Numbchux

4.444 and 1.59 gears interfere a bit, and require a bit of machining to clear each other, but it's not too bad. Some aftermarket LSD front diffs do not clear low range gears. I have a FT4WD, D/R EA82 gearbox apart and modified for 1.59 low, 4.444 EJ R&P, 23 spline stub axles, phase 2 EJ center diff (if I ever got motivated again, I'd send this off to be rebuild to 20kg), and a carbonetic clutch-type front LSD. When I went to assemble, and realized that the low range is hard against the front diff....I walked away. That was probably 5 years ago.... I can't really bring myself to put much into it, as our bone-stock '04 H6 Outback with the 4EAT is faster, more comfortable, almost as capable (would be with a 2" lift), and easier to drive (on and off road).

The ECU will have power and sensor grounds. Ideally, these be separate wires to separate grounding points on the engine block. Power ground probably could be grounded to the chassis, but the signal ground is the reference for all the sensors, any extra resistance there will throw off the sensor readings. My engine swap harnesses are completely grounded through the block, no grounds into the bulkhead harness or chassis. You'll have to pick through the grounding and engine control diagrams and make sure all are present, and have continuity across them.

Is that a bung welded shut after the cat? Yea, you should have an upstream and downstream.

If rust is a possibility, messing with all that suspension stuff if you don't have to is big bad news. Even if rust isn't a concerned, doing all that work while under the car is for the birds. If you don't have a hoist and transmission jack, pull the engine to change the clutch. And yes, much easier to remove the ball joint from the control arm, than from the knuckle.

Yep, diff is best

Manual transmission Subarus have a viscous center diff. If you disconnect any of the 4 wheels, the center diff will just spin basically all the torque to that wheel (think horrendously slipping clutch, I saw a car driven across a perfectly flat shop floor that way, but it couldn't climb a 1" lip to get into the shop). Of course, if it was an automatic, you could buy a rocker switch and switch it to FWD. But you don't want to talk about those.

I modded the wiring on my '00 a couple years ago. I didn't have any trouble finding it. Pretty sure I had to drop the glovebox.

If it's an automatic and you have a broken rear axle, it will still drive. Putting the fuse in will keep it from sending power to the back, but either way the front is 100% driven. If it's a manual. The only way to send 100% power is by welding the center diff. Easier to just replace the axle.

I agree on the EA82 chassis being junk. With an adapter plate, modified flywheel, custom linkage, custom crossmember, custom driveshaft, front axles that can only come from a '93-'94 FWD 5MT Impreza and probably swap the rear differential, the EA82 transmission could be put in the Legacy. Yes, you'd get true 4WD instead of AWD, and low range. But it's not much of a low range. It's a little better if the terrain you're on is very technical, but worse to drive on the pavement (true 4WD means you have to put it in 2WD, which is front wheel drive). Not worth it, IMO. Yea, they basically changed everything (sometimes only a little bit...) when they went from the EA to EJ chassis for 1990 (I bet you'll find the one Legacy is a 1990, even if it was made in 89). A lot of that is based on the XT6, so XT6 parts can bridge the gap to use EJ parts on an EA82, and some things can be modified to work, but unless you're really set on using the old chassis it isn't worth it.

Adding relays like that takes the load off the factory system. The existing relays will only be triggering the new relays, so no need to upgrade them. The diagram looks largely correct. Subarus typically use a switched ground system (I'm not sure about EA81s, but everything newer certainly does). Meaning the existing wires listed there will be grounded, not powered. Which means you'll need to reverse the polarity of the relay (pin 86 will need a power source, instead of ground). I'm doing essentially the same thing with my 4Runner right now (as part of a larger project). Mounting underhood relays, running shorter runs of larger gauge power wires to the relays. The voltage drop through ~35 year old factory connectors and relays is pretty severe under load.

I don't have any experience with them, but judging from the enormous scope of parts that they list, I doubt they actually stock anything, probably just drop ship from other sources. Which means I would not trust what they say they have in stock. I suspect they are one of these sources that just wants to get your information and then they can sell you something else, or tell you the parts are backordered indefinitely. Just my speculation...

As mentioned, the ECU has absolutely nothing to do with the lights. Start at the fuse box. Check all the fuses and fusible links. Look for corrosion.

