cobcob

Hell yeah!! get Mellow or HYRYSC to come along too and we can make it a regular 3 stooges flick!

Problem most likely with your switch. do a search for relay and starter, you'll find a ton of info about wiring a relay in so you can start her up

She's been bought... Taking posession on Saturday morning:clap: 1988 GL wagon, 5spd pushbutton, SPFI. Rolling on 13" rims that I haven't been able to identify as yet... (I think they're 13" factory steels) I'm going to take out the timing belts that he installed and start fresh on the repairs. Probably about 20 mins worth of work I'm hoping! Should be driving her next week

You've got mail Sir! I had to break it up into 4 files because the first email bounced (13mb attachment was too much apparantly

Possibly some of the best news I've had in a while! Looks like I'ma gonna have me a wagon to lift soon!

I've got a decent collection of pics of WRX's in rally mode, PM me with your email address and I'll send you a zip file of them... They're some awesome shots of '03 and '04s as well as a mixed bag of other vehicles in there

I think I'm going to look at it tonight, probably give him a deposit and then haul it home on Saturday if it's as clean as he claims... That said, the price is right enough that even if she's a bit rusty I can still drive the heck out of her without any real concerns:clap:

I'm going to look at an EA82 wagon this week. Seller reports: "Has around 165K broke 1 of the timing belts --no valve damage -- New belts and tensioner installed but can't get 1 side to fire properly Will run on 2 cyl Has compression on all cylinders and seems to show spark" I'm suspecting that there's a good chance that he's either slipped a tooth or got the cam 180* out when he installed the new belt. Anyone got any other suggestions for what to look for?

Hyrysc Mellow Yellow Mykingcrab Bluebaru

+1 on the awesome paint scheme! Can't go past OD for looks! Digging the headlight protection there. If it was me I'd throw some wire mesh in there too (painted black) for some stone/road debris protection:headbang:

From personal experience, the Sidekick/Tracker is quite capable off road. Don't let the IFS concern you if you are only interested in a few additional inches. You can easily lift them with some coil spacers and a set of shocks for the rear (from a crown vic no less!!) Your big limitation on that vehicle will be the amount that you can lift without screwing up your axle angles and getting your CVs all bound up. There ARE fiberglass shells out there for the soft top Trackers. I've heard great reports on the gas mileage out of the 5MT ones and they're certainly capable of hauling a LOT more than you would think!

Well now, I ain't one to brag...

Ask Mykingcrab about how quick my Brat is on the dirt roads... I was walking away from his EA82T RX!

I think on the packaging for most relays it says that 87 or 87A can provide power to the lights but it doesn't specify the switched state... No biggie though

Share the love/specs... Where'd you find them at and *gulp* what is the going price for a set? I reckon my '82 Brat is about due for a headlight upgrade

60+ miles a day in my '82, 5 days a week, the SAME people (driving their outbacks, Imprezas, Legacys, and Loyales) always wrench their necks as I jet past on the highway and NO... My El Camino DID NOT shrink when I washed it!

True nuff... if your lights are wired to a circuit that is normally off when the key is off. I have all of my lights wired direct off the battery so I CAN run them when the key is off if the need arises (not for long admittedly, I can put a hurting on the battery real quick with all my stuff lit up) but you never know what you might need to do in case of an emergency

Possibly just a difference in tread thickness from the A/T's to the 13" tires? I've seen a lot of Coopers on the road and haven't heard a lot of complaints

Correct, you realistically can wire your lights to whichever you chose... if you're installing a seperate switch for the lights then the only difference it will make is what position the switch is in when the lights are on... If you're like me and have more than one set of additional lights then you might not want to pop the dash panel off AGAIN when you test things and realize that one switch is up and the other down when the 2 sets of lights are on... simply switch the light connection from 87 to 87A and your switch positions will match up and look pretty

That diagram is incorrect in the labelling... it should read EITHER 87 OR 87A go to your lights. You will run both lights off one terminal. If you got a set of fogs with a wiring harness included one of the wires should have a large terminal on one end that allows you to plug both positive leads from your lights into it

Googled "relay basics" http://www.teamrocs.com/technical/pages/relay_basics.htm "87 and 87a are the two contacts to which 30 will connect. If the coil is not activated, 30 will always be connected to 87a. Think of that pin as "87, always connected". When current is applied to the coil, 30 is connected to 87. 87 and 87a are never connected to each other."

IIRC the 87 and 87A have different "normal" states... the outer one (87 I think) is normally off (switch off, no power at 87) 87A is normally on (switch off, power at 87A)

I'd like to propose a small addition to NUG's "Wheel bearings: A Photo Essay" in the USRM... A small note at the bottom or top listing the P/N or ID number for the bearings used in the fronts (6207) should help people out with sourcing the correct bearings. Incidentally, the specs on the bearings that O'Reilly Auto Parts has listed for the fronts are as follows: I.D. = 1.3780 (35mm) O.D. = 2.8346 (72mm) Width = .6693 (17mm) 9 x 7/16 balls.

It's not terribly common but it happened on a road grader that came into the auto electrician shop I worked at in Australia. Cheap switch running 4 driving lights, lots of on/off cycles each 'day' (it was mostly run at night) Always better to be safe than sorry eh?

True... That said, 90% of the switches that come with the lighting kits that you get at Wal Mart etc. are far too light duty to handle the DC arc that will pop between contacts when the switch is thrown. If the contacts get worn to a point that the spark is large enough then you have potential for the switch housing etc. to melt and catch alight. Seen it before and it's not pretty. Admittedly that was in a situation where there were a LOT of switching cycles on that switch each day but no fuse will help you out if that happens... The only switch that I would run in place of a relay is from an industrial control unit and is good for 130amps @ 220v... the contacts in that are pure beefcake...