Hodaka Rider

Also false. Read some of the stuff in the links I posted, as well as some more research. "the reason that exhaust valves burn is because the engine is burning lean. Normal engines will tolerate lean burning for a little bit, but not for sustained periods of time. The reason why the engine is burning lean to begin with is that the reduction in backpressure is causing more air to be drawn into the combustion chamber than before." The "burnt valve" thing may have applied to some non-fuel injected engines, as well as FI engines, where proper tuning did not follow the free flowing, low backpressure exhaust. Note the "causing more air to be drawn in" part? More airflow needs more fuel. More air + more fuel = more power. Basically, though, your engine will only perform well with exhaust diameter up to a certain size. Above that size, power levels taper off, and you lose low end. Proper extraction can only occur when the pipe is sized right for the engine, with low restriction (restriction=backpressure). If you have a low-backpressure exhaust say, 2.25" diameter with a good muffler, and compare it to a 2.25" diameter exhaust with nasty pinch-bends and a poor muffler design (thereby giving the engine the backpressure you say it "needs"), the low-backpressure exhaust will give you better performance, and you will NOT burn valves as long as you: a) make sure your carb is still jetted OK for the flow or: have a modern fuel-injected engine that can compensate for better flow.

Well, maybe. You might want to drop the rear 'mustache bar' another inch. Here's another way to do it: http://www.eagleperformance.com/RearTrailingArms.html Of course, these are made for VW-based sand rails!

Drop the rear suspension crossmember like other lifts do. I looked into this, and Scott said he'd be willing to tool up for blocks if enough people want them. I was thinking maybe 2", so as to avoid dropping them so far that they might be able to catch on things easier (like some have experienced on the Ozified/BYB setup). If you look at a stock EA-82 wagon, you'll notice the rear wheels are toward the front of the wheel well by an inch or so. The AA lift just exagerates it more.

If you disconnect the lines to the condenser, you're in trouble. If you can move it out of the way without unhooking, you're OK.

Been wondering: where in BC are you?

Check first. If I recall correctly, even my '83 wagon had the points.

A better flowing exhaust will usually give you better mileage - assuming you don't use the extra power that comes with better flow. Don't even start with that. Backpressure=bad. Start reading here: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question172.htm more info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exhaust_pipe yet more: http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Miscellaneous/exhausttheory.htm It also does not matter what size the outlet is on the muffler, and even if the inlet was 3", it would have been sleeved down to match the rest of the piping.

If the anti-rattle clips in the calipers are not all there, or are bent out of shape, you can get strange tapping noises from the pads. Swapping the rotors around could cause the pads to drag on ridges on the rotors slightly, reducing the noise. (I've had this happen before)

Wow, there's a blast from the past!! If I had a nickel for every time that car has showed up here, I'd probably have $0.25! OK, that wasn't very funny. I was just thinking of that car the other day, though. I think before the Ebay sale, it was on the board for some other reason.

General rule (in my experience): when one hose pops, do 'em all!!

*this space reserved* (still can't upload pics)

;)

There's also a company called "Audi" that made some very competitive rally cars. Come to think of it, you can get one pretty cheap with AWD and locking center and rear diffs. Might be worth thinking about. (try to find one with as little electrical options as possible. All the motors and wiring for the fancy electric seats, windows, sunroofs, etc will SLOW YOU DOWN!)

Very tempting, but I already have one engine here that I'm not putting back together in a timely fasion.

I am one of the very few that this has NOT happened to.

That's umm . . . subtle.

What did the last ones cost?

Answer: none of the above. Bring the Mog!

Hmmm, OK. I guess I'll see what the guy wants for it - unless you've found me one?

I still need a skid plate, but I'm not wanting to take a chance on getting it shipped. Besides, you guys announced last year that you were getting out of the Subaru parts business. Not so confidence - inspiring.

I've been wanting to try this mod for awhile, but have yet to find a good D/R at a reasonable price. (like, less than $200 at my door)

Cheap and cheesy: 86-89 Honda Accord front springs. Your rear end will go up an inch or two unloaded, plus they are stiffer. I suppose you could cut a coil off to bring it back down in height (still keeping the better load capacity).

Hee-hee

Hey Zefy, what's Subaru Jim up to these days? (I'm hi-jacking my own thread!)

Email him. He'll get back to you within a day, almost guaranteed.