Numbchux

Nope. As I mentioned, I've been running stock '92 FWD Legacy front axles/knuckles on 3 of my cars without issues. Now, this is not the first time we've heard of axles bottoming out, and I haven't seen a pattern on what definitely does work and what doesn't.

The cars are about 35 years old...I'm sure everything you can think of has been done (and probably more). The only one I can think of was a Brat on a Toyota frame, with the Toyota drivetrain, but if you open that can of worms, there have been V8s, V6s, and more.... Anything is possible (a close friend of mine has a turbo LS V8 in a '98 Legacy GT, and he's not even close to the first), but there are a million variables based on the details of different engines, different budgets, different skills, and different goals. Generally speaking, the stock engine crossmember is very intrusive into the engine bay for anything other than a horizontally-opposed engine. A good fabricator could make a tube crossmember that is less intrusive, but you're limited on steering rack placement without getting into steering geometry. With a lift, you could move that all down away from the body, and get quite a bit more space. The next challenge, is a boxer 4 is a very short (lengthwise) engine, which is what allows it to be pushed forward enough to put the front diff behind it. If you ditch the front drive, and are just going RWD, you can push the engine way further back. Then you have to consider rear diff strength.

Might be worth it to someone. But I can't imagine spending $10k for an SVX. Yes, VTD is awesome (I have an Outback VDC with it. Completely transforms the winter performance) but it's just a really nice SVX that you can't go through the drive-thru with. Give me something we didn't get here. An ST205 GT4, or a Eunos Cosmo...

I've been using the same pair of axles/knuckles on my Loyale (with XT6 arms) and both XT6s. Came from a '92 FWD Legacy. They work just like stock. According to RockAuto, the TrakMotiv axles for the '02 Outback are only 1/8" longer than the '92 Legacy, so that shouldn't be a bit difference. The '02+ Impreza Sedan axles are definitely longer. You definitely have to avoid those.

You have much better options available to you. Plumbing oil and coolant lines isn't difficult. You could pay a machine shop to modify heads to add the ports for a tiny fraction of the cost of the shipping from here (not to mention it can be DIY'd with half decent tools). Yea, they can perform, I've probably seen a hundred builds like that, even helped hands-on on one about 15 years ago which had a Link standalone and almost every supporting mod solely to see the limits of the SOHC heads. He swapped to EJ25D DOHC heads (still with N/A Cams) and performed so much better in every way.

That is a seriously strange symptom....I can't even speculate what that would be without an inspection. The question is if it's a VDC or LL Bean. The LL Bean transmission is the same as the 4 Cylinder ones. The VDCs have a different AWD/center diff, so they are a unique transmission, but still available. I own 2 Outback VDCs, both with over 200k miles on them. I love them. We took our '04 on a 3600 mile round trip from here in northern MN to my inlaws' house in SC. Loaded down (we had our 1 year old daughter with us), A/C cranked, and cruise at ~75mph+, fantastic car. I covet no other car in terms of inexpensive, reliable, versatile, comfortable transportation. The bearings in the serpentine belt idler and tensioner have a tendency to fail with very little warning on the 6-cylinders. So it's a good idea to pull the belt and check those periodically. The bearing itself can be replaced fairly easily and inexpensively. There are also a pair of steel coolant tubes on the bottom of the engine (one across the front of the oil pan for the oil cooler, and another under the drivers head that goes back to the heater core) that tend to rust here in the rust belt.

'96 EJ22 is going to be single exhaust port. Everything '90-'95 will have dual ports. So your exhaust manifold will have to change to match. 22t heads would be the same, but the cams will be cut different for the turbo application. You'd want to get N/A cams from the same year (I don't know the details on this, but when I had Delta grind some cams for me years ago, there were at least a couple different versions in those years). No you don't....Those heads and ECU are good for nothing more than stock power (and stock EJ22t power is nothing to brag about).

Yep. oxy-acetylene is way hotter, but cumbersome and expensive. MAPP torch is just like a handheld propane torch, but hotter (MAPP tank is yellow, vs blue for Propane). Find them in the plumbing section almost anywhere.

Yea, my MAPP torch is always nearby. I've probably had it for 15 years, and only had to buy 3 or 4 new bottles, but it's gotten me out of many sticky situations. Penetrating oil helps, but nothing works like heat. An air hammer is extremely useful, but that will destroy whatever it touches, but with some careful use, you can spin off a rounded/rusted nut without damaging the stud.

Yep. It was almost 15 years ago, so a lot has changed, but mostly still relevant.

Anything that connects to the body harness. Power wires. Temperature and oil pressure.

Basically. I find and identify every wire in the diagrams before I decide what to do with it. If it's not needed, I cut as much of it out as I can (I usually leave about 3", just in case I made a mistake). If it will be needed but not the connector, I leave as much as possible, and coil it up and mark it with masking tape. Yes, the EA81 harness is extremely simple by comparison, so just leave it as-is and splice in where you need to. There will be a half a dozen wires or so that are made redundant, but no big deal. Easiest to leave it all there to control body circuits (lights, dash, etc.).

