Numbchux

All my heat shields go in the scrap pile. All they do is rattle.

I mean installing LED bulbs in the factory housing. Some vehicles (Outback not likely one of them....but I could be wrong about the newer ones) have LED headlight assemblies available for them, aftermarket or OEM, which have considerably different optics to utilize the different light source. HIDs require a Ballast, LEDs require a driver. Frequently, the driver is built into the back of the LED bulb assembly, sometimes it's installed in the wiring a few inches from the bulb. These generate heat, so there's some form of heat sync and frequently a cooling fan on there. The '00-04 Outbacks (I have 6...so this is usually what I'm working on) don't have very much room behind the bulb, so the LEDs with everything built into the bulb assembly don't generally fit, but some use a flexible heat sync braid which are more flexible and can fit into tighter spaces. But basically, a drop-in LED "bulb" isn't much more complicated to install than a replacement halogen. I recommend https://www.gtrlighting.com/ and https://www.diodedynamics.com/ for high quality replacements. Although I've used many cheap alternatives with some success.

When I worked at a dealership, that's all we did was throw in a new bulb. Didn't even use OEM ones, as the warranty would pay for aftermarket

Don't need to be the original owner. As long as it's not salvage. But, probably not worth the drive for headlight bulbs... I've used drop-in LED "bulbs" in several applications with good results (brighter, but without being any more obnoxious to other vehicles, I've been on the receiving end of all of our vehicles' lights). But, being that it's not what the optics were designed for, every combination should be carefully tested, and aimed (I install one LED and compare the 2 patterns against the side of my garage).

These were covered under an extended warranty. Give your local dealer a call. I don't know if that warranty is expired, but if not, you may be able to get them replaced for free. Also, if you can produce a receipt for when you bought aftermarket ones, you can get reimbursed for it. I've heard so many times that these were problematic. But I've never heard anything more than speculation on why (and therefore what the solution is). Yes, do not touch the glass on a headlight bulb. The oil from you fingers can cause the very thin glass of the bulb to break when it gets hot. LEDs will reduce the electrical draw, so will not be effected if there's an issue with the wiring. They will also not be effected by any moisture that might get into the lamp, etc. if that's the issue. You do have to be careful, as changing the type of bulb can have a drastic effect on the light pattern. It also might require disabling daytime running lights (on my '00-04 Outbacks, the DRL turns the low beam bulb on at a lower voltage, and putting LEDs in cause them to flicker badly).

The physical size is still standard, certainly through '04. The '90s cars used 2 DIN slots, and the '00-'04 Leg/OBK had 3. The one you linked is double-DIN, so will physically fit with no problem. The thing to watch for, is if the unit uses a separate amplifier. My '04 Outback has a McIntosh 6-disc, but it uses a separate amp under the passenger seat, and the speakers are wired to it, with a coax cable up to the dash. That would not be fun to duplicate.... I'd trace the part number on that radio, and study those diagrams to see if that's the case with this one. I don't like that it's got a second plug on the back. But it might work...

From my days working in aftermarket parts. Something like 85% of fuel pump warranty exchanges are caused by debris in them, which is why many manufacturers won't warranty one without proof of a pre-filter purchase and tank cleaning.

This is exactly correct. Turbo 5-speed EJs up to 2005 (certainly true in WRXs. FXT/LGT/OBXT might have switched in a different year) are pull-style. These use a different flywheel and pressure plate, but the disc itself is the same. The WRX switched back to a push-style in 2006, so stock replacement clutches for those are popular options for NA-T builds. I would highly recommend upgrading your pressure plate as well, the extra clamping force will help with disc wear as well. I can't imagine pulling the engine to replace clutch components and put the same pressure plate back in (and I've got almost 30k miles on a $50 eBay clutch kit in my '00).

I would correct this. That's almost certainly exacerbating the problem as it sounds like it's still pumping fuel into the engine when it's not running. There is zero good to running the pump longer than the ECU wants it, and plenty of risks. I would recommend wiring up the self-shutoff control like it should be (that's what one of those diodes is for). Jumper the read mode connectors (or, ground the wire from the ECU if those connectors are gone), and the CEL will flash out codes. Yea, figure out if it's just flooding one cylinder. Check the vacuum line after the FPR for fuel. Grab a noid light to see if the ECU is holding that injector open.

I missed the 2 years ago comment....yikes.

