True2Blue

i searched ebay and CL i could not find the SP heads or 2.2 heads for that matter. i found a short block for $1800 (new) in not looking to go to a JY for the major stuff (block and heads) i know ill spend more dipping and rebuilding them than buying them new with a warranty depending on how tonight goes with the boss (im going to suggest we do an hour change) i might be working at the subaru dealership.. my buddy works there so i got a foot in the door. (i know they have all ill need) untill then anyone know where to buy "new" or reman 1.8/2.2 single port heads and phase II 2.5 block?

woot! oh and i paid $715 for four 235/75R15 from les schwab to give ya an idea

im taking advantage of this (my wife is a subaru lover as well) Me playin at the beach In Iraq (im the dude on the right ) The Wife (Sarah) and I at the beach in mason county (she would like to state the wind was blowing her hair is really long not short) My Daughter (Miley Ann Cannaday Me behind 375hp 5 speed w/posse Drove my old wagon to evans creek after drill and played with my Anti-theft (tactical AK47) And a few to make ya laugh (messin around in iraq) sorry for being somewhat off topic

that was easy i hate to bug you so much but how far did you move them over?

mind sharing?

i rest my case

my last name is cannaday (from the kennedy clan "celt")

soon yes

year? model?

thanks i loved that wagon... currently working on gettin it back

Bill get ahold of me. (it wont let me pm you)

Thanks bison for everyone else: 6" lifts for Loyale/EA82/3rd gen L-series are $500 plus shipping, 6" for EA81/Brat/Hatch/2nd gen L-series are $450 plus shipping." that $300 difference leaves enough money to buy a ej to ea adapter plate and flywheel

other then scott? i dont currently have the tools to make one myself or else i would i dont wanna pay $800! for a 6" lift kit on a $250 car and theres this: "steering shaft must be lengthened (not offered by SJR)" im expecting scott to be my only option but this is my attempt to find cheaper kit....

why is that? "custom tune" for a rig that has hard to get to head it seems kinda like an inconvenience

stock internals? 2.5 shorty + 1992-94 legacy 2.2 sp heads + manifold (intake?) + timing belt setup... harness and ecu would be from a 2.5 correct? if so i would love to use a 2.5 dash (to me it would be way easier to 'retrofit' into a 87 wagon then correctly modding the harness)

as long as it doesnt do it when its warm your in the clear for now and i have never in my life heard an axle squeak ive heard bearings do it but by then your pulling over vid on the squeak would be nice

starup issue... you say once you give it gas it dies out? if so could be carb needing cleaned/adjusted or disty adjustment sounds like a carb issue tho.. are you biddies with GD? i think hes the closest to you. or else i say come on over and get it fix up. do you have photo/video skills and tools? (camera with video capability)

ive read the ej22 franken motor stuff, ive also seen the wrx 2.0 swaps now if YOU (the reader) were to swap an EJ engine into your subaru what would it be? if you dont have an opinion then use this: 1987 4" lifted GL wagon you choose engine and transmission what i would like to do to the 1987 lifted gl: obtain "high performance" 2.2 engine a 4.11 modded d/r if you were to piece together your engine what crank, crank bearings, rod bearing, rods, pistons, rings, valves, valve springs, cams, ecu? would you GD what "franken motor" would you build for "fun" (i hate saying motor cause motors are ELECTRIC grandpa use to get on my case about that engine=fuel motor=electricity)

wow is there seriously no one around maple valley auburn enumclaw area? or no one that wants to be friendly

do it yourself (pull it, level out the cracks, "prep" it) then take it to line-x line-x has a huge variety of options flats gloss metallic's all colors grit and smooth finnish

you gotta be ************tin me: i dont get it? i do though, very well. IF they (a -arm and strut, or trailing arm and strut) are spaced the same 4" on strut and 4" on arm (cross member) then there is no change in camber just ride height. overall suspension clearance is gained with bigger wheels . if that were the case (everything was lowered equally) there would be no added positive camber! or post about fixing it......... but there is soooooo heres your solution for finding the angle first is for the non math loving folk... use your front driver side wheel get a true (straight) edge and a protractor Vertically place the straight edge on the wheel (id does not have to be centered just flat against the wheel) Take your protractor and place it flat on the ground with its origin at the bottom of your flat edge. 90 degrees is 0 camber ONLY use 0-90 when figuring. positive camber looks like this \ / negative... / \ in your case its positive... there is an easier way no ruler or protractor just a tape measure and calculator measure from the top 'outside' face of the wheel to the ground. mark it. i use a square looks like a L. then measure horizontally from the bottom outside face of the wheel (where rubber meets the ground) along the ground to the mark you just made now devide the horizontal measurement by the vertical (in degree mode) and what your given is an inverse tangent. your camber angle... can post pics of process if need be. now you know your camber angle in degrees... How the F*** do you fix it right... well if you lengthen your arms youll be zeroing the camber out but important things wont stretch with it. the easiest way i can see this problem being resolved without leveling out your cross member is to re construct your towers (unless your tower spacers are not maxed out yet and you have play). bringing the top of your struts inward. there will be extreme angles on ball joint and axle joints but your tires wont touch clap if you catch air

dude im in washington lol same time.. i have work at 6:30 but im good to go with a full throttle oh and if wont go dont force it.. take pics and upload them.. im subscribed to this thread.. ill be in the shop all day wrenching on a pos honda which means ill be near my computer

i am no expert (yet) the two upper screws come out then its willpull down the bottom of the plastic has little tabs that keep it in place to top will come down then it will pull right out ill do some searching to make sure im correct. you will know if thats not how it goes

dont quote me but i believe there are two phillips screws on the upper inside lip of the cluster housing once youve pulled the plastic then the cluster will be open exposing its mounting points i believe its 4 screws and your golden there may be more i may be wrong but youll know in a few hours for sure.. i took a dash like that apart this year but it was at a JY and i didnt plan on slappin it back together so i didnt bother to remember anything

lol yea just pull the gauge apart and flip both switches down DONT PUT IT BACK TOGETHER YET test it first