Hodaka Rider

Hmmm. Except that's the sensor for the gauge or fan, not the one for the ECU. That's not gonna help you much. The one for the ECU is in the thermostat housing, and has a green connector.

So, hesitation REALLY bites when you've got no low range and you're running 27" Swampers! I found a pretty epic trail while camping, and couldn't get to the top (~6-7 miles) because of the hesitation/bog and the steepness of the trail. Oh well, I'll have to start swaping out parts and throw my D/R into it soon.

Wouldn't that lead to more consistent poor running? I have not driven it yet today, but yesterday it was actually running quite good. EDIT: So, to satisfy curiosities, I checked the t-belt alignment today. It looks just about bang on, maybe slightly off, but not a full tooth (BGD syndrome? -ie: crank pullies reversed?). Anyways, checked oil level and it seems high. I've noticed the same issue with the Forester. Let the oil drain really good, pull filter and let drain some more, replace filter, add 4 litres oil, and the level seems high. Anyone else notice this? (yes, I did crank it a few seconds and then start it and check for leaks) I'll be camping for a week or so, we'll see what turns up.

Clogged cat should cause poor power all over the place - I get good power from 2500 on up. Oddly enough, it is running much better today. Might try a new CTS just for giggles - kinda seems the most likely ATM.

OK, just checked the PCV: lots of vacuum at idle (not warmed up). Is it normal to have constant vacuum? I thought it should pulse, and not go constant until you revved it up more? This is a very strange and perplexing problem. The funny thing is that so many people have this type of problem with the SPFI, and yet so few actually resolve it. Many people have found a number of things that help it, or lessen it, but so few actually completely resolve it.

Yup, cleaned it twice. Once with Seafoam (let it soak in good, then dumped out). Once with brake cleaner.

OK, I know this is ancient history, seeing as you've gone EJ, but did you ever solve this? It's sounding almost exactly like where mine is right now. New plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, etc. Timing set correct. Fuel seems fine - lots of power after the bog (~2000 - 2300 rpm). MAF checks out, TPS OK, CTS OK, etc. I have not checked the PCV yet - might that be an issue? I don't have much oil in the intake.

Wooo-Hooooo!! And in other news, I should FINALLY have my wagon on the road soon!

I did this once in my Fiat 124 Spider. Didn't get very far before I had fairly major smoke coming from under the hood! No damage, just lost a litre or so onto the exhaust manifold.

Yah, I'd do the hysteer, too. It's also a safety issue: if you partially damage it on the trail, and then hit the highway home - could be bad (although, from what I've seen, when they go, they go!). My buddy is doing a frame-off build on his 'runner (not a resto). He's doing the dual cases while it's all apart - gives him lots of room for working!

1) Not sure?? 2) Probably stay stock, if it's still in good shape. 3) Not sure. But I've seen new ones cheap on ebay. 4) Use a WRX unit, and mount an intercooler (maybe air-water from Legacy). Keep boost under 10 and it should be exciting without undue risk to the engine.

"Green Slime" has worked for some. WalMart carries it here, and some bicycle shops have it in smaller containers.

So, I've seen a few of these hacks now. Is there one that will work in an '02 Forester w/6-disc in-dash? This particular one seems to say "no".

You running any fuel additives or octane booster?

Which VW 1.8L? Do you have a link?

On a drive the other day, I looked longingly at several trails. My wife said she'd kill me, 'cause it was date night, and we were on our way to dinner. Hey, a guy can dream!!!

An EA-82 with a cone filter and decent custom exhaust will sound good, too. If all you want is good sound, there you go.

I didn't make it to WCSS, but rguyver had his Brat there! It was the silver one with the WRX drivetrain and STi badges. Hawt.

My idea would put the Justy output into the R-160's, so the reduction would be built in - not really a highway-friendly setup! (low gears all the way through, locked center). It's been done with a Saturn engine/tranny, among others.

Hmmm.. . . wouldn't you have to reverse the engine rotation somehow to do that? Also sounds like it would leave a pretty short front driveshaft. Here's a fun idea: how about a Justy? Lift it a bit, put the engine/transaxle mid-mount (inline, instead of transverse) with a welded diff, going to R-160's front and rear? I know, not what you're looking for, but fun idea, right?

Funny, I asked him again and he said it was dual port?

Well, apparently the OBD-II is not a huge issue if you have the whole donor car - maybe a little more wiring. My main question is if this is still a non-interference, highly reliable Ej-22.

So, this lady and her husband came to look at a car I have for sale. He seemed interested in my Loyale, so we talked for a bit. Turns out he's a rally guy (used to be with Patrick Richard/Rocket racing), and he's building an Impreza with a Legacy 2.2 turbo engine right now. Anyways, he has a full '97 Imp parts car and said I'm welcome to the engine/wiring/ECU if I'm interested. Is this still a Gen 1 EJ-22? Is it still a pretty straight forward swap?

Holy cows! I though you were dead! I almost looked you up a week or two ago on my way to Spokane. How about another hatch? Maybe an Impreza or Legacy with a t-case? Or a tube frame rig? Loyales are cheap, light, and roomy - drop in an EJ and a t-case. Move the front end forward a bit, and the rear back 6 inches or so (SAS like Scott's?).

Good on ya! I was wondering if that's what the trip was all about. BTW, get the package from Andy?