94Loyale

When you set the key to the run position, does your check engine light come on? If not, then look under the panel where the steering column is. Find the ECU and unbolt it. Should be 3, 12mm nuts. Unplug it and move it out of your way. Above where the ECU was should be a Brown plastic relay looking thing. You might have to look around for it. This may be your problem if your CE light does not come on, if it does, disregard anything I'm saying. When you find it, hook the ECU back up, and turn the key to the run postion. You should feel that relay click. Let me know what happens.

The rust is horrible around here. Last week at work, I'd say about 3 cars I had to remove the sliders in the method I was talking about, just seized up that bad. :-\

Torch to heat it up real hot, and an air hammer to knock it out. Have the air hammer ready, as soon as you take the heat off it, start hammering. I've never had a problem doing it that way, quick and easy. I just did one today that sounded like a gun shot too,haha.

Agreed, frozen bolts are not fun. 99% of the time I have no problem with the caliper bolt (should only be one 14mm on the front) But the caliper/brake pad holder bolts can be a real pain. The hole that the bolt goes through is too tight of a fit. I always slightly ream that hole out so that the bolt slides through nicely, and then anti-seize it for next time. One problem with aftermarket pads though can be the fit. Before installing new pads, clean the sliders (the thin metal things the brake pads slide into) with a wire wheel, and make sure the pads slide nicely when you install them. Almost every other set of pads I have to file down in order to slide properly. Otherwise your brakes will wear prematurely, and not stop as well. And as someone else stated, never let the caliper hang by the brake line. I just hang it on the axle.

It's real easy to do Once you get the calipers out of the way by pulling the 14mm bolt out. The pad holder is held on by two 17mm bolts on the back. (Anti-sieze these when you put them back in, sometimes they stick pretty good over time). Once you pull the pad holder out the rotor is free. If it's stuck, just tap it with a hammer between the wheel studs. Edit- Yes, changing pads is the same process between ABS and non-ABS

Also, when refilling the coolant. The best way I've found is to remove the upper hose from the radiator side. And fill the motor up with coolant first. Dump the coolant right down the hose into the motor first, it will take just about a gallon to fill up. Then reinstall the hose to the radiator and fill that up also. Then bleed like everyone else said. This way you ensure that the motor is filled with coolant first, and won't overheat.

I don't rotate the motor either. Installing both belts at the same time never gave me a problem. Like GD said, you just have to be careful. I just did them yesterday on the GL10

I would say definately a bad axle. It's got all the signs of it. Especially when you say it clicks when you turn and vibrates.

Well, I'll have to check some of that stuff out then. Thanks alot for the advice :-) My internet is all screwed up so I'm having trouble getting online lately.

Hey guys, just recently I had picked up a 99 Outback with a 96 2.2 swapped into it. The motor was rebuilt about 50k ago, so the previous owner said. By the way it runs and how clean everything is, I would have to agree. That, and whenever I change the oil it comes out looking almost new. I just recently did the timing belt and water pump, along with all the timing pulleys, about a month ago I think. Probably put on about 2k since then. Within the past 2 weeks on occasion it has been making a noise that sounds just like an ea82 lifter tap. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. Any idea's what it might be? I didn't think these made much valvetrain noise. The car is automatic if anyone cares, and is not down on power at all. A few days ago it picked up a check engine light that stays on, but I haven't gotten a chance to scan it. Could it also be that I just happened to get a bad timing belt idler that went out already? Any ideas are appreciated.

Heat, Moisture, tank venting, and the amount of fuel in the tank. All contribute for sure.

Well, I have no experience with the Hitachi's at all. But I had problems similar to that with Rochester 2 jet's (on some of my previous GM products ) It was always the floats on them. I'm sure someone with some valuable info will chime in though,haha.

Screwbaru, I didn't mean to sound like an rump roast. If I did, I apologize. Regardless of whether the problem was before or after the parts. (I may have read the post wrong). Yank the o2 sensor wire connection and give it a run. Let us know what happens, I'm curious now

Screwbaru, I would lean towards the parts he just replaced also. I just threw the o2 idea out there just because of the symptoms. However if he does unplug it, it will keep the car running in open loop. It won't make it to closed loop due to no input from the o2 sensor.

If it were me, since you said it runs well until it warms up. I would unplug the O2 sensor and see how it runs then. I've had many cars do that. And if you unplug the o2, the car will just run in open loop. If it runs well the whole time with it disconnected, then you know what the problem is. It's worth a try.

I've got a 99 Outback. My low's with the fogs are actually really nice. However the high beams suck, and I never use them,haha.

Well, as far as old gas goes....I've got plenty of experience with that. As my job, I am a BMW and Triumph motorcycle tech. During the winter months up here is when I get all the project bikes to work on. The older ones that have been sitting forever. After cleaning many fuel tanks and cleaning carbs up. Old gas reaks havoc on all of it. It turns into a varnish kind of stuff. Real sticky. But especially with carbs. It clogs up all your ports and jets and makes things real hard to run, if you can get them to run at all. That's why if your going to let something sit, you should drain the bowls on the carbs. But I'm getting off subject, and its late. When taking fuel tanks off to clean, I've had petcocks blocked solid and uncleanable. This could be after just a few years, or 20 years. It all depends on how much gas was left in the bike, and the environment it was stored in. I know I'm speaking about bikes here, but the technology goes hand in hand. As far as cars go...I've got cars to run that have been sitting for years, and they ran decent. As I said before it all depends on the conditions. And I've had ones that wouldn't run at all. The gas goes bad, and everything gets messy and stuck. I've never had as much of an issue with fuel injected stuff that sits as carbs, but that is for obvious reasons. As the carb has much smaller parts, and plenty of places for the fuel to sit. Also, as the gas gets old, it does not fire as easily, and will generally make the vehicle run like ************. But like someone else already said, gas is a solvent. If you add some new gas to the system it will definately help to clean things up. Pardon my rant, its been a long day, 9 to 10! and I just got back from the bar

Listen to Gary, he definately knows what he is talking about. As far as what he was saying about the 2.2 in an Outback and missing the extra power. I have a 99 Outback with the EJ22 swapped into it, automatic. And it runs great, and the power is just fine for the car. It's no speed demon or anything, but it goes well for what it is.

Definitely time to seal things up. Because oil and stuff on that belt will really weaken it. And you don't want worse to happen if you let it go.

Why not...[ATTACH]5828[/ATTACH] Edit...Since I don't seem to have the hang of attaching pictures, click on the small pic to get a bigger one :-)

Since its an EJ25, is it possible it's piston slap that he hears? Or am I way off,haha. I really haven't played with the 2.5's.

Perhaps not this weekend...too many 4th of July parties, not enough junkyard time, haha

When I do get around to it, I'll post some before and after pics. I'd like to see what you guys think!

John, I'll be in touch whenever I get around to doing this,haha. But I will let you know for sure pretty soon here. Maybe I'll do it on the long weekend this week.

haha, yep, you read my mind. Your not very far away from me, so you know how it is around here. No need to shop around for any. I've got 4 yards within 15 minutes of me.