Numbchux

I think machining splines would probably be more expensive than a quality weld....

and what "new rims" do you plan to put on there? only things that will fit are '80s peugeot wheels, or modified 6-lug truck stuff. both of which have plenty of clearance for the hub.

I would assume the pinion would work with the RX driven shaft. BUT, I know the newer cars used a different center diff (and possibly housing). so you'd need to get your hand on one of those. IIRC anything 2002 and newer would work there, so that'd be a bit easier than the R&P. keep your eyes open on nasioc and the like. might be able to find a trans with a blown 2nd gear for fairly cheap. also, baja turbos and outback XTs had them.

seriously. I will not spoon-feed you any more than that.

I think he's referring to searching with your eyes. right now, the 8th thread in this section answers most of your question already: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=106175 all subaru rear ends are r160s (except the new STis which use an r180). so they're interchangeable. GD mentioned recently that the rear hanger studs are slightly different, so you might want to use the EA82 rear cover. as for what gear ratios came in what: http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/trannychart/trannychart.html

bumping up this old thread. sorry Can you confirm this? I'm putting an EJ center diff in my XT6 this week. need to have the driveshaft modified. you say 1 7/8" suberdave says 55mm (which is about 2 3/16") and my measurements (which I don't trust entirely, as they're being done out of the car) are pointing towards about 2.5". I want a quick turnaround, so I want to have a spare driveshaft modified before I take the car apart. For future reference, for use with an EJ 5MT in an EA82 car. EJ rear half is too long. EJ 5MT front half is too long (about the same as an EA82 5MT front half). EJ 4EAT front half is too short.

yea, only a few of the highest-performance jdm 5-speeds had a front LSD. so getting a used factory one would not be easy. All subaru 5-speed front diffs are interchangeable though. And there are many aftermarket front diff options. Ranging from the cheap (in every way. I have seen tell of them fail, with reasonable power/usage) OBX, all the way to Quaife helical ones (couple grand!). if my next subaru-powered project ever gets going, it will be using a FWD 5-speed. and I plan to run this STi front diff: http://japanparts.com/db/parts_detail.php?submit.x=41&submit.y=10&NUMBER=00002191&VOLUME=1005G-019-083&DEALER=1&CAR=&MIDDLE=1&SMALL=19&MAKER=4&VOLKEY=&SEARCH_DEALER=1&SEARCH_CAR=&SEARCH_MIDDLE=1&SEARCH_SMALL=19&SEARCH_MAKER=&SEARCH_VOLKEY=&SEARCH_page=

yep, any standard EA82 (be it 4-cyl XT or wagon/sedan/coupe) rear shock/spring assembly will work. keep in mind, the wagon will be a much stiffer rear spring than the XT. I like upping the rear spring rates more than the front, so it's not necessarily a bad thing, but be aware, it will change the way the car handles. EJ struts aren't too hard to adapt. but you'll want some sort of hydraulic tool to spread the flange. I used a hydraulic press and an impact socket that was about 2 mm wider than the XT6 knuckle. worked perfectly. then a few minutes with a dremel to modify the holes in the strut tower for the EJ strut tops (or, swap the '6 tops onto the EJ struts. they'll interchange. but if you've got a dremel, it'll be faster to modify the body). what gary meant is that it doesn't use a cable shift. it's external linkage. but yea, there are a few sets of bushings. I started looking to see if some EJ-style ones would work (so that some stiffer ones could be used), they look similar, but I never confirmed anything.

You do have to use some brain matter while operating them. yea, if you're not hanging onto them, they'll go pretty crazy. but I would not, for a second, call it any less safe than a floor/bottle jack on enough lumber to get a lifted subaru off the ground. ESPECIALLY offroad, where you don't have a stable place to put a jack.

nope, "wider" being front-to-back. so the sway bar is an inch or so further away from the control arms. I would assume, since leading rods are interchangeable between '6s and EA82s, and ditto with driveshafts. that the control arms are in the same place relative the rest of the car. but the sway bar is just a bit further forward. so when you put a '6 sway bar on an EA82, the sway bar link ends up angled back a bit, and then the bend in the bar touches the control arm. the setup on my wagon rubbed there, actually rubbing a noticeable notch in both control arm and sway bar.

