True2Blue

as long as it doesnt do it when its warm your in the clear for now and i have never in my life heard an axle squeak ive heard bearings do it but by then your pulling over vid on the squeak would be nice

starup issue... you say once you give it gas it dies out? if so could be carb needing cleaned/adjusted or disty adjustment sounds like a carb issue tho.. are you biddies with GD? i think hes the closest to you. or else i say come on over and get it fix up. do you have photo/video skills and tools? (camera with video capability)

ive read the ej22 franken motor stuff, ive also seen the wrx 2.0 swaps now if YOU (the reader) were to swap an EJ engine into your subaru what would it be? if you dont have an opinion then use this: 1987 4" lifted GL wagon you choose engine and transmission what i would like to do to the 1987 lifted gl: obtain "high performance" 2.2 engine a 4.11 modded d/r if you were to piece together your engine what crank, crank bearings, rod bearing, rods, pistons, rings, valves, valve springs, cams, ecu? would you GD what "franken motor" would you build for "fun" (i hate saying motor cause motors are ELECTRIC grandpa use to get on my case about that engine=fuel motor=electricity)

wow is there seriously no one around maple valley auburn enumclaw area? or no one that wants to be friendly

do it yourself (pull it, level out the cracks, "prep" it) then take it to line-x line-x has a huge variety of options flats gloss metallic's all colors grit and smooth finnish

you gotta be ************tin me: i dont get it? i do though, very well. IF they (a -arm and strut, or trailing arm and strut) are spaced the same 4" on strut and 4" on arm (cross member) then there is no change in camber just ride height. overall suspension clearance is gained with bigger wheels . if that were the case (everything was lowered equally) there would be no added positive camber! or post about fixing it......... but there is soooooo heres your solution for finding the angle first is for the non math loving folk... use your front driver side wheel get a true (straight) edge and a protractor Vertically place the straight edge on the wheel (id does not have to be centered just flat against the wheel) Take your protractor and place it flat on the ground with its origin at the bottom of your flat edge. 90 degrees is 0 camber ONLY use 0-90 when figuring. positive camber looks like this \ / negative... / \ in your case its positive... there is an easier way no ruler or protractor just a tape measure and calculator measure from the top 'outside' face of the wheel to the ground. mark it. i use a square looks like a L. then measure horizontally from the bottom outside face of the wheel (where rubber meets the ground) along the ground to the mark you just made now devide the horizontal measurement by the vertical (in degree mode) and what your given is an inverse tangent. your camber angle... can post pics of process if need be. now you know your camber angle in degrees... How the F*** do you fix it right... well if you lengthen your arms youll be zeroing the camber out but important things wont stretch with it. the easiest way i can see this problem being resolved without leveling out your cross member is to re construct your towers (unless your tower spacers are not maxed out yet and you have play). bringing the top of your struts inward. there will be extreme angles on ball joint and axle joints but your tires wont touch clap if you catch air

dude im in washington lol same time.. i have work at 6:30 but im good to go with a full throttle oh and if wont go dont force it.. take pics and upload them.. im subscribed to this thread.. ill be in the shop all day wrenching on a pos honda which means ill be near my computer

i am no expert (yet) the two upper screws come out then its willpull down the bottom of the plastic has little tabs that keep it in place to top will come down then it will pull right out ill do some searching to make sure im correct. you will know if thats not how it goes

dont quote me but i believe there are two phillips screws on the upper inside lip of the cluster housing once youve pulled the plastic then the cluster will be open exposing its mounting points i believe its 4 screws and your golden there may be more i may be wrong but youll know in a few hours for sure.. i took a dash like that apart this year but it was at a JY and i didnt plan on slappin it back together so i didnt bother to remember anything

lol yea just pull the gauge apart and flip both switches down DONT PUT IT BACK TOGETHER YET test it first

