Numbchux

My mom's car. She was driving up to visit my kids. Her AT Oil Temp light began flashing. Looked it up to find that being an error code, I told her to continue on carefully. After about 20 miles, the light came on solid, indicating transmission overheating. So she pulled off and let it cool off. I read a P2764 code (Lock up solenoid low). She got a rental car, and will be leaving hers with me, so I'll do some diagnostics this weekend, but the symptoms fit that the converter wasn't locking, which would generate quite a bit more heat on the highway. I remembered that solenoids are not available separately, and handing out valve bodies a lot when I worked at the dealership. Called over there, sure enough, they have one on the shelf (MSRP $808). So for nearly $1500. Quick google search pops up numerous individual solenoids available aftermarket for about $100. The valve body is on top of the transmission, theoretically accessible from the engine bay (don't have to drain the fluid!). I'll update with my findings. Any suggestions/experience appreciated.

The pros do not use gauges, only by weight. I work at an equipment dealer, where we do some A/C work. Not enough to justify a $1000+ machine. We buy 12oz cans instead of a keg, specifically for accuracy. If you're going to use a keg, you should at least have a scale to weigh it accurately.

Should be an EJ253 (variable valve timing SOHC 2.5). Wiring into the tailgate fatigues and breaks. If you get any electrical gremlins pertaining to taillights, defrost, rear wiper, etc., pull back the boot where the harness goes from the body to tailgate. Obviously wires can be repaired, but the whole harness from Subaru isn't too expensive (there are at least 3 part numbers, make sure to use your VIN. They were on the shelf at the dealership where I worked). Rear bushing for the front control arms is now mounted vertically, and has to flex when the suspension moves. Much more likely to wear out. Any trouble codes will disable cruise control I don't think a 2006 Base model would have an immobilizer, but double check. If it does, do not loose your last key!

If it hasn't worn through the caps into the yoke, the joints can be replaced. I've done a few myself (requires a press). Or a driveline shop can probably do it for pretty cheap. I've had the same luck with used ones, they're all junk.

Yea, it was weird on those older cars. The paint code listed was unique to the 2 tone cars. At the dealership where I worked, we had an old touch-up paint book that broke that into 2 separate paint codes.

Have you talked to an actual dealer parts department? I don't believe for a second that those are not available, we sold them all the time. But sometimes there are some oddball supersessions.

That's a start. Any more information that would be relevant? Vibration that worsens under load SCREAMS driveshaft ujoint. Pull the shaft and wiggle those joints around, I bet one of them is seized.

Yep, there's a little bushing between the shifter arm and the cable that is usually seized in there. There are 4 or 5 different numbers over the years, but the dealership I worked at stocked them, as it's a fairly common failure in this part of the world.

@Scott in Bellingham aka www.sjrlift.com does lifts and EJ adapter plates. I'm not sure if he takes on customer projects @GeneralDisorder aka http://superiorsoobie.com/ has a shop that's more than capable, but he's down near Portland

... I ASSume you did multi-link spacers... I helped a friend install the 2"/2" version of that kit on his 13 Forester several years ago. I believe there was a midpipe hanger attached to the body, and just leaving that one disconnected.

Yea, pictures would help. Also would help to know what brand and/or style of lift it is. But, I'd probably just tweak the hanger brackets a bit to lower the exhaust, or buy extended hangers.

Ha, good to know. I referenced this thread a couple weeks ago when someone in the Toyota groups was asking about a Subaru swap.

Here in the midwest, to completely repair, is to completely replace the exhaust system. The shields get broken, the hardware is wrecked, the mounting tabs are dissolved. Nope, rip the shields off, and weld up what's left underneath.

The mechanics at the dealership would hate putting on aftermarket cats for that exact reason, they never have provisions for heat shields. But yea, I chuck them, even with OEM cats.

All my heat shields go in the scrap pile. All they do is rattle.

