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How many miles are on the car? Is the CEL illuminated? Any other work recently done on the vehicle? How about after the car is warmed up and say you stop at a stop sign in gear will it idle normally? Is this a manual or automatic trans? Some things that come to mind off the info youve provided are the IAC valve, EGR , Coolant Temp Sensor....

You can get those cabin filters on Ebay for under $10.00...They are extremely simple to change yourself...located right behind the glove box its a couple of phillips head screws...Ive pulled cabin filters out at 15k mile intervals that look absolutely atrocious covered with dirt,leaves,dust you name it...Personally I would prob change it once a year except neither of my subarus have them...Just think of it this way that is the air your breathing...AH I just noticed you have a Forester...They are the easiest to change believe me Ive done dozens and dozens of them...glove box should pop right out...Now the ones for the Tribeca are a little bit of a bear...

I think they went to mechanical lash adjusters in 97... My bet for sure 95 and 96 2.2's should work...I dont feel confident in saying other EJ22's will work however they might....I have a feeling GrossGary might be the one to ask on this question.....

You might have to go to the dealer and have them hook up the select monitor to register the new key...I ran into this a while ago on an 07 WRX when a kid fried his ECU and got a replacement complaining of a crank no start....As mentioned you might also want to put a posting over on NASIOC or ClubWRX..

You could always try pulling the rocker shaft assembly and bleeding the HLA's...Personally that's what I would try to do first because I'm a tight wad..lol...Have you tried like the marvels mystery oil or the sea foam treatment at all?...I had that annoying little tick on my 96 Legacy L EJ22 with 202,000 miles and I tried the Sea foam deal a little while back and Ive barely heard anything in the past few thousand miles...

Personally I wouldn't feel comfortable getting the o-rings somewhere else even if you can closely match them up...Personally I view these as a "dealer only" item...The last thing you want obviously is that other injector leaking....

Take a look here this might be of some help... http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/SuppRestFall01.pdf

+1^...Those bolts break VERY easily...just be careful not to over torque...

+1 ^..thankfully you have a non-interference motor....Use the hash mark on the crank sprocket not the arrow....take a look here.... http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2SingleOverWin01.pdf

Personally I put straight pipes on My 96 Legacy and I love it...Inexpensive and honestly I swear I can feel a little more pick up....However You could always go out and buy an STI...

What I used to do was take like a pry bar and just jam it in between the cam sprocket spokes..that worked well for me...Ive also used a strap wrench which has worked well also....However If your going to try the pry bar method just be kind of careful not to nick or break the cam sprocket...

Ive seen a couple of them....#1 I Will say some of them look really cool!.. But obviously thats not why people them....As others have mentioned If your just getting a grounding kit to sure up the grounds Personally I would just go around and clean/tighten all your ground connections...Any specific problems your experiencing?

Yeah I mean you can leave it I guess..but personally I couldnt stand it....lol...thats very odd though..you replaced the thermostat, CTS and radiator and it still does it....you know I would say its like a stuck relay except what are the chances all 4 fan realys would stick let alone at the same time...lol..Im sure you double checked this but all the air is out of the system right?

Any animals in there? Ive actually seen techs before pull dead snakes out of there so I do feel for you dude...

SO....IF you start the car and let it get up to operating temperature (according to the gauge) and the fans come on...do they cycle off or no?..have you replaced the thermostat recently? If so did you use an OEM one? Have you done any other cooling system work besides the coolant temp sensor?...How new are the water pump and radiator? any coolant leaks?..Personally from the info youve given it kind of sounds like a stuck thermostat to me...I recently had a similar problem on my 96 Legacy with some aftermarket junk thermostat the previous owner installed and was stuck...The fans would cycle on just like normal and they wouldnt ever shut off....Is the CEL illuminated?

http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/QTEC/index.php Check these out I have one of these on my WRX.. I have the stock headers, rotated,catless UP, 3" DP, than the cutout right at the end of the downpipe, High flow cat, 3"midpipe, and a magnaflow muffler...Let me say Im not to sure about your emissions laws and sound pollution laws and whatnot but I can say if you get a cutout and install it right after the downpipe it is pretty cool....you can hear the turbo spool like no other not to mention the whole car shakes when its open And quit as a mouse when you want it...the best of both worlds...

well if your brave enough stick your hand in where the blower fan came out of and just pull the stuff out thats what i did with my 96 Legacy..I had a very similar looking Evaporator blockage...Or if you have compressed shop air...stick a blow gun in there...that will get kind of messy though...

Not to sure if you have AC or not...im assuming you do...I Believe there are 3 fan relays in the fuse box under the hood (main fan relays #1 and 2 and Sub fan relay #1) and one up under the kick panel above the fuse box in the vehicle on the drivers side next to the FP relay and main relay (sub fan relay #2)...At least that is how they are arranged on my 96 Legacy.....There should be a fuse for the fans, no?

Dont take a chance on it its not worth sitting on the side of the road when your t-belt skips or worse...bent valves if it happens to be on an interference engine...Believe me the first time I did the T-belt on my 96 Legacy EJ22 I didnt do this step and the belt skipped...repositioned the t-belt and installed the tensioner properly and have been problem free...knock on wood...

Ive seen bad inner DOJ's cause some odd problems...Ok you described it as a squeal, a clicking, and a grinding noise...which one does it most closley resemble?..Remember it is difficult to diagnoise noises and such online fore we cant touch/hear/see the vehicle so where going off what you say.......I would pop under the vehicle and do a thorough visual and maybe shake down the front end and see if you notice anything there...Thats alot of miles so really you cant kind of rule anything out....

these cars can throw IAC codes for a carboned up throttle body..You could try giving the TB a good cleaning...Also obviously as mentioned clean the IAC and take some 2+2 and spray it around the vacuum lines with the vehicle running to check for vacuum leaks...Which IAC code is it? How many miles are on the vehicle?

Ive driven STI's with the STS and personally I have a kartboy in my WRX...being completely honest (when compared to my kartboy) I didnt even notice that STI had the short throw until someone told me...If I where you I would go with the Kartboy I have a feeling you will be much happier..

that looks like the vacuum line that goes to the fuel pressure regulator...

Sorry to hear your luck...We had a similar problem kind of a while back...someone brought I believe an 05 Legacy GT in and complained of the turbo glowing red...This specific customer had a turbo-back exhaust...we tried and tried to duplicate the problem and checked over the vehicle thoroughly AF ratio's and everything...however we could not duplicate the problem...sent the customer on there way and a few weeks later comes back with a rod knock...I have no idea if the two instances where related but we ended up installing a new short block and havent seen the customer since (knock on wood)...Doesnt really sound like the same problem/luck your having but I thought I would be good to know that others have problems with there newer vehicles also....(Ive also seen 09 foresters and tribecas have internal engine failure)

You should feel it bottom out once your in all the way...What year vehicle? Once you remove the hub from the car and press the old bearing out of the car you should be installing the new bearing in the car..not on the hub which was removed....