2003 Got larger caliper pistons on the Outbacks, even though the rotor was the same as the previous few years. I assume the same change was made on the Forester, but I don't know what year off the top of my head. It's a small change, just something to watch for to make sure you get a matched pair. Pads changed 2002-2003 depending on exact model/build date, but surface area stayed the same. Yes, still 10mm banjo fittings. The only thing that changed on the lines is how they mount to the strut.

Switching to a 16" wheel probably went to a larger (wider, at least) tire. The extra weight reduces braking, and if they're any taller OD, that reduces braking leverage. Relatively small change, but still worth considering. This is why the otherwise-identical cars with wider (LGT) or taller (Outback) tires got larger brakes. Your observation of the rear brakes heating up at different rates tells me that they're not working correctly. Here's what I like to do when servicing brake systems. It is very effective, and requires no disassembly other than removing a wheel. I open the bleeder and compress the caliper with it still bolted to the car. This is more effective at removing the worst brake fluid (much moreso than a conventional flush). And once the piston is compressed, you can slide the caliper back and forth and make sure the slides work (crucially, that they work together, I've seen slides that move individually that bind when bolted to the caliper).

Yep, don't leave cars sitting for extended periods with the parking brake on.

Agreed. If the system works as it was intended, it'll be fine. Consider wheel size. Your L may have 14s (my '97 L did). You won't be able to increase your brake size without increasing your wheel size. 276s require 15s and 294s require 16s (it is possible to grind the caliper down to fit some 15s over these).

If you're going lifted, get an '85-'89 part-time 4WD dual range transmission. Much better offroad performance. It'll bolt up to the EA82, but you will need an adapter plate for the EJ22. Should be the same axle ratio, so you don't have to swap the rear diff. You'll loose the push-button (and relays, and solenoids, and vacuum lines) in favor of a mechanical lever.

You might be able to just reset the preload and get away with it. I'd definitely want to drop the front diff gear oil before I considered saving that transmission (if that has been backing out for awhile, it could have chewed up bearings and/or gears). If it's not a VDC (unique transmission), just grab a used transmission and toss it in. If it is a VDC, that may still be an option, but not nearly as easy...

A lot of options. What do you plan to do with the car? Just a simple daily driver with stock suspension? Lift and offroading? Lowering and other street mods? Any transmission that will bolt up to the EA82, will require an adapter plate to bolt to the EJ22. If you're going EJ anyway, I'd hold out and put an EJ transmission in it as the FWD will be pretty much useless with the EJ22.

Jack the front end up, spin the tire, and watch the different parts of the CV axle (Inner and outer joints, shaft, boots) and see if they all spin together. Could be a front diff, but FAR more likely that it's one of the axles. Also, do not drive it like this. The engine revving up is a result of the transfer clutch slipping, it is not designed to take 100% of the load 100% of the time.

AFAIK, yes, in other markets the filters are made in Japan (Denso?). But here in the US, the 2 most common filters (15208aa12a and 15208aa15a, Basically EJ, and FB) ones are sourced here in the US and made by Honeywell. There are a few part numbers (15208aa031, 15208aa130, and 15208aa170, H6, 11 Forester/FA, and Direct Injected WRX) that are available here and made in Japan. From what I've seen, OE filters frequently are priced very competitively compared to ones on the shelf at Auto Parts stores. The Toyota Facebook groups went nuts this year because WalMart began carrying OE Toyota filters. But they're about $8, when they're $6 or less at the dealership....Those are branded Denso, but made in Thailand, so still not that great, but better than many aftermarket.

2.5, FYI. Subaru filter in the US is made by Honeywell (Fram), most aftermarket ones are better. Everybody has their own opinion about oil filters. WIX and Purolator are generally considered pretty good. I keep Denso or sometimes Bosch filters on the shelf for my cars (anytime I'm ordering from RockAuto I check my shelf and add as necessary depending on pricing and warehouses).

Ancient picture (I think I sold the car in 2006 or so....) of my Blue '88.

I don't know for sure, I've done a lot of digging to try to find factory spring rates for these, my old notes show stock (00-04 OBW) rear springs at 190lb/in, Rallitek is 355 lb/in, and King stiffer still. If anything, I would assume the opposite. They have identical rear suspension, but the '05-'09s are heavier. Subiefish makes a lift kit that utilizes Tacoma front struts/springs in the rear of the Outback, but they want pretty good money for it. I have some stock takeoffs from a '13 Tacoma offroad (factory Bilsteins) that I plan to experiment with. Standard Tacomas have 495 lb/in springs, and Offroad with 595, so that's probably too much, but gives me something to experiment with.

Yea, I was assuming you weren't putting 2000 lbs in it....it should be able to handle 450ish. I think there are still ride height measurements in the FSMs. Might be worth seeing if it's officially sagging before you go buying springs.