True2Blue

its only expensive if you dont know how to shop/look around. and i know its not novice level mechanic work but the build thread is there with a lot more guidance on here. its something ill be doing for sure ill add everything up when it comes down to it.. awesome input though

+1

hey, i found a young 2.2 in shelton at all west coast autowrecking for $400 with ecu and harness so i know they come cheap. there are a select few on here that will mod the harness for you (at a price ive seen $200 on here maybe more maybe less) the ej to ea adapter plate and flywheel is $395 LINK TO KIT theres more youll need... i havent done one but i got everything ready for a swap and did ALOT of reading dont let anyone discourage you from doing the swap if you want it then get it. i dont know if you have a shop or tools or buddies that can do this and i dont know if anyone on here will phyically help you out of "joy" of working on a subaru and teaching a young buck new tricks. my doors are open if you need help GD is a good source for accurate answers to almost any question i too have adequate knowledge and im the type to lend a helping hand as long as it doesnt impact my funds

plastic wrap a cheapo paint gun and a air compressor the rest is common sense

UNDER 2 MINUTES to from this to this. 30 seconds into it and a quick result in under 2 minutes with these tools the rainx kit took waaaay too long and i broke a sweat sanding lol. i left some of the headlight foggy to show how well it cleans and its super fast.. ill make a video with a timer if anyone wants to see note i can make these way better with a little more compound and time but im showing you just how fast and easy this is

i used the rainx kit.. too time consuming.. i do alot of headlights i use a matco cut off tool with a piece of folded microfiber lens cleaning cloth bolted to it and 3M rubbing compound. i only use 2500 grit when its seriously rough i have a 2000 dodge intrepid in the shop that needs headlight restoration so ill do that now to show you how well it works ill even time it

whats your lift range in inches 2 to 8"? and price bracket?

good stuff ive never heard of that one before. but IF he is required to pass emissions wont "plugging" the asv hinder just that, his ability to pass?

4 to 6 inches id love to do the obs but ive never had one thats why im askin. i know id have to split the tranny and swap things up a bit with some light modding...

i had a 79 that i pulled sanded "filled" painted then covered with fabric. it was really nice..

yes on the ASV being a source of backfiring no its not a pressurizer i know this now i was reading bad info. on decel the engine creates alot of vacuum, the asv is hooked up to an intake vacuum line, so on decel the asv is opened allowing atmosphere air to enter the exhaust to counter the radical emission changes usually rich mixtures (lean it out)...

we are already kickin and yes i stayed and rejoined the army so its a win lose lol i can still deploy its w/e as far as a system im going all shallows i want the space IF i do go big ill go orion but its not likely i can get enough umph from comp pioneer shallows

for the equasion to be worked you would need stock specs for: length of trailing arm then the lift in inches if you drop the trailing arms with the strut your okay. 1 degree is normal for most cars to gain/lose due to thrust. positive .5 goes to the front and negitive .5 goes to the rear since your going positive in the rear.... if you lift your rig 4" at with a trailing arm measuring 28.65" (30") your gain it 2 degrees per inch NOW this is directly related to a arm and swing arm equations so having a trailing arm and strut makes things a bit more difficult to equate. you affect your caster more than anything else. if you drop your trailing arms with your strut you are golden if you put on bigger wheels remember you gain for every inch so go off of your stock specs, gain in wheel circumference is gain in camber unless trailing arm is depressed. so not to run in circles... trailing arms mainly affect caster unless they are set at their own positive or negative "camber" degrees. take the basic 28.65"=2 degree gain/loss and cut it in quarters because the trailing arm does not have the camber change of an a arm it has about 1/4.. so a 4" lift with a 30" trailing arm and 27" tires (3" gain from stock tires) 1.75" offset would be a good answer

what seems "better" a lifted gl with a ej22 or a lifted iobs with a d/r... 4-6"

ive done this to every subaru ive owned just cause i like it heres my last NOTE: i later added that keyed switch eliminating my steering coulomb setup the key gave everything power the button was on the starter circuit only the little red switch was for my fanct lights for the switch and tweeters the button and "custom" switch which i dont have pictured but its awesome Before the ignition toggle (had a main power kill (hidden) as well) i was using the key until i did this. after... ignore my stupid commentary please this just has the operation of the switch in it and to make my shift boot look better on my behalf heres the finished product. yes that is coach

i know i clumped them together but i meat the mistu and ram 50. ive ownd both. not too bad.. the 50 got slammed with a 383 & 700r (3500 stall) swap b&m bump shift kit w/reverse lockout air cleaner flew off when i left my left my buddys honda (going 120mph, my speedo wasnt hooked up i wanted to test the.. um.. clear coat integrity) in the dust. sorry GD ill keep on my toes a bit better

