Zefy

the light they produce is not super bright but it is enough to read a map or something. the stock unit has one plastic bolt that threads into the roof however this one has a bunch of little holes on a removable bracket. i welded this removable bracket to a piece of flat bar then connected the light as normal. it shines in the middle on the center of the dash however the mirror can be rotated so you can point it from the driverside to the passenger side. worked really well in the brat. i would show a demo pic of the light produced but i don't have it wired up (or the car for that matter). you can see the plate i made in the first pic. not sure how this would work on an ea81 car.

wow i thought this would draw some interest... i thought it was super sweet to have a light on the rear view.

are you talking about just going with a 5sp FWD trans? it should be a direct swap BUT it has to be from a gen1 with the TOP mount starter like yours is (should be..?)... if you're talking about 5 speed dual range 4wd or something, that's a whole different ball game... it can be done, but it's REALLY hard to do without swapping the engine. getting the engine tuned up REALLY nicely will do more for cruising MPG than adding a 5th gear will... i've seen 40+mpg from my brat when i wasn't romping on it and also keeping it rather slow.

a while ago i upgraded the rear view mirror in the brat to a unit out of a fiat x1/9. this is a pretty cool little mirror as it is smaller (i always found the stocker to be to big), looks cooler, and it has a nifty little map light on the bottom. i recently found some more NOS fiat mirrors and i'm wondering if anybody here would be interested in one? for the life of me i can't find a fiat club that is on this side of the pond so i'm offering them to suby folk! haven't decided on any pricing, just want to see if anybody is actually interested first. i also have a bunch more fiat parts so if anybody knows an enthusiast i would like to chat with them to see if they need anything. (don't as why i got a bunch of fiat parts...)

depends on your meaning of 'better'... yes i think they flow more fuel but the engine doesn't flow enough air to make it worth it (or make it faster). and unless you run some sort of EM there would be no way to control the extra flow from the injectors.

get this... http://www.edesignaudio.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=e+dead competition quality stuff at a good price...

save yourself the hassle of messing around with trying to do it with the engine in the car... its SO easy to take this engine out. i've done it by my self without a hoist in under 1.5 hours. then you can actually get in there and have a look.

i see TINY roots type superchargers on ebay selling all the time... might be fun.

that looks like laser cut CNC to me. nice project!

^^ the car has to be over 2300lbs... an impreza can easily be made to that in FWD and you get more suspension options. the DOHC 2.5l you got isn't as good a block as the SOHC. (3 main vs. 5 main) use older legacy 2.2 liter heads as they are dual port exhaust. if you want to spend the money, then get them pnp'd with the manifold. there is a dealer on http://bbs.legacycentral.org/ for this work. get a cam grind from delta camshafts. a 2.25" exhaust seems to be the most effective size. use the legacy FWD trans if you want to stick with a stock unit. bigger axles and clutch. there are TONS of suspension options for these cars. for the brakes if it has to 'appear' stock, get subaru 4 piston fronts with 2 piston rear... they are red, and say subaru on them...

that is from the turbo back... or is there a header/uppipe in there as well? it doesn't really matter. those parts she has on her car work well with each other and most likely the AP is loaded with the correct map for the mods done to the car. i would recommend she (or you) learn how to use the AP if you have to take the car in for emissions or something. it also has some neat features on it. the unit can display vital engine info and also pull codes if the CEL ever comes on. You can also plug it into a computer to upload/download different engine maps. there is also a cool valet mode which won't let the car go over 3k RPM for those sketchy carwashes or something. also probably a good call to have a look at the rest of the car and see if anything else is aftermarket.

the exhaust is nothing to worry about. it sounds like it's just an axleback (muffler section) exhaust. very common thing to do. just lets the rumble out. the ecu thing though... what exactly is it? some are bad, some are not. if the original owner bought cobb exhaust in the first place i'm going to guess it's the access port two (AP2)... it should say on it. this, if loaded with the correct maps for the engine, can do wonders and still maintain warranty as you can just load the stock map for the engine and unplug it. nobody would know the difference (including a dealership)... post up a pic or what it is called to confirm this.

i see quite a few delicas around. Probably 3+ every day... all of those vehicles except some of the odd micro K cars i see on a regular basis. i'm saving up for a 93 JDM sti.

