Numbchux

They redesigned the heads for the 2011/2012 Leg/OBK to "fix" the issue. They rarely leak externally like most EJ251/253s, but they blow internally just as often. A smell pretty much just means you have something leaking. Could be almost anything. The common failure mode of those head gaskets is to overheat.

No "reprogram" But a few minutes with the FSM wiring diagrams you can modify it. There are 2 outputs from the keyless entry unit or body integrated unit (My 2000 Outback has a keyless entry module, where my 2004s have a BIU, I'm guessing the 2000 Forester is the former). One goes to the driver's door, and the other to all the other doors. Cut both wires, splice both of the body-side wires together to the output on the module that used to go just to the driver's door. And poof, they all open on the first click.

Based on the information given, I can confidently say, "maybe".

Extremely tall ask, especially for someone asking such basic questions. I'll slide my bet onto "this project never happens". You have a big list of things there, it's not going to happen quickly. I'd guess multiple hundreds of hours of labor to complete that list. Maybe with hundreds of hours of research/parts gathering, you could have the car out of commission for one hundred hours of work time. However you slice it, that's an enormous amount of labor to bring it up to 30 year old technology. The early EJ22s are reliable and fairly simple, but not fast. If your target is a long travel thing like the Subaru version of Caswell's Baja Pig. You'll be looking at turbo platforms, or H6s, or both. You'll need a better transmission and rear diff. And custom suspension and axles. All of which means any work you do with the Legacy parts will get you no closer, and have to be completely un-/re-done. Sure, swap the engine/transmission. Keep the suspension stock and serviceable. And it'll be a fun, reliable little street car. If you want to offroad it, get a D/R 5MT to go behind the EJ22, redrill the hubs to 6-lug and a 4" lift. And you'll have a fun, reliable little wheeler. If you want any more than that, you're starting with a rough platform, and definitely have the wrong donor to get there. Really think what your budget (money AND time) is, and what your goals are.

The dealership where I worked stocked many of those hoses, we saw them leak all the time. Doesn't surprise me at all. Grab those 2 hoses from your local dealership (you can shop around if you like, but I'd bet any discount you'd see through an online retailer will quickly disappear in shipping cost), and swap them out. Very little volume is in those lines, so the system doesn't need to be drained to do it. There are 2 more sections of hose at the bottom of the radiator (steel line in between that runs next to the engine/under the battery), have a look at those, too.

Those are the transmission cooler hoses.

On an EJ, with it just before or just after TDC, you can pound the wrist pin out from the far side with a long punch or round steel. And yea, you won't find a "kit", just individual part numbers directly from Subaru. No need to replace them, though.

It's only ~1/2" thick. The threads in the block are much deeper than that. Maybe Aluminum would work, but I feel better with it being steel.

Yea, steel is a must, I think.

Agreed, it would not have come from the factory with it. Some dealerships might install them (if you buy a machine from the equipment dealer where I now work, we put a block heater in it, even if you didn't ask for it) by default, so it's possible you have one.

Yea, when I worked at the dealership, I know they extended the warranty on the '10-'14 low beams. I don't really understand, that. Had low beams burn out in all of our '00-'04s. I only replace with LEDs, though. Never again.

I've seen that done, but every plate I've used had holes tapped into it and bolts threaded into the plate. You drill out the threads in the engine, and then bolt the plate on. I just looked at the ADF page, it says right there it's 3/8-16. Just a matter of measuring the thicknesses and adding it up. https://awdadventure.com/collections/ea82/products/ea-ej-adapter-plate Edit: based on the picture, it looks like the SJR one comes with smaller diameter studs, so you don't have to drill out the threads in the block. https://www.sjrlift.com/collections/engine-swap/products/ej-to-ea-engine-adapter-engine-swap-sjr-ej22-into-ea82

That is the advantage to those awful 6054 sealed beams (My XT6, Celica, 4Runner, and Econoline all use the same ones), they almost never burn out.

Bulbs are a wear item. And the bulb is just about the only common denominator between the headlight switch and DRL module. If it's not a bulb, you have a wiring gremlin.

Ah, that's a bit different. Your profile says Durham, NC. Where in AK? I've been up there a few times (got married in Girdwood). Those are both Phase 1, different head design and much less likely to fail. Those are for a 2.5. There's no factory MLS option for the phase 2 2.2.

I don't believe that. If there are 2 places here in Duluth, MN that do them regularly, there's somebody that's done them in the Raleigh area. Make some phone calls, I bet there are. I'm sure someone will chime in with more head gasket experience than I, but conventional wisdom on Subaru head gaskets, is OEM Only. I'd also be curious what your failure is, I believe the '99 2.2 should be phase 2, which the common HG failure is an external oil leak.

Yep, only thing you will "gain" is noise...

First thing I would do, is hook up to the OBD II port and watch temperatures. The factory gauge will read "normal" from about 180*F to about 215*, and will be pegged in the red by about 225, so it only takes a few degrees to make the gauge move, if it's right at the edge. Also, only takes a small error in resistance for a 210* engine to read as a 230* engine, one is a problem, the other isn't, the ECU gets it's own temperature signal. The lack of a change in coolant level makes me question whether it's overheating at all. I would also use an infrared heat gun ($20 or less on Amazon), and start checking various coolant pipes, and spots on the engine block/heads directly. I want to clarify, it does not overheat on the highway? Or ONLY while idling? I ASSume mention of the timing belt means this is a 4-cylinder, yes? Is the temperature effected by any of the other HVAC controls? How about now that the core is bypassed. On the H4 cars, the temperature control is a cable to a blend door that directs air through or around the heater core. It's a very simple circuit. But it is crucial to making the thermostat work. The difference in temperatures in the radiator hoses means the coolant isn't circulating. Either there's a water bubble getting to the water pump and causing it to cavitate, or there's a blockage (could just be the thermostat doing it's job if it's not actually overheating). I echo the questions of heater hose temperature, and head gasket brand/application. Also brand of water pump, water pump gasket, and thermostat. Was any coolant stop leak ever used? Was the coolant ever changed? How many miles on the car?

I know the luggage cover is different because of a width difference. But I wouldn't imagine the whole body shell is different.

Subaru, what. Rear bearings went to bolt in hub assemblies when the rear suspension went to multi-link, so the knuckles are completely different. So, ASSuming this 2007 Subaru is Impreza based, you get press in bearings.

The top half of the picture isn't the bottom of the front cover? If not, I have no idea what I'm looking at...

I assume the 4 long bolts without the sleeves are for the engine crossmember bolts.

What a mess, with the crap on the front of the cover, I'd say it's coming from higher up. Front main seal, probably. Clean that thing off. You'll never pinpoint it with dirt and oil everywhere like that. Get a can or 2 of engine cleaner, grab a pair of ramps, and head to a coin-op car wash.

4-cylinder, I ASSume? Those are wasted spark, meaning if the coil was bad, it would effect #3 and #4 The FSM diagnostic page for P030x is 5 pages long, checking wiring, power supply, injector, vacuum leak, spark plug, compression, etc. If you know the plugs are good, I'd swap the injectors on that side, and pull the vacuum line off the regulator (vacuum dumps right into the #3 plenum). If it doesn't follow the injector, print out that diagnostic, get your DMM, and start testing.

99 22E has the former. They stopped the latter style in 1994.