True2Blue

Type of Wrenching: Professional, Shadetree, Maintenance (all) How long doing it: 2 shadetree 4 professional Other skills: Anything else you do. U.S. ARMY (reserves now) FULL service all aspect Mechanic at Konic Technology worked for penski reality on a masking crew (wreck and rebuild) use to be a bicycle tech in enumclaw

fixed

it is really hard to win an argument with GD you better have good google skills (im serious you really have to know how to search) ive been on usmb since i was 17 ive changed my name since but my point is: that ive been around for some time. i hate to set him up on a pedestal but he is a subaru encyclopedia. if you think your right and your actually wrong his spidey since will tingle and he will find your post and tell you are "WRONG" followed by the correct answer. youll probably get mad and walk away from the computer (i google his response usually sayin god damnit cause i post novels like this but they are full of facts) i wouldnt call myself a favorite i actually dont think half of these guys even like me hah. i ARGUE alot is why.. and listen to my music LOUD oh and i didnt wheel my wheeler (hah rob loves it) my only real friend "eulogious" backs me up when these guys hit capslock and pound away at the keys ill say a girl on here is rare ive never talked to a girl on usmb in my 5 years of being a member. ill also say you dont sound like you need help you sound equipped, and if you wanted help its going to be through the computer (lazy usmber's) i am a schematic MASTER when it comes to humvees unimogs and tanks but this is the wonderful work of subaru:rolleyes: . i can do just about anything to them but i do turn to this board alot (mainly google) blah blah i know but the real solder/wiring genius is eulogious, if you can fix a old blown amplifier or mod ur tcu.... you just rock. Numbchux is a harness conversion guy also a good source oh and hey welcome to the board

1. To get to the cylinder dip switches you have to remove rear cup by placing the tachometer face down on. A phillips screw retains the cup so remove that screw located on the back. Gently lift the cup off to expose the circuit boards. Careful not to pull on the wires. 2. Locate the dips switches on the circuit board. Move each of the two switches to the proper cylinder selection according to the diagram illustration on the right. 4 Cyl. - Both switches down 6 Cyl. - Switch #1 down. Switch #2 up 8 Cyl.- Both switches up 3. Replace the cup back onto the tach with mounting bracket located at the bottom while making sure the wires are clear of the screw hole, then reinstall the screw. Wiring the Tachometer

what make is the tach?

True bearings.. ive never hears an axel squeal.. onlinecarstereo.com good deals there that my store

i THINK he was talking about the wiring harness and electrical not the integrity of the shared engine. they are okay to me im strictly subaru and chevy

some dont strive for quality. if all you know quick fixes or cheap buys then that "works great" is your settlement. ive never seen a kid that is into cars not be into stereo equipment thats all ive been through some brands i know bang for buck and i know whats quality. one good reason to own a dual stereo is: no one will steal it saves you a window and plastic trim (amateurs fracture the ************ out of the consoles) i wasnt tryin to step on anyone's toes and ive never seen a redneck with a dual deck... its usually the folk that only speak Spanish

Wrong for the camber to be corrected you would need stock specs for: length of a-arm/trailing arm then the lift in inches 1 degree is normal for most cars to gain/lose due to acceleration/deceleration. positive .5 goes to the front and negitive .5 goes to the rear and accel and vise versa... since your going positive.... if you lift your rig 4" at with an a-arm measuring 28.65"long (30") your gain it 2 degrees per inch gain in wheel circumference is gain in camber when the camber degree is + or - .5 degrees or more 28.65" long arm = 2 degree gain/loss this will give you an awesome starting point for figuring out camber. after a certain degree caster comes into play but very slightly. too much camber = change in caster too much of those two = change in toe

if you cant get a stereo shimmed you probably shouldn't be doing any kind of "deck swap". dual is GARBAGE no offense GD you get what you pay for with most things dual is a walmart brand......... their electronics are... i wont buy anything from there ill put it that way keep in mind his age too marine decks are cheap too im about quality for sure i dont know about you 92_rugby_subie ignore me if you dont really care

NO never buy dual thats like buying a mighty max what would seriously match is a marine alpine ipod deck its white also come in off white

ive read in fourns and they use these http://www.ingallseng.com/81260-14mm-fastcam-bolts_pair.html

if you know of me or have seen my rig you know the stock bumpers are coming off

i wasnt specific i like the impreza outback sport

with that said lifting an obs would be (to me) like some other kid lifting an 06 f350 theres no real reason to your not going to use the life to its potential but you want it done... i just want a NICE lifted wagon that can seriously scoot while keeping it all subaru. yanno i love the ea/gl bodys i love em i also like the 96-98 obs so i quess its whatever crosses my path first

its only expensive if you dont know how to shop/look around. and i know its not novice level mechanic work but the build thread is there with a lot more guidance on here. its something ill be doing for sure ill add everything up when it comes down to it.. awesome input though

+1

hey, i found a young 2.2 in shelton at all west coast autowrecking for $400 with ecu and harness so i know they come cheap. there are a select few on here that will mod the harness for you (at a price ive seen $200 on here maybe more maybe less) the ej to ea adapter plate and flywheel is $395 LINK TO KIT theres more youll need... i havent done one but i got everything ready for a swap and did ALOT of reading dont let anyone discourage you from doing the swap if you want it then get it. i dont know if you have a shop or tools or buddies that can do this and i dont know if anyone on here will phyically help you out of "joy" of working on a subaru and teaching a young buck new tricks. my doors are open if you need help GD is a good source for accurate answers to almost any question i too have adequate knowledge and im the type to lend a helping hand as long as it doesnt impact my funds

plastic wrap a cheapo paint gun and a air compressor the rest is common sense

UNDER 2 MINUTES to from this to this. 30 seconds into it and a quick result in under 2 minutes with these tools the rainx kit took waaaay too long and i broke a sweat sanding lol. i left some of the headlight foggy to show how well it cleans and its super fast.. ill make a video with a timer if anyone wants to see note i can make these way better with a little more compound and time but im showing you just how fast and easy this is

i used the rainx kit.. too time consuming.. i do alot of headlights i use a matco cut off tool with a piece of folded microfiber lens cleaning cloth bolted to it and 3M rubbing compound. i only use 2500 grit when its seriously rough i have a 2000 dodge intrepid in the shop that needs headlight restoration so ill do that now to show you how well it works ill even time it

whats your lift range in inches 2 to 8"? and price bracket?

good stuff ive never heard of that one before. but IF he is required to pass emissions wont "plugging" the asv hinder just that, his ability to pass?

4 to 6 inches id love to do the obs but ive never had one thats why im askin. i know id have to split the tranny and swap things up a bit with some light modding...

i had a 79 that i pulled sanded "filled" painted then covered with fabric. it was really nice..