Caboobaroo

EJ22t block, Wiseco pistons, EJ257 crank and rods, ACL bearings with dual thrust bearings (22t has a #3 thrust and 257 crank has a #5 thrust) and combine it with some EJ205 heads. Depending on the bore you go with, you can achieve a 2.4l stroker. Nope, haven't thought about building an EJ22t

Well poop. Looks like Webshots went down and I lost all of my older pictures:mad: Guess I will need to get more but here is one to keep you entertained:clap: More mods are to come, including a fully rebuilt ER27, MegaSquirt 2, ISC coil overs and more. suspension will probably go through round two before the MS2 goes in. Once the MS2 is running good, then I will build the extra engine I have.

I voted for you:popcorn:

You can replace the main bearings with oversized bearings. Shaving the block down can cause bigger headaches. Damn, GD beat me to it... Heh

In 2004 there was a design change with the valve body and Duty C. Depending on the year the transmission was built (my '04 has a transmission that was originally assembled in '03) the Duty C solenoid went from being serviceable like they all have, to integrated into the valve body. If its the newer style, then the only way to fix it is replace the valve body. I know there was a TSB on this and the sticker on the bellhousing right above the starter will give you the code to determine when it was assembled.

Congrats Qman!

Do I get to go for a free drive?:-p I will let you ride along:grin:

What does this newbie know? :-p

But they won't bolt in. 2005 was a major design change in the way they mount to the engine crossmember. 2004 STi will be the closest thing to a bolt in without buying a Q-Rack.

They were right, it is a major pain in the butt to adjust the back end. Most shops won't to be totally honest and most mechanics don't even know how to adjust the back. I don't align very many EAs but I have also been able to align the back end successfully. Camber sounds normal but it does have a bit of a toe in issue, especially since the front is toe out some. Unless it is a huge difference in ride height, the shocks in the rear aren't going to really effect the alignment.

I will see if I get time to get you a quote.

2012 have a different size drain plug. Needs to be replaced every oil change. I think the dealer is the only way to get the correct one in that size.

Bump!

I used to have it on my webshots account but somehow it's gone? I have a FSM you could borrow

Well the engine swap will happen but this will probably be a few years from now (moving this summer, getting married, other projects) and I just went through the engine in it currently. Only complaint is the amount of power but it's currently fairly reliable and I have a spare ER27 in the garage. My other option is to build a beefy NA ER27:clap:

Glad to hear you made it out this way! I have some EA82 power steering parts that will probably make their way into the trash but I have a good pump and possibly some lines and maybe even a rack:headbang:

Nw ant to do it the easy way? I believe the 6 pin connector that plugged into the original automatic shifter needs to have a jumper wire installed. Out of the 6 wires, find the two largest and put a wire to connect them. I then wrapped the jumper wire and the connector with electrical tape to keep the jumper secured. This was on my '87 but I don't see it being that much different. Wires should be Black/Yellow stripe and Black/Red stripe.

Well from what I've read, putting any other final drive behind a EZ30 besides a 3.70 will make it scream on the freeway. I miss having the RX dual range box in my coupe as it was great behind the EA82 SPFI engine that was in it. I'm also curious as to different gear sets from EJ transmissions and how they bolt into the XT6 case. Also, I'm curious about swapping 5th gear with something a bit taller, again to help with freeway rpms. Oh and I forgot you had that adapter plate:headbang:

Long story short, my '89 XT6 is starting to whine at high speed once the fluid is warm so it will eventually need a rebuild. It is possible this transmission could stay with either an EG or EZ swap and I'm trying to figure out what would be reasonable. I have a few newer generation Outback, Legacy and Impreza transmissions but only one XT6 box. So, opinions matter, what would you do if you were in my situation and faced with these decisions? One of my biggest peeves is the highway engine rpm as its too high for a 6 cylinder at cruise:dead: it can kill gas mileage...

Most shops will probably recommend a new transmission to fix the issue but it's not too hard to tear it apart and o it yourself. Done a few of them myself and major tools needed would be a 1/2"drive impact gun, a 35mm socket, a press and some bearing clamshells.

From a couple weeks ago.

Wish I could make it to this as well...

I might have a phase 2 box from a '99 Outback open and partially apart at work. Not a fozzy gear set but would be a phase 2 box nonetheless...

The P0440 is an evap code and usually it leads to a rusted through fuel filler neck. Is fairly easy to check, just need to remove the right rear wheel and there is an access panel behind the wheel.

When the alternator goes bad it will start and run until the bowl in the carb goes empty. While cranking, the fuel pump is run directly and fills the bowl but once running, it gets power from the alternator.