Numbchux

Well, I decided to pull the LH taillight access cover from the inside off and see what I could see. Not only does the hose run down there, but there's a connector right there. Disconnected it, pushed the button, and fluid came out.... So it may be leaking before that under pressure, but it's at least connected. At this rate, I'll have it figured out by next year.

... Need to sort out if it's a coolant flow issue, or an airflow issue.

Don't just throw parts at it. Test. Diagnose. '91 Legacy can still display trouble codes even though it's not OBD II. ASSuming the Legacy that the fuel filter was designed for was fuel injected, than you have an EFI filter. Yes, the carbed EA81 uses considerably less pressure than the EJ22. You should have upgraded all rubber hoses and clamps on the pressure side to handle that. But I'm not asking about pressure, I'm asking about volume/flow. Carter's web site says minimum free flow is 21 (no mention of unit. The only one that sort of make sense is Gallons per hour, but even that seems low). '92 Legacy FSM specs the MPFI N/A EJ22 with a 21.1gph pump at 36.3psi, so on paper that actually sounds low, but since it's meant to supply fuel injected V8s up to 7.5L....I would think it would have enough. You have fuel pressure gauges on inlet and return? What do they say?

Does it run OK? Any codes? If you're washing the cylinders walls enough to get fuel past the rings and into the oil, I expect it to be running pig rich. Sound about right? EA81s have a smaller return line, not intended for fuel injection. What's the volume of that pump you're running? If it's higher than stock EJ22, it's possible your return line is restricting and overpowering the regulator. You could put a fuel pressure gauge in after the regulator to see if that side of the circuit is pressurizing.

The factory service manual has a several page diagnostic chart for P030x codes. Tune-up is definitely the place to start, but it could be any one of about a dozen things. Ranging from a loose hose to a blown engine and everything in between.

I started with the FSM and parts diagrams. Nothing definitive that I can find.

Yep, I'd put a multi meter on the system (even just to the cigarette lighter plug) and see what it looks like while running and revving. Use a paint pen or white out to draw a line across the face of crank pulley, then you can tell if the outer ring moves. Check belt tension. You have checked *all* grounds? And you are 100% confident all contacts are making good connection, and wires have good continuity?

1998 Forester. Rear washer doesn't work. I was sitting in the garage last night with everything else off, and not only can I hear the pump running, but it sounds like I'm hearing it spray out under the car, but I suppose it could be under the carpet under the driver's seat. Anyone know how that's routed? Parts page just shows a couple sections of hose (is it actually rubber hose the whole way, or is it hard tube at some point?) with no reference how that goes on the body.

I have 2 concerns. 1. Overcooling. Depending on how you're using it, the factory exchanger in the radiator is warming the fluid more than cooling it. And a condenser is going to provide a lot of surface area. Although it won't have much air flow through it, so it might not be an issue... 2. Volume/flow/pressure. I'd be concerned that the ports at the end tanks and/or passages in the exchanger itself would be too small for the volume of flow being pumped through it. The condenser (as the name implies) is designed to have a pressure and state-of-matter difference across it, where a trans cooler is not. If it's a short and easy drive, I'd probably just loop the hoses. If there's some distance, and/or are likely to have some load on it (hills, mud, snow, etc.), I'd probably bend a loop of NiCopp hard line in front of the radiator. Either way, I would then keep an eye on temperatures with an OBDII scanner (if it's new enough) or an infrared gun, and upgrade as necessary.