canada has lots... come and get one. here is a company that specializes in them. http://www.japanoid.com/ they charge a fair amount however they do all the legwork for importing them. read the FAQ for importing the the states from canada. also there are a bunch on craigslist. I would also look at some of the non-subaru ones. they're pretty much all the same. we had a sambar at the vancouver auto show displaying some of the roof racks we sell... it was pretty sweet, 4wd 660cc supercharged ecvt. it also had a full VW van body kit on it so everybody was really confused as to what it was.

sweet tires! are you worried about being overweight for these tires? or are they crazy super heavy duty atv tires?

erm, running stock drivetrain? how did you get past the rear suspension issues and running oversized tires? crazy offset wheels? good work!

that still sounds like a fuel problem. if the float fills up then you drive it and the float will empty without having proper pressure to fill it back up. I would recommend a full carb rebuild as it is probably clogged with old gas and a rotten float. if you're really worried about this siezing problem then perhaps try turning it over by hand right after it shuts off...

i am having the same issue with mine however i opted to modify the steering rather than the bellhousing. if you remove the rag joint entirely and weld a rod in place then cut off the 'ears' with the studs on the steering than you're in the clear.

^^ well put... that's my main issue with this. making the HHO IN the car WITH the engine. i would even take this one step further from what GD had pointed out that you could run a battery to power the HHO electrolizer. why not just make the stuff AT HOME? then have a nice hefty tank in the back for storing your hydrogen and there you go. you make it using 120V power at a fraction of the cost of running a gasoline genset such as an alternator. another thing about having an electrolizer is it doesn't produce HHO at a fast rate. I don't know if any of you have ever used one but even a large one doesn't produce the stuff at any speedy rate.

the issue with having a short test period is little variables like sitting at extra traffic lights, or playing with the gas pedal can totally scew the results. if you do the testing over a year for instance it's assumed that having low tire pressure for a week will be weeded out by more consistant results. over one year would take account for crappy winter gas and all the other tiny variables. this is exactly the same reason why your results were so odd when you did your testing with mileage. a .1 gallon difference would yeild much greater mileage. Your source of error is obviously, the gas station not filling to the same level. Lets say that source of error is .2gallons. Over 2 gallons that's a pretty big margin however if you waited till the whole tank was empty than 14 gallons (or whatever it is) would still have that +- 0.2 gallon uncertainty from the station. Then your overall error is minimalized. This is why scientists actually doing this sort of work opts for long periods with lots of data points. you can never have to much data!!!

yes the front and back straps should be with side to side ones as well... for something like a kayak it really doesn't matter how you distribute the weight as they are so light anyways. it is more of a matter of the thing flying away or sliding out from the straps. this goes for anything sticking out over the windshield. weight distribution is more important with heavy things like lumber or a cargo box but you don't need to go crazy with it. when they say 'evenly distributed' they mean don't have a cargo box with bricks in the back and feathers in the front. now you can run into weight problems with a kayak if you fill the thing up with bags.

what i would like to see is this test vehicle of yours to to run stock for at least 1 month recording fuel consumption and mileage in a daily driving pattern (to and from work with nothing else) then for the same test period recording the mileage/fuel with the electrolizer on but not being used then one more with the electrolizer on and hooked up. this would almost be ok as test data. still to many variables for me but people making these things aren't going to be the people with labs and proper testing equipment. (sorry...)

The reason they have specific measurements is for safety. They have been tested and approved to be placed on that specific part of the roof. you may not have any problems moving them but it's when you crash and your kayak becomes a projectile you might run into problems. typically it doesn't matter if your bar spread is 24" or 60" when carrying a kayak AS LONG AS you tie it down front and back. If you get into a crash and your roofrack fails due to improper installation than you can be held liable for it. If you really want to maximize your barspread to make it ideal for the kayak i would recommend thule tracker II with TK14's or a track with TK1's. i am a thule and yakima dealer from rackattack. sorry for my rant, i see this WAY to often then have people come in with damaged cars or sob stories about how their stuff is wrecked all because they installed it their own way. There is a reason the instructions are so specific!

you don't seem to get it... making the HHO takes more energy than you will get with your more 'complete burn'... how is it coming along anyways? how much HHO does it take to improve your combustion? if you made the HHO somewhere else (not in the car) and stored it in some sort of tank perhaps you might see the gains you're hoping for...?

anther hole in your theory... if you have it after the turbo then the pressure from the intake will not 'draw' in HHO... it will force it out... IT'S PRESSURIZED!!! That's like saying you're going to fill up a balloon with air and somehow by just having water near it the balloon will fill up with water... in a pressure system such as a turbo car you would need to FORCE in the HHO... on an N/a car with vacuum you could get away with this, but a turbo car? NO!