Air Suction Valve or anti afterburn system backfires....... GD is good but lets give you more options spark plug gap is incorrect weak valve spring/sticky valve the disty need adjustment or replacement more can be listed when you close the throttle or let off suddenly the engine is running rich at high rpms which causes backfiring because the high flow of air/fuel passes through unburnt to the exhaust and which is soon to be ignited and backfire. fresh air in you exhaust will cause backfiring any leaks as GD said will cause this when you let off the throttle to shift there is negative pressure which sucks fresh air into the exhaust and pop backfires understanding these things or having them explained should really help you pin point and fix it. LOUD or erratic back firing is a timing issue most commonly its worn wires grounded wires or failing coil not firing means lots fuel build up in the exhaust which gives you the loud POP's let me know if you need help - Kody

i like them they arnt too noisy or square feeling on pavement good in the mud and gravel pits too 4" sjr lift trimmed fenders 235/75R15 maxxis big horns

already stated isuzu has the 6 lugs so does Chevy Toyota Dodge ram 50 ran them Mitsubishi ran 6 lugs dodge ram 50s have nice crome "steelies" i had old chevy 5 slot mag alloys on my wagon i tossed the center caps tho. escalade runs 6 lugs (Mitsubishi the mighty max dodge ram 50 and isuzu pup (all the same damn truck) owners that lower their trucks usually bolt up escalade rims oh and yes in 15" they are "car-like" rims hub caps can go on all of them except the escalade rims

you werent kiddin thats how i like to keep my rigs just beautiful most people dont like em unless their lifted, its a subaru thing for sure. i LOVE the 87-92 ea wagons

heres my two cents conventional oil is good its cheap. i like Valvoline as well but its on you to decide. i asked this question years ago on this board and i was told 10w or 15w-40 would be good for worn/ticking engines. i ran it and it was okay. hyperlube works best for ticks btw. ive been wrenching for 6 years now and 4 of them as a "professional" in the army (guard and reserve but title 10 (active) mostly) ive done my homework. i am POL and hazmat certified... im not a engine expert or super tech there are lots of guys on here that are more knowledgeable than myself on engines but im no dummy.. i always help when i can... full synthetic is spendy but best in my opinion because: 1) we wont run out of it (its created in a lab) 2) its thin and thick (comes in all weighs, duh i know) but has awesome viscosity without passage clotting in extreme temps 3)it has a higher boiling point (500 degrees) AND a greater resistance to evaporation ive seen what conventional's do to the internals when they get hot. looks like an oven drip pan, which in time clogs the oil passages and gunks up the the oil pump, eventually killing your engine because good maintenance like chemical flushes won't get all of the cooked oil (gunk) out lets be honest how many guys on here chemically clean their engines?..................................... with all that said my recommendation is (good for turbo engines as well) : 5w40 full synthetic WHY 5w40? quick and simple 5w = the oils viscosity at 32°F 5w is good for cold starting 40 = the oils viscosity at 212°F 40 "w" is thick enough to keep everything thats "old 'n' worn" smooth and operational so if you think about it you have a BIG change in the oils molecular structure that seriously protects your internals at the extremes that you will be putting your vehicle through AND if you advance your timing for that "peppyness" which makes the engine run a bit hotter the oil WONT BURN thats my 2 cents - Kody

it does the job so far. the boss wants to put another one in like this which will be good for exhaust work and everything else or current lift covers up my moms boyfriends shop (where i did all of my work in Shelton) has two of those lifts. after i buy my old subaru back ill put ALOT of my money into tools. the matco guy gives me discounts cause im a veteran. do you have pics of ur ride on here?

damn you know what most of this weekend ill be busy at fort lewis i wont be staying over night tho (i joined the reserves so i have drill but im in processing)

nothing yet probably fixin little things on my wifes car. you can come out our website has or address konictechnology.webs.com im not completely set up yet i hoping to get a matco or craftsman master mechanics set soon we will see if the army will loan me the money few rules: if you pack it in you gotta pack it out "friends" work must be done on my off time so the boss doesn't ask questions (unless your a common face and he doesn't care) no drugs replace what you use (if you use an entire can of carb cleaner kinda thing) thats really it, everything else is common sense and the guys on here well most of the guys on here have that other then that bs its pretty lax around here i plan on gettin lounge material (couch, TV, i already have computers and internet) to make hangin out wrenching and whatnot more comfortable.

laugh now! i don't really drink and when i do its mikes hard lemonade but the fun of making old ru's new and improved serves just as good. it would be nice to have company with the same interests as well. anyways i work from 6:30 "7" to 4 then its my time at the shop sometime the boss man will come over to knock some stuff out with me till 10-11pm ish