I use Amazon a lot, for a lot of things. But as mentioned you have to be very careful about counterfeit parts. Basically if it's anything that I care about brand or quality at all, I avoid Amazon. With the fleet of cars that I own, and fact that they all need parts, I'm constantly shopping around. I keep a spreadsheet with all the upcoming parts purchases, and a separate page for each car. I ALWAYS start with OEM part number and price. www.partsouq.com has complete, VIN specific parts diagrams. They also sell a lot of parts, OEM and quality aftermarket for a good price. It does ship from the UAE, though (pretty reasonable price and time frame, although should you need a refund for some reason, you are at the mercy of exchange rates to get back what you spent). www.subarupartsdeal.com to check price and availability (looks like partsforyou has similar information. I've ordered from Toyotapartsdeal many times, so I also use their Subaru site). www.rockauto.com. I make a several hundred dollar purchase from them about 3 times a year. I wait until I need a big list, and order all at once to save on shipping. Lately I've been using www.carid.com more and more. They have some really good prices on genuine Mitsuboshi belts, NSK bearings, Aisin hard parts, etc. I just bought timing parts for my Lexus 1UZ engine for about a third the price of OEM. Wiper blades are a huge profit source for brick and mortar stores. I've been buying Bosch Evolution beam blades on Rockauto for about $5 ea, and they're ~$15 in stores. Dealership parts departments generally use one of 2 pricing structures, Matrix or Velocity (sometimes a combination of both). Matrix marks up above MSRP on low-dollar parts, generally anything under $300 or so will be ~15% over MSRP. Velocity marks up slow moving parts above MSRP, and fast moving/easy to compare parts below it. The dealership I worked at sold 4-cyl oil filters for $4.95 for that reason. It's a good idea to compare your parts to MSRP, and get an idea of their pricing structure so you can use it to your advantage.

A slow leak will slowly introduce air into the system, and the smaller the bubble, the smaller the symptoms. So it's possible. I'd definitely pressurize the system and look for other leaks.

Assuming it's just the clutches that are burnt up, no, it won't hurt anything. If it cooked the bearings back there, it's possible to have an issue. Yes, the driveshaft output and center "diff" housing uses the same ATF as the transmission. Front differential/front axle outputs has it's own gear oil.

Transfer clutches in the back of the transmission. These wear out under normal use, so I'm sure they're cooked. Pretty well documented how to replace them, can be done in the car.

Bad connection somewhere. Like these guys said, could be in the circuit up to the ignition switch, a heavy duty relay would take the load off of that, or the contacts in the starter are wearing (or both, one can cause the other).

5 speed? 4-speed? Factory tire size? Other modifications? IIRC, low 20s was about as good as I ever saw in my 4EAT AWD '6. So you're not terribly low for city driving. If there aren't any other symptoms, I wouldn't mess with it. Maybe take a look at the coolant temp sensor, those can get corroded and nasty and read incorrectly, which would cause it to run rich.

Probably best to be familiar with the diagnostic mode of the Auto A/C, so some tests can be run when it's acting up.

Feel the heater hoses. Hot upper hoses and cold bottom means the thermostat is almost certainly working (at the very least, there isn't any flow through the radiator, but if the coolant level was low or had bigger circulation problems, the engine would likely be hot and the upper hose wouldn't). If one heater hose is hot, there isn't flow there, likely core is plugged. If they're both hot, then it's an issue with the control (air is being diverted around the core, it's not calling for heat). There's a diagnostic procedure for the auto temp control in the FSM, I haven't had to mess with it on our '00-'04s, and I avoid the 05+

Yep, that's the tone wheel for the crank angle sensor. It's junk now.

Well, the exhaust and port is similar to the EZ30, but beyond that, the head has nothing in common.

Very interesting pictures. It looks as if the head casting might be the same, and just the ports machined out differently.

You're forgetting the '04-05 EJ259. Single port exhaust similar to an EZ30. AFAIK, the only thing unique about the 259 is intake and sensor related. The Block and probably heads are the same.

AWIC leakage is pretty rare, certainly on anything with any quality. But, they are a much more complicated system, and getting core/exchanger/pump all working together is kind of a challenge. I highly doubt you're making enough heat on an EA82t to justify all that. Just a simple early WRX one would be perfect.

Needs a whole control arm? If you're desperate, the dealer will be the most accurate way. They come with the ball joint, where aftermarket typically does not, but they can usually be had in a day or 2, and you'll be completely sure it's correct (looked up by VIN).

For the record, I took "back up" to mean reverse. But this is a much larger circuit, providing constant power to many circuits, and I don't think any of them are in the rear hatch.

Back up lights are in the hatch, right? These are notorious for having damaged wiring between the body and the rear gate. The dealership where I worked stocked rear gate harnesses (MSRP was about $85, I think there are 3 different part numbers, use your VIN to look up). Obviously individual wires can be repaired, but this will not be the first time you have it happen.