Type of Wrenching: Professional, Shadetree, Maintenance (all) How long doing it: 2 shadetree 4 professional Other skills: Anything else you do. U.S. ARMY (reserves now) FULL service all aspect Mechanic at Konic Technology worked for penski reality on a masking crew (wreck and rebuild) use to be a bicycle tech in enumclaw

fixed

it is really hard to win an argument with GD you better have good google skills (im serious you really have to know how to search) ive been on usmb since i was 17 ive changed my name since but my point is: that ive been around for some time. i hate to set him up on a pedestal but he is a subaru encyclopedia. if you think your right and your actually wrong his spidey since will tingle and he will find your post and tell you are "WRONG" followed by the correct answer. youll probably get mad and walk away from the computer (i google his response usually sayin god damnit cause i post novels like this but they are full of facts) i wouldnt call myself a favorite i actually dont think half of these guys even like me hah. i ARGUE alot is why.. and listen to my music LOUD oh and i didnt wheel my wheeler (hah rob loves it) my only real friend "eulogious" backs me up when these guys hit capslock and pound away at the keys ill say a girl on here is rare ive never talked to a girl on usmb in my 5 years of being a member. ill also say you dont sound like you need help you sound equipped, and if you wanted help its going to be through the computer (lazy usmber's) i am a schematic MASTER when it comes to humvees unimogs and tanks but this is the wonderful work of subaru:rolleyes: . i can do just about anything to them but i do turn to this board alot (mainly google) blah blah i know but the real solder/wiring genius is eulogious, if you can fix a old blown amplifier or mod ur tcu.... you just rock. Numbchux is a harness conversion guy also a good source oh and hey welcome to the board

1. To get to the cylinder dip switches you have to remove rear cup by placing the tachometer face down on. A phillips screw retains the cup so remove that screw located on the back. Gently lift the cup off to expose the circuit boards. Careful not to pull on the wires. 2. Locate the dips switches on the circuit board. Move each of the two switches to the proper cylinder selection according to the diagram illustration on the right. 4 Cyl. - Both switches down 6 Cyl. - Switch #1 down. Switch #2 up 8 Cyl.- Both switches up 3. Replace the cup back onto the tach with mounting bracket located at the bottom while making sure the wires are clear of the screw hole, then reinstall the screw. Wiring the Tachometer

what make is the tach?

True bearings.. ive never hears an axel squeal.. onlinecarstereo.com good deals there that my store

i THINK he was talking about the wiring harness and electrical not the integrity of the shared engine. they are okay to me im strictly subaru and chevy

some dont strive for quality. if all you know quick fixes or cheap buys then that "works great" is your settlement. ive never seen a kid that is into cars not be into stereo equipment thats all ive been through some brands i know bang for buck and i know whats quality. one good reason to own a dual stereo is: no one will steal it saves you a window and plastic trim (amateurs fracture the ************ out of the consoles) i wasnt tryin to step on anyone's toes and ive never seen a redneck with a dual deck... its usually the folk that only speak Spanish

Wrong for the camber to be corrected you would need stock specs for: length of a-arm/trailing arm then the lift in inches 1 degree is normal for most cars to gain/lose due to acceleration/deceleration. positive .5 goes to the front and negitive .5 goes to the rear and accel and vise versa... since your going positive.... if you lift your rig 4" at with an a-arm measuring 28.65"long (30") your gain it 2 degrees per inch gain in wheel circumference is gain in camber when the camber degree is + or - .5 degrees or more 28.65" long arm = 2 degree gain/loss this will give you an awesome starting point for figuring out camber. after a certain degree caster comes into play but very slightly. too much camber = change in caster too much of those two = change in toe

if you cant get a stereo shimmed you probably shouldn't be doing any kind of "deck swap". dual is GARBAGE no offense GD you get what you pay for with most things dual is a walmart brand......... their electronics are... i wont buy anything from there ill put it that way keep in mind his age too marine decks are cheap too im about quality for sure i dont know about you 92_rugby_subie ignore me if you dont really care

NO never buy dual thats like buying a mighty max what would seriously match is a marine alpine ipod deck its white also come in off white

ive read in fourns and they use these http://www.ingallseng.com/81260-14mm-fastcam-bolts_pair.html

if you know of me or have seen my rig you know the stock bumpers are coming off

i wasnt specific i like the impreza outback sport

with that said lifting an obs would be (to me) like some other kid lifting an 06 f350 theres no real reason to your not going to use the life to its potential but you want it done... i just want a NICE lifted wagon that can seriously scoot while keeping it all subaru. yanno i love the ea/gl bodys i love em i also like the 96-98 obs so i quess its whatever crosses my path first