Numbchux

Agreed on the pins. When you replace the caliper, is it semi-loaded (comes with a bracket)? If you're reusing the bracket/pins, that's probably the problem. I keep a very close eye on my caliper slides on all my vehicles, and periodically clean and regrease them. Having far less issues since I started using Permatex Ceramic high temp brake lube.

Not much I can add here.... But FYI, a 2011 OBS will be a 4-speed 4EAT transmission. Last year in the Impreza chassis.

Yep, check for trouble codes. It's probably trying to tell you what's wrong. Pull the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator and see if there's fuel in there. That can cause some weird running issues. Question the age and condition of the spark plugs and wires. If it's a 2.5 (96 Outback could be either one, autos had the 2.5, manuals had the 2.2) the plugs aren't terribly easy to get to, so have new Copper NGKs ready if you're going to check them. The 2.2 is pretty easy to pull one and inspect it.

"when you punch it", what if you roll gently into the throttle? It's completely normal for an electronically controlled transmission to skip from 4th to 2nd in necessary situations.

Yes, when changing ride height, the "correct" procedure is to loosen the bolt for any bushing that twists around the bushing during travel and retorque it at ride height.

So, your tail lights are on, but not the front parking lights? If that's the case, that's quite the issue. Might be something simple, but that's not likely the stop light. I suspect you've got broken/shorted wires, and/or corroded sockets and blown fuses. Do your front parking lights come on at all? Get a good wiring diagram (jdmfsm.info) and multimeter, and start testing.

Yep, been done hundreds, maybe thousands, of times.

Subarus use diagonal systems, one circuit will be LF/RR and the other RF/LR. It does not matter which is which. The 2-port master is for the ABS cars, because the ABS system is the "T" that splits the 2 circuits into 4. The hill holder does the same. So yes, you can just use a splitter. Similarly, you can use a 4-port master (non-ABS, non-hill holder) by blocking off the extra ports. Off the top of my head, the Loyale is probably a 7/8 bore, and the Legacy is probably 1". This will reduce the mechanical advantage between the master and the caliper/cylinders. Good option if you've also replaced with larger capacity calipers, though (I have a 1 1/16" SVX master in my XT6, but I also have early WRX front calipers, and 200SX rears)

01-04 Outback VDCs are the only cars I want for a daily driver. I LOVE the first gen EZ30D (2nd gen means immobilizer, which adds a heap of complexity, expensive keys, and a CEL disables the cruise).

I've always been taught to use a little dielectric grease on plug wires so they don't stick during install or removal and to keep any moisture out.

subaruairbagrecall.us doesn't appear to have a website (could still be a valid email, but suspicious). No mention of any mobile repair/contact on https://www.subaru.com/vehicle-recalls/airbags.html Here's a job posting on LinkedIn, though. https://www.linkedin.com/jobs/view/recall-specialist-at-marketsource-inc-1692844397 F'n weird

I worked at a dealer parts department for a few years. We sold a lot of plug wires, never had a warranty claim, and reused them whenever possible. I wouldn't pay their prices for them, personally. I've had great luck with aftermarket wires.

That's crazy, haven't heard of that. I would make some phone calls to make sure it's legit. It easily could be, though. I know Honda is going to great lengths to get these done (since they used Takatas in the driver's side, it's considerably more dangerous).

Join the group "Six Swapped Subarus" on Facebook. There's a couple guys there that have decoded the ROM to delete the auto transmission related code.

The front diff pinion shaft in a manual transmission AWD (EJ) transmission is considerably shorter than a FT4WD one (on a PT4WD the pinion shaft is one piece with the output shaft). But, I refer to what I said earlier

Not returning to center makes me suspect strut tops. Clunking is frequently sway bar/link bushings, but wouldn't effect your steering. Just disconnect it to test it.

I love XT6s and ER27s, but no. Not at all worth the work to swap it in this day and age. EJ22 is smaller, lighter, more reliable, more fuel efficient, better supported. ER27 ECU is mounted in the trunk, so you basically have to make a harness from scratch to swap it. Or spend the dough on a standalone. They use a different bellhousing pattern, so if you change your mind, you will need a different transmission adapter. If you want a 6-cylinder, get an EZ30. Modern, reliable, powerful. Don't mess with anything more than 20 years old (sorry EG33....getting to be a dinosaur as well).

I'm really not clear what you're asking. The center diff (on the rear of the transmission) has nothing to do with low range. And is COMPLETELY different between an auto and manual. In just about every single detail. You could put a dual-range 5MT into an XT6, but you can't put MT internals into an AT.

That's a very small change. Should be fine.

My blue '88 was like $100 in 2004. Broke a timing belt about 1/2 mile from where I bought it. If you had warm air in the heater vents, then the water pump was still working. Probably didn't overheat it.

Being that I live relatively close to the border, I'm familiar with the fact that parts are generally cheaper here. I regularly deal with customers from Canada, BUT, from the dealerships that I have worked, shipping stuff into Canada is a contract violation. But there's a general store right at the border that we ship to all the time. So yea, I gave my recommendation for a retailer. Maybe they can ship to you...

Possible? Maybe. But with the addition of timing chain components, I think it would make the project significantly harder (and therefore more likely to have problems). You won't find an aftermarket source for formed hoses for that stuff. Spend some time with the catalogs (partsouq.com has VIN specific OEM parts diagrams) and make a parts list and order them online. I've ordered from the Toyota equivalent of www.Subarupartsdeal.com, I love that their website will tell you that a parts is discontinued right away instead of play games, so I go out of my way to support that. But I imagine you'd be better off finding something in Canada.

Not on a 6-cylinder

Any other codes? In the FSM, the diagnostic for misfires on all 6 (the last of 21 diagnostic steps, but the only one that addresses all 6 cylinders) and no other codes is: Repair or replace faulty parts. NOTE: Check the following items. • Spark plug • Ignition coil • Fuel injector • Compression

It took a minute to get my bearings. This is looking in the driver's wheel well towards the front, correct? Looks like the back of the corner light and fog light in the distance. Looks like you nearly had a fire! You are likely going to be chasing electrical gremlins with that car for the rest of it's life. This is a fantastic example why that fender liner is so important. Download the correct wiring diagrams (www.jdmfsm.info is a great source). The best fix (other than a new harness) is to pull that harness loose from the front of the car, and lay it out of the fender, and cut the tape and loom back so you can inspect and repair every wire in that section. I wouldn't be surprised if you'd have 10-15 hours of your life into that. Pull the fuse box out, and empty several cans of brake or contact cleaner into the bottom of it. You might have decent luck tracing and repairing individual problems, but you will have more. And yea, get a fender liner on there. I saw an old turbo legacy sent to the crusher because it didn't have a fender liner, and kept having electrical problems. It wasn't the greatest car, but if someone had spent $20 on a crappy aftermarket liner, it would have been driven for many more years.