check out Jibs's brat. Those look like stock EJ 14s. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=104738 I ran some 17x8 +48s on my EA82 without any major clearance issues (front tires would rub the frame rail at full lock....but only just).

really pretty self-explanatory. my old '85 wagon. torn outer CV boot. joint had been binding a bit for awhile. Went mudding in it one day, lots of nasty, swampy, dirty water splashing up the windshield. next day, I drove into town to the MNSubaru meet, and as I was leaving, the joint snapped. I dropped it in 4WD and continued on. That night I did a brake stand in front of a buddies house, and then we went off to do some donuts. steering wheel full-lock, floored it, horrible sounds and the ebrake on that corner locked up. got out the flashlight, and yea, the axle shaft had caught the cable. pulled the axle out, drove on for about 5k miles after that before I parted out the car.

me too. just taking up space.

they will go soooooooo long at stock height. they will dry out, click, bind, pull, make noise, and not break for thousands of miles. the outer joints have a bit more strain on them than the inners (and will hold less grease in them without the boot), so they will fail a bit quicker. but you've still got a long way to go. if you go through a swamp today, though. they'll probably break tomorrow (go ahead.....ask me how I know ). worst case scenario? it breaks. coast to a stop, pop it in 4WD, drive on in RWD. yawn. just know that if it's an outer joint, at full lock the shaft can pop out of the joint and get caught up in your brake lines and such (so....don't try to whip donuts in you're newly RWD wagon until you get the broken half out of there.......again, ask me how I know ). carry a punch and hammer. if it breaks, jack up the car, pop out the spring pin, pull out the shaft/inner joint (you'll have to turn the wheel to full lock to get it loose without disassembling the suspension), drive on. BUT! a new CV boot kit is about $10. 2 of them per axle. You're axle is still well worth saving (assuming it's still a subaru one). spend the $20 now to return your axle to new. or spend $50+ later to have a crappy remanufactured axle that will just fail again in 6 months (lifetime warranty = it will fail often until you get fed up and spend the money on a decent one).

yep. for a side-of-the-road repair, I carried a small floor jack and a bunch of junks of wood. usually a couple chunks of 4x4 of decent size to put under the jack. and then a number of pieces of 2x4 to put between the jack and the car. for offroad. hi-lift. (see the period? ), I have a Northern Tool knockoff of the hi-lift design. I love it. used it on the subarus, and the 4runner. just have to have a place to jack from (stock bumpers aren't great, but will work. preferably some nice steel bumpers).

First off....the FrankenWagon was swapped back to stockish (still EJ22, and still 5MT and 4WD swapped. but 4-lug, drum brakes in the back, etc.) in the last month or so. and last monday, went to it's new home. so a little photo tribute to it: Goodbye old friend :cool: about a month ago, an '88 XT6 popped up on CL in Crystal. Thanks to the Crew Chief for our Rally Team for sending me the link shortly after that. I told the guy I was making arrangements to come get it the following sunday (3 weeks ago, or so). I had my dad call on Thursday to try to go look at it in person.....only to find out the guy had just sold it. He told me he'd give my phone number to the kid who bought it for the $800 being asked. original ad listed it as having a clunk in the transmission, and needed a fuel pump. kid bought it, replaced fuel pump and a number of rusted out fuel lines, drained/refilled gas tank, and new battery. went for a test drive, and a brake line burst....and the transmission was worse than he thought. so last sunday he called me. so, last Friday we drove out to his place near Menomonie, WI, poked around, and bought it for $740. That night, I pulled some brake lines of similar lengths, and identical fittings from my parts wagon, and replaced the bad section. Saturday I got plates/tabs, washed it at work, and took a picture: It has most of a rare Kaminari body kit on it. looks like at some point, it hit a snowbank or something relatively soft. as the fog light on one side is missing, the headlight cover on that same side is black, and the fiberglass kaminari front lip is missing. But no signs of structural damage. For those that don't know, here's what a fully-kitted car looks like: 2nd gear synchro's are pretty much shot. but it doesn't make any noises in other gears. So I'm going to pull this trans and drop some impreza internals into it (including the VLSD center diff!)