EJ22G? Like a 22B engine? Some debate. Common wisdom for years is that DOHC EJs do not fit between EA81 frame rails. But in recent years (mostly on facebook), there have been several saying that they do *just* fit, or that it's only the timing belt cover that hits, which can be easily trimmed.

You will encounter things. Hoses and wiring in the engine bay will be effected. I don't remember exactly (Probably been 10 years since my last EA82 lift, and most were already modified to some extent). Engine and transmission will be lowered from the body by 2-3" so stuff happens, can't always predict it, you'll just have to be creative. SJR is @Scott in Bellingham, maybe he'll chime in. Or send him a message (here or elsewhere. He's pretty active on Facebook). Pitch stopper won't fit anymore. Can be modified. I left it off a couple cars and didn't notice any difference Just reroute it under the pitch stopper. Didn't have any trouble on any of mine.

Should be pretty similar. I've installed kits from both guys, and they both make good stuff. SJR has been around longer, and been a long time contributor to the community to help develop some of these modifications. I also really like that many of his components are cast aluminum.

Yea, the steering shaft should be the same. If it's different, I suspect what you've got is an EA81 rack.

There's a few places that could cause an issue. The EA82s had a connector in the steering column to the ignition switch that would melt and get a bad contact to the starter circuit. I drove my Frankenwagon for quite some time, occasionally having to push up on the plastics in the bottom of the steering column to get it to make contact. Eventually I bypassed the connector and never had an issue again.

I don't get the impression that a clean shell is difficult to find in your area, and one without a clean title is not going to stand out. Here, in the land of rusted out hulks, a clean shell would pull $1500. But I see cars with blown engines and otherwise average condition listed for $3-800. If it really just needs an engine, you're probably loosing more in resale than the cost of fixing, even if you're paying someone to do it.

I mounted Yakima 1A mounts on my EA82s (and XT6s) with the trim installed a couple times, had to pull the trim out a bit to get the rack mount behind it, and then the clamp went down over the top of it. I didn't love it, so I pulled the trim off on some of them (XT6s for sure).

Not for fuel injection hose. Stuff is not cheap. Subarus only have a few sections of rubber hose, maybe 18" a piece. Measure the section you're replacing. You can use low pressure fuel hose for the return line, but do not use anything other than fuel injection hose for the supply line.

future reference, a flathead screwdriver in the seam of the cone washer usually pops it out without drama.

I hate to do this, but time to fire up the old search engines. Been documented many many many many many many many many many times. There are probably thousands of different methods and combinations. Hints: Your '87 GL-10 is an EA82 chassis. Motor mounts are the same for all EJ engines (as far as how they bolt to the engine crossmember). "Somebody" spent an enormous amount of their life compiling an EJ swap manual over 10 years ago, while it focuses on the simpler SOHC EJ22, a DOHC turbo version will be very similar. There have been STi versions of the WRX model for 26 years globally, and 16 years in the US. While the mechanical challenges of fitting it in your car are basically all the same (To date, they all use EJ series engines), there's a huge variation in these engines. If you want more specific answers, ask more specific questions. Presumeably your GL10 is already turbo, if not, you'll need a turbo engine crossmember or custom exhaust. Spend a couple dozen hours studying all the EJ-swapped EA82 cars, even the simple EJ18 and EJ22 ones (and of course, the turbo ones). Then spend another couple dozen hours studying turbo swaps into base model Imprezas and Legacies.

Well, the truth is, you won't find anything as simple and unkillable as an EA81 or early EJ22 made in the last 20 years. Cost, emissions and fuel efficiency have all come before longevity. The first gen EZ30 is probably the closest, but if it does go wrong, it's a lot harder to work on. But, compared to other offerings in that vintage, the EJ252/253 are pretty decent engines. The 08 will be a EJ253 (assuming it's not a turbo), which means variable valve timing. Probably an immobilizer ($200 key). And if the check engine light comes on, it disables the cruise.

My 2000 has 330k on it. Head gaskets fail ~80-100k miles, but they virtually always is just an oil leak. Check the oil and don't park over nice concrete, and keep driving it. I bought our 03 with 110k and leaking gasket, drove it to over 150k before fixing it and selling it. It's annoying, but won't leave you stranded.

Nope. I can't even think of any with an even number.