Assuming we're talking about the same thing, yes. All the brackets with the separate pulley/tensioner are the same. Or, grab the bracket from a newer car, and use the integrated tensioner. https://www.subarupartsdeal.com/parts/subaru-bracket-tensioner~13086aa012.html

Timing belt tensioner? Yes.

Yes, dash has to come out for that repair. Talk to the dealer, they should make it right.

Aluminum, to be specific. It transfers a lot of heat energy into the adjacent parts, without burning things. Extremely helpful.

Everything was reusable after heating that up. And it made a HUGE difference.

Yea, sounds like it is not binding in the threads, but seized into the steel sleeve that's bonded to the bushing in the crossmember. So yea, the rubber will absorb a lot of the motion from the impact wrench. You can kind of see it here: 20191012_175953 by Numbchux, on Flickr I just spent some time with the catalogs, and it looks like that bushing is not available separately (from Subaru, a quick google search didn't turn up anything, but I didn't do a deep dive). Does the sleeve stick out enough at the bottom that you might be able to grab it with a pliers/vice-grip? I don't know what else to tell you. Keep it soaked in penetrating oil. And heating that spacer made a considerable difference with mine, and it was the bolt seized into the captive nut, so it transfers quite a bit of heat into adjacent parts. 2019-10-14_08-20-28 by Numbchux, on Flickr

The spacer between the subframe and body is aluminum, I found this extremely effective at transferring heat without damaging things when I removed the subframe in my '00. Interesting test of penetrating oil. I keep Deep Creep around since watching this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=st8dkGzJWtg Although, if I'm picturing what's happening correctly. If that sleeve is spinning inside the bushing, the bushing is wrecked anyway.

Yes, running 10 feet of 5/16, and then necking it down to 3/16 defeats the purpose. T it into the vent line or something (I've been reading up about converting our boat to EFI, and this is generally how it's done). But yea, for testing purposes, into a separate container is fine (you know, fire hazard and such). It won't turn over at all? If so, it may be hydrolocked. Try turning it over by hand, if not, pull the plugs and crank it. Does the ECU control the fuel pump? Or is it staying on when the engine isn't running? I've been approaching this as if it's been just running really rich. But if it's actually filled the cylinder and hydrolocked the engine, then fuel is getting in while the engine is off.

It may be possible to do in the car, but it's going to be a nightmare. Like the DOHC 4-cylinders, the cams have to be removed to access the head bolts. When you take the exhaust cams out, the exhaust buckets will fall out unless you can roll the engine on it's side. If you insist on doing the repair, do yourself the favor, and pull the engine. @GeneralDisorder, do you have a preferred JDM importer?

The VDC system uses a yaw sensor, steering sensor, wheel speed sensors, and more information from the ECU and TCU to determine if it thinks you're sliding sideways and can grab the brakes individually via the ABS pump to help regain control. If the VDC light isn't on all the time, you probably don't have an issue with any of those sensors themselves. But if the suspension isn't in good shape, that can throw off the readings. Our '04 VDC would grab the brakes on some LH curves until I got an alignment, but worn suspension components (ball joints, rod ends, shocks/struts and of course any of the 18 bushings) can confuse the system. I bought some Rallitek overload rear springs and KYB Excel Gs that will be going on our "new" '02 VDC once I get to it.

Yea, been tried a couple times. I typed "reuse ML..." into Google, it autofilled to "reuse MLS head gasket" and gave thousands of results. I randomly clicked on a page, and found a post on this very forum.

I've done several, but can't picture exactly how it came apart. But I removed the board with the brushes on it from the case, and installed it on the shaft first, and then put the case over the top.

I, too, have replaced several. My '04 35th ann Outback was seized solid. I messed with it for awhile, swapped the handle for one from a parts car, and there was no change. After playing with the linkages for a bit, it turned out to be a seized lock cylinder not fully returning to the "open" position.

Axles are definitely different. 01 will have male splines on the transmission the others will have female. Off the top of my head, I'd say the LGT and Forester are likely 4.44, Impreza probably 4.11. I know the version 2 of the phase 2 transmission started in 2004, which is why the transmission in my '04 VDC is unique to that year. I know the valve body changed, but exactly how it changed and how it would function in the other vehicle, I do not know. Spend some time with the FSMs, specifically the TCM I/O pages and see what information is going between it and the solenoids. It might work OK, or you might be able to wire the solenoids so you can manually have 1st and 2nd.

dealership. They likely have bags of them