pksjeep

Check for a fitting around the carb with a wire sticking out of the end of it. I don't remember the exact location but it think it is in the front. This is an anti diesel device. I had a spot where the wire insulation broke and caused a ground it kills the car completely. Could be yours is rattling around an causing some issues. Paul

Count me in, I plan to attend. Paul

This looks like the one I have on my 86 brat. It attaches using a couple of angle brackets attached to the round bosses on the sides and screwed in into some of the mounts that hold on the chrome bar onunder the radiator. Then It is also bolts to the two tow mounts . Paul

Hate to be a nay sayer , but Fridays might be tough for people to make it. Saturday may be a better day. I would probably attend if it was after 6.00 in the evening on Friday. Paul

I would attend if it was on a weekend, I am in Spokane.

These look like ATV adaptors and may not be suitable for the road. I had some made up at classiccarperformance@gmail.com <classiccarperformance@gmail.com>in 2010. I have not used them but are 1"" thick. It looks like they will make the wheel stick out past the fender about 1" Here is what I got Bolt pattern on car 4 x 140 Wheel bolt pattern 4 x 114.3 Thickness 1 Inch Hub dia on car 3.705 adaptor bore dia ??? (Maybe 3.715

I have never driven without the rear driveshaft, but you would have two issues that I can think of: First you would possibly get a lot of dirt in the transmission. Second I am sure the trans would spray oil everywhere and possibly run dry. Both cases could cause the trans to fail. I would say this is not a good idea unless this is the only option.

I would probably attend also depending on the date.:

I would look around the master cylinder. You could also be possibly be pulling the fluid thru the break booster and burning it.

You might try to lube the rubber parts on the front end. Try liquid dish soap and water. If this works use something suitable for rubber that wont destroy the rubber component.

I had intermittent problems with my blinker light. The problem occurred in the winter months only. My solution was to clean the connecter and coat it with silicone grease to keep out the moisture. I also cleaned and coated the socket. I would test to see if you are getting power to the connector. If you are them check the wiring back to the light. If not head up to the dash area.The problem could be as simple as a corroded ground connector.

I have a 86 Brat. When I go down the road the steering Wheel wants to wiggle back and forth. It does not happen on acceleration or braking,mostly just like going down the road, and I doesn't happen all the time. My transmission levers on the inside move up and down under acceleration and breaking. I have looked at the front end and everything looks tight. I don't have any clicking on tight turns. I can push the transmission around a little from under the car. All the motor mounts and trans mounts look OK but are soaked by oil from years of a leaking engine. Could soft rubber allow the engine/trans assembly to shift and causer the shaking.

Also pay attention to the top plate direction when you pull the strut out, you have the 2 bolt system. There is some verbiage on the top plate that tells you which way it needs to be installed. I think it goes one way for 4 wheel drive and turned 180 degrees for 2 wheel drive. I don't remember what is stamped on the top plate.

Could be as simple as a bad ground. I have pulled fan motors out and tested them and the worked OK only to find out the ground was bad. Do as GD suggested and if it this doesn't work, use a wire to between a steel part on the fan housing/motor and any metal body part. Also test at the connector to see if you are getting power there.:

I don't think the spine would strip out at the steering wheel. I would look at the other end where it connects to the rack and pinion. Possibly it came loose at one of the joints. If your spine at the wheel did strip out I think you would be in for a new column and steering wheel. I have never pulled a Subaru steering wheel, but when you remove the nut and you see bolt holes you probably need a wheel puller to remove it. Paul

The pin is made from spring steel and may be as hard as the drill bit. If you decide to drill it be careful so you don't break the bit in side of it.

Don't spend any time or money until you get the title in hand. I have a friend that was in the same situation (no title/bill of sale) and the police took the car because they said it was reported stolen and he was out the cash for buying it. He bought it at an estate sale and it seamed like a legitimate deal. I think the previous owner just wanted it back. To my knowledge the title owner has all the rights.

I 've been free loading for some time now,:eek:I didn't realize how these sights work thanks for the cost breakdown. ALSO Thanks for your efforts in keeping this sight up it truly has some great information. :grin:Hopefully you got my donation.

I would possibly be interested in a tan one to fit an 86 Brat. What are you planning to charge?

I have an 86 Brat and the same thing happened to me but on the left rear side. I noticed it usually happened in the winter when there was moisture in the air. I cleaned the wire connectors and put some dielectric grease in them and around the bulb base. This seamed to cure my problem. Make sure you feel a little pressure from, the spring pushing the connector up against the bottom of the bulb, there may be something going on there. I don't remember if there was a ground wire near by but make sure it has a good connection there also. Hope you figure out the problem Paul

I have 1986 Brat. I want to do the 5 speed conversion. The brat has 3.90 gears 1. Is there any way to tell what the 5 speed transmission has for the front differential gears, if you don't have the donor car around? :-\ 2. Do you have to make any modifications to the tunnel area on a non lifted 2nd gen Brat?

It looks like you have done all the fundamental checks. If you haven't tuned the car up in a while your spark plugs could be shot. Sometimes they fire great outside the engine, but under the compression they don't fire properly. Hope this solves you problem Paul

1. I have the parts to do the rear disc brake conversion. However I am concerned about leaving the connection between the steel tube and the rubber hose free. Has has anyone had problems with leaks in this area, or the tube breaking. The factory has a mount on the arm to hold it in place. :-\ 2. I plan on drilling the hubs for a 6 lug conversion. It looks like the holes will come close the the mount for the rotor. Has any one had cracking issues in this area over time?:

I got a new one for my 86 Brat a couple years ago from Spaulding auto parts in Spokane Washington. It was about $120.00 with a lifetime guarantee. The radiator wasn't an exact OEM replacement, but it bolted in and worked fine. At the time Schucks and Napa could also get them, but they were not in stock. Paul

Has anyone drilled a 6 lug alloy wheel for the 4 lug conversion? Is there some reason not to drill an alloy wheel? It looks like most people are drilling steel wheels only.