I guarantee that it says EJ22 on the tag on the strut tower. which almost certainly means it still has the 2.2 ECU and wiring in it. so regardless of what shortblock someone threw in there at one point, still think of it as a 2.2 from the wiring standpoint. since you're doing wiring anyway. do it right, and use a standalone. you can get a used Link LEM for $500 or less if you look around. And there are other companies that make simple ECU systems that will allow you to get the most out of your motor without sacrificing reliability. The stock ECUs are pretty good at adjusting the fuel trims to compensate for extra air, right up until the injectors are maxed out. But you won't have any timing control. and that's what will make or break your reliability.

found some measurements in the FSMs. looks like all 5MT front driveshafts (EA and EJ) are about 25", +/- ~1/2". measured from the center of the u-joints. So even if I could put the EA82 bracket on an EJ shaft, it probably wouldn't solve the problem. some other numbers. from tip of the slip yoke to the flange, an EA82 PT4WD 5MT driveshaft is 28.5". the AWD tailhousing, from where the center case meets the tranny case to the end of the output is 14.25". the RX FT4WD housing is 11.5". so I need to add about 2.75" to my driveshaft to make this work......awesome.

just compared, and the EJ VLSD tailhousing is definitely longer than the EA locker housing. so in order to run the VLSD, I'll have to use a shorter driveshaft....I'd rather not have mine modified....but before I drop some cash on a junkyard driveshaft, I'd like to have an idea of whether it would work. so....EJ, 5MT driveshaft. I need the length of just the front section, from the end of the slip yoke, to the flange behind the carrier bearing. also, a measurement from somewhere on the bearing/bracket to one end would be great.

a throttle body spacer increases the volume of air between the butterfly valve in the throttle body and the combustion chamber. I honestly don't understand the physics behind it beyond that. peak hp gain is minimal (2-4hp). But it yields a noticeable shift in the power band to lower rpms. I did also notice a slight increase in highway mileage (1-2mpg) pretty consistently after installing it. http://groupa-performance.com/PR_throttle_body_spacer.html http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f66/throttle-body-spacer-installed-16369/ FYI, the group A one pictured is the same one I have. it is not a perfect fit for early 2.2s. the center hole and mounting holes are perfect, but the 2.2 TB has a small chamber coming off of it that extends beyond the side of the spacer and will leak. I bought an extra gasket, and cut a piece of sheet aluminum to the shape of the TB, and sandwiched it between 2 gaskets on the TB side of the spacer, and it hasn't leaked a bit since. knock it all you like. I have one. I noticed gains. Mine is not for sale.

if you're going into water. you need to be able to disable your fan. so no, offroaders don't prefer mechanical fans. the extra resistance from the water will bend the plastic fan blades.....right into your radiator. a fan also throws water/mud around the engine bay.

just thought I'd bump this up. was changing the fluids in the new '6 today. and had a standard EA82 jacking plate on the ground nearby. held it up, and sure enough. the XT6 crossmember is probably about an inch wider than the EA82 one. So the sway bar is definitely further forward compared to the control arms.

I helped a buddy make one for an EJ. it's not difficult. get a chunk of steel or aluminum the thickness you want. grab a drill and a dremel, and go to town. then grab some longer bolts and you're set. yea, the one I have is pre-made...but they're not a complicated piece.

^we're not talking about EJs. as they're commonly available for EJs, and dyno graphs to prove the difference are just as easy to come by. I had one on the 2.2 in my wagon. I intend to run it AND phenolic spacers on my supercharged motor. a spacer's effect definitely does differ from one engine to the other. some engine love having really short intake runners (ITBs), EJ subies seem to be among those that benefit (well...for those of us that like some down-low grunt) from some extra volume between the TB valve and combustion chamber. I have not heard of it done on an EA82. but it's a fairly simple thing. and it can't hurt. I say do it!

welcome. you have a lot of research to do. all the information you seek is abundantly covered here. write-up and others here: http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/downloads.htm only thing I will comment on now, is that a body lift is definitely not necessary for an engine swap.