Drive" for the "pre made" lift. His lifts are outstanding and he does supurb work. SJR lifts are another reputable lift outfit and he is here on the board as well. "Scott in Bellingham" is his name. Welcome to the BRAT club, and the forum.