I mean installing LED bulbs in the factory housing. Some vehicles (Outback not likely one of them....but I could be wrong about the newer ones) have LED headlight assemblies available for them, aftermarket or OEM, which have considerably different optics to utilize the different light source. HIDs require a Ballast, LEDs require a driver. Frequently, the driver is built into the back of the LED bulb assembly, sometimes it's installed in the wiring a few inches from the bulb. These generate heat, so there's some form of heat sync and frequently a cooling fan on there. The '00-04 Outbacks (I have 6...so this is usually what I'm working on) don't have very much room behind the bulb, so the LEDs with everything built into the bulb assembly don't generally fit, but some use a flexible heat sync braid which are more flexible and can fit into tighter spaces. But basically, a drop-in LED "bulb" isn't much more complicated to install than a replacement halogen. I recommend https://www.gtrlighting.com/ and https://www.diodedynamics.com/ for high quality replacements. Although I've used many cheap alternatives with some success.

When I worked at a dealership, that's all we did was throw in a new bulb. Didn't even use OEM ones, as the warranty would pay for aftermarket

Don't need to be the original owner. As long as it's not salvage. But, probably not worth the drive for headlight bulbs... I've used drop-in LED "bulbs" in several applications with good results (brighter, but without being any more obnoxious to other vehicles, I've been on the receiving end of all of our vehicles' lights). But, being that it's not what the optics were designed for, every combination should be carefully tested, and aimed (I install one LED and compare the 2 patterns against the side of my garage).

These were covered under an extended warranty. Give your local dealer a call. I don't know if that warranty is expired, but if not, you may be able to get them replaced for free. Also, if you can produce a receipt for when you bought aftermarket ones, you can get reimbursed for it. I've heard so many times that these were problematic. But I've never heard anything more than speculation on why (and therefore what the solution is). Yes, do not touch the glass on a headlight bulb. The oil from you fingers can cause the very thin glass of the bulb to break when it gets hot. LEDs will reduce the electrical draw, so will not be effected if there's an issue with the wiring. They will also not be effected by any moisture that might get into the lamp, etc. if that's the issue. You do have to be careful, as changing the type of bulb can have a drastic effect on the light pattern. It also might require disabling daytime running lights (on my '00-04 Outbacks, the DRL turns the low beam bulb on at a lower voltage, and putting LEDs in cause them to flicker badly).

The physical size is still standard, certainly through '04. The '90s cars used 2 DIN slots, and the '00-'04 Leg/OBK had 3. The one you linked is double-DIN, so will physically fit with no problem. The thing to watch for, is if the unit uses a separate amplifier. My '04 Outback has a McIntosh 6-disc, but it uses a separate amp under the passenger seat, and the speakers are wired to it, with a coax cable up to the dash. That would not be fun to duplicate.... I'd trace the part number on that radio, and study those diagrams to see if that's the case with this one. I don't like that it's got a second plug on the back. But it might work...

From my days working in aftermarket parts. Something like 85% of fuel pump warranty exchanges are caused by debris in them, which is why many manufacturers won't warranty one without proof of a pre-filter purchase and tank cleaning.

This is exactly correct. Turbo 5-speed EJs up to 2005 (certainly true in WRXs. FXT/LGT/OBXT might have switched in a different year) are pull-style. These use a different flywheel and pressure plate, but the disc itself is the same. The WRX switched back to a push-style in 2006, so stock replacement clutches for those are popular options for NA-T builds. I would highly recommend upgrading your pressure plate as well, the extra clamping force will help with disc wear as well. I can't imagine pulling the engine to replace clutch components and put the same pressure plate back in (and I've got almost 30k miles on a $50 eBay clutch kit in my '00).

I would correct this. That's almost certainly exacerbating the problem as it sounds like it's still pumping fuel into the engine when it's not running. There is zero good to running the pump longer than the ECU wants it, and plenty of risks. I would recommend wiring up the self-shutoff control like it should be (that's what one of those diodes is for). Jumper the read mode connectors (or, ground the wire from the ECU if those connectors are gone), and the CEL will flash out codes. Yea, figure out if it's just flooding one cylinder. Check the vacuum line after the FPR for fuel. Grab a noid light to see if the ECU is holding that injector open.

I missed the 2 years ago comment....yikes.

Assuming we're talking about the same thing, yes. All the brackets with the separate pulley/tensioner are the same. Or, grab the bracket from a newer car, and use the integrated tensioner. https://www.subarupartsdeal.com/parts/subaru-bracket-tensioner~13086aa012.html