Numbchux

It's possible the worn brushes on the motor were knocked clean as you replaced it (for the first month or so of driving my winter beater Outback this year, I had to smack the blower with my snow brush to get it to start working in the morning), just like smacking a bad starter. Or, your problem is actually a bad contact somewhere that you jostled when replacing, and it'll return...

I haven't been doing harnesses for many years....not worth the time. SJR still lists it on his site: https://www.sjrlift.com/collections/engine-swap/products/wiring-harness-thinout-ej-swap

Grain of salt: my expertise is with EA82s, but off the top of my head I think EA81 is the same or similar....but I could be wrong. You can hook the EJ temp sensor to the Brat gauge and it will read low, but still usable (you sort of have to mentally re calibrate what normal is...). You can use a resistor to fix that reading (details in the writeup). EA sensor uses larger threads than the EJ, so can't use that, and I don't think there's enough material to drill/tap to the larger size. Also there are universal sensor housings out there that fit inline with a radiator hose. If you go aftermarket (digital or analog), you can reuse that wire in the EJ harness for a clean installation. Tach is just a matter of hooking up the correct wire from the EJ ECU to the Brat gauge. Speedometer is mechanical. I know that an EA82 cable will work with an EJ transmission. People have swapped EA82 and EJ transmissions into EA81s many times, and I don't recall any discussion of any difficulty with cables there....

Very little will be identical. Phase 1 vs 2 engine/transmission. Different body style. Brakes are the same. Front struts, knuckles, control arms, axles will be similar (I think there's a difference in ABS sensor). Driveshaft will be the same if it's the same style transmission. Exhaust will be similar. Fuel pump is different. The BE/BHs don't seem to be plagued with filler neck issues. But the '00-'01 ones are susceptible to rear subframe rust. I just replaced that on my '00 330k mile OBK, and the filler neck looked great.

It only takes a few drops of oil to leave a residue in the reservoir, so don't panic yet. I would remove and clean out the reservoir, and keep an eye on it. Check it when the system is cold so the level is at it's lowest. The time to worry is when you have coolant in the oil, temperature creeping, or running issues. Even coolant consumption on these engines is usually just intake manifold gaskets.

I agree that it wasn't the right bolt.

Outskirts of Duluth

96 and 99 Legacy/Outback is the same body style. Everything can be used on your '96s. I wouldn't throw that away if you're trying to keep those '96s going. '01 won't help you much. Some mechanical stuff, but that's it.

Put a stereo and a poorly-installed subwoofer box in it like the other kids and call it a day. If you're only sort-of broke, get some tires better suited to your needs/wants (all-terrain, or high performance). There are some simple brake swaps from slightly newer Subarus that can usually be procured for cheapish (although usually require larger wheels and therefore new tires).

Hello, fellow Minnesotan!

Here's the factory service manual: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/2004/2004 USDM/. Go into the Transmission section. On page 37 of the Control systems file is a picture of the roll pin (this section is about removing the entire shift linkage, so most of the rest is not terribly helpful). Then in the Manual transmission file, page 43 is for the Transfer case and extension case removal. You only need to remove the extension case, so there's a lot more there than you need, but it's kind of useful. It talks about correctly shimming those bearings, but I wouldn't worry about that, I'd just transfer the shims from the old case into the new. The next section about the transfer drive gear is useful, as you'll have to transfer that from your old housing to new (just 4 bolts...). Here's the parts breakdown for the shift linkage: You'll have to remove the springpin marked 35083, and then slide that ujoint (35046) off the shaft on the transmission. You'll also have to separate the support rod from the transmission, probably easiest by removing the 3 bolts that hold 35033 bracket to the housing.

If you use that good used transmission. I bet you can get a core for $50-100. So more like $200-250.... I wouldn't describe a ujoint symptom as a rumble, more of a vibration, and usually only while under load. It's not generally play in the joint, but they seize. It can be felt by hand, but only after removing the shaft from the car.

Agreed. With a 4EAT, fluid does not circulate unless the engine is running. Regardless of engine.

