cobcob

'82 Brat, Hitachi carb, 4spd s/r, running whatever octane is cheapest, 26.4mpg average, 90% highway 10% city Haven't tuned it up other than putting a set of spark plugs in and checking the timing. I saw an increase in mileage a little when I replaced the exhaust manifold gaskets. Trialling it at lower speeds now (running 55mph on the freeway) and eggshells under the right foot.

So I'm about to park the '82 Brat and get down to some rust abatement. The fenders in the bed are not a concern, that's documented pretty well. My biggest area of concern is right here: Not really sure how to tackle that one!! Anyone got some advice?

Bumpolio

SPFI - Single Port (or point) Fuel Injection - has 1 injector on the throttle body and services all 4 cylinders MPFI - Multi Port (or point) Fuel Injection - has 1 injector per cylinder and they are located out near the spark plugs instead of on the throttle body. There's not a lot of rocket surgery involved in that air filter. Worst case you could duct tape it in place to get you by. To my eye it looks like that Nissan adapter would work or could easily be modded to work with the Subie intake. Sounds like your clutch is either in serious need of adjustment, worn, or your synchros are going out. Check the fluid in the trans, try adding a dose of Rislone engine treatment to the transmission and run it like that, it's reported to have good results in loosening stuck synchros. +1 on the new mechanic.

I'm no XT expert at all so others can probably tell you just from that info if it has an LSD or not... Either way I'd check the sticker on the rear diff just to be certain! Good find though!!

Not true... could be an EFI conversion on an EA81

No reason to be concerned that it has EFI, that's actually a good thing! (if done properly) Someone took the time to upgrade the fuel delivery system on it... Welcome to the forum!! Cram a filter on that baby and let 'er rip!

Love that blowoff valve!!

**bump**

Word on the street from a great friend of mine who drives 18wheelers is that the car haulers drive solo so he'll have to stop every 10 hours for a break. Also he's of the opinion that they'll come I80 across.

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Mitch-breaks-the-800hp-mark-in-his-04-STi_122625.htm Discuss amongst yourselves

Didn't it just come out of a hole though??

**Bump** Someone has to have an EJ pulley or crank laying around someplace?

Hey, can anyone get me dimensions off an EJ series engine?? I need to know what the diameter of the shaft is where the main crank pulley bolts up and also what the dimensions of that key are... If you've got a spare EJ crank pulley laying around then the dimensions off that would work just fine! Thanks!

maybe a little inflated in price but I'd buy it

I seem to recall reading a report about the classifications of motor oil and that as long as the oil has a certain logo on the bottle then it is to the specs of whatever the certifying group is The logo is that round red seal with the black ring around it directly below the 'X' in GTX. Basically, a store brand 10-30 with that seal and a "Name" brand 10-30 are going to be the same in basic chemical composition the "name" brand may (or may just claim to) have some additives for cleaning or whatever but in terms of basic lubrication they are the same.

13" of engine holding power dude!!

Too bad my EA82T doesn't run isn't it! darn headgaskets and a nasty heavy knocking going on makes one think it's kaput... Here's my nice clean engine, it's still in the garage though, not in a car yet

No kidding that puppy's clean!!

daggum... the S600! I've got 2 of them back in OZ in the process of restoration actually. One Roadster and a Coupe Here's an S600 beside an S200 Red line on them is somewhere in the neighborhood of 9500+ and they've been known to hold 13,000+ RPM without a problem. Needlebearings on the crank, 1 carb per cylinder... I freaking love 'em!!

498 027 000 - the Y shaped tool with 2 pins on the end. There was another type made which was a 1/4" thick round plate with 4 pins on it (each goes into one of the holes on the sprocket and there's a boss in the middle with a 3/8" square hole broached in it for installing onto your torque wrench. Here's one that I'm building, just had it cut on the waterjet machine at work, I've deleted the boss with the broached hole so I can just put it on the end of the torque wrench and get it into place a little easier. I'm going to get some SS cap head bolts and turn the thread off the ends of them, leaving about 1/4" of thread near the head and then loctite them into place It's turned out pretty well so far, a little de-burring and thread the 4 holes and I'll be done! It's a lot heavier than the one I took measurements off of, this one is made out of polished stainless (it's what we had laying around) and the original was aluminum.

Guess it's personal preference. Way I see it, if the tool is available then use it cos it was intended for a specific purpose and job. I've got 2 of them coming out of the waterjet machine at work first thing in the morning, one for my tool box and one for a friend's

While you don't HAVE to have one it makes it easier to get the right tension on them! I've got a CAD drawing of one and could probably get one fabbed up pretty quick if you wanted one.

Tow strap over the whole truck, front to back, concrete block on one end, Subie on the other. 4Lo and hammer down... Caution, may dent, damage, or otherwise destroy truck... that'll give you an excuse to get a Brat though

Awesome news dude!! You decided what trans you're going to go with?