I see 2 listed on car-part in NH for $150ea, about 150 miles from you. I bet those yards would be happy to ship one to you if the local ones don't want to bother. Jim's Used Cars in Ellsworth shows one from an '01 that needs joints for $100 (they also have a good transmission for $350, but I'd call around and see if anyone has a core that may not be listed online). 00-04 Outback and any year Baja with a Manual transmission is the best fit, but any Legacy/Outback manual 2004 or older would be acceptable. I used a shaft from an '07 in my '04, and it was a touch longer and felt like it was bottomed out in the transmission. I used it for a couple weeks and didn't have a problem, but I wouldn't recommend it as a long term fix. Lining up the parts are relatively easy. The hardest part will probably be the shift linkage. There's a double roll pin that has to be pounded out and then the 2 halves separated, here they have a tendency to rust together and require heat and/or pounding to get apart and back together.

Yep, GD is exactly right. We (when I worked at the dealership, over 2 years ago) started getting the truly updated ones about a month after I had the one in my '04 replaced, so I'll have to get it redone at some point. They updated the '05-'09 part number even sooner, probably 3 years ago.

Pads in backwards? What kind of pads and rotors did you use?

I'm sure it's been done hundreds of times. There are universal usb ports all over the internet. I bought some simple ones on ebay 10 years ago and installed them in my Celica. I tapped into the power for the cigarette lighter, and cut new holes in the stereo surround to mount them.

Any 5-speed manual from 2000 or newer will have the housing you need. A WRX has different transfer gears, so it might be best to avoid those in case you need those. Here's the parts diagram of the rear cover. You definitely broke the cover, callout number 32130, might have damaged the bearings or shafts inside there. Disconnect the shift linkage, remove 9(?) bolts, remove housing. Transfer bearings and shafts from old to new, apply sealant, reinstall bolts, reinstall shift linkage. Could have replaced just the ujoint probably 6 months ago. But it likely chewed threw the end caps and into the yoke since then, not to mention the damage done when it broke. This one just had a vibration. This one is too far gone for a good repair 20180105_185438 by Numbchux, on Flickr Here's a yoke after a joint failure.... 20190602_191605 by Numbchux, on Flickr It maybe could be botched together. But for the $50-100 for a used shaft, I wouldn't mess with it. www.car-part.com is a great resource for used parts. Frequently they will list transmission cores on there, which might be a cheap way to get your housing.

Looks like a manual. So no, can't drive it without the shaft. Completely fixable. extension housing can be replaced in the car. Buy a donor transmission (can even be blown up) for $100 or less and a "new" driveshaft, spend a few hours crawling around in gear oil, and it'll be fixed. I definitely would, but I just put a brand-new rear subframe in a rusty '00 Outback with 325k miles on it, so I might not be the best person to ask.

Vibration under load is textbook Ujoint, I see no reason to question that diagnosis. Driveshaft ujoints can fail, and they can fail catastrophically. Replacement joints are about $30, and a decent pain to install. But if it's left too long, and chews through the cap and into the yoke, you're looking at a new yoke, and shaft balancing, or replacing the whole shaft. The vibrations are transmitted right into the differential/transmission, which is not good for the bearings inside them. If it breaks entirely, it can destroy exhaust components, shift linkages, and I've even seen them break off a chunk from the rear of the transmission. Here's my saga on diagnosing and replacing them myself: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/driveshaft-u-joint-replacement.465866/

Don't hold your breath....it's been a nasty one.

My money is on front ujoint in the driveshaft. Slipping clutch feeling is the center VLSD trying to send power to the front. Gear oil will leak out if the slip yoke has fallen out of the transmission (or if the damage is bad enough, it can damage the rear transmission housing). It can damage the shift linkage.

Don't need a different master, just an M10 union.

Yep, if that's the only code, you likely need the sensor. 2-wire sensor, aftermarket listings usually have the one for the gauge listed as a "switch" and for the ECU as a "sensor", but that can vary.

Completely normal. You can waste electricity to warm just the transmission (when everything else will still be cold), you can waste gas to idle the car for a few minutes to warm everything up before you drive, or you can keep it below about 50 to let things warm up while moving (your gas mileage takes a hit much above that anyway).