Numbchux

These statements SCREAM u-joints. I know you said you swapped shafts, did you replace the joints yourself? Were you careful to maintain the orientation remained the same from the old joints? The FWD fuse basically eliminates any problems in the front end, and almost everything in the transmission. I've never heard a bearing noise (diff or wheel) that I would describe as a vibration, at all. Maybe a rear axle joint, but those fail so infrequently (I don't think I've ever seen one, and they're definitely not common, if available at all, in the aftermarket).

H6s rarely fail externally. So you'll want to give it a good hard drive (A/C on, freeway speeds, up hill) and see if it gets hot. I don't even inspect for an external leak, and that wouldn't give me the slightest pause if I were buying it.

I always inspected and carried spare pullies as well, but I saw plenty of belt failures without pulley failure. I completely blame the tensioner. I'm sure I've driven 50-70k miles on the 2 XT6s I've owned, and never even seen the timing components on either one. As you know (others might not), they share a very similar timing system, but with hydraulic tensioners.

Yea, I never had good luck with EA82 timing belts. I can't count on both hands the number of times I had one break (almost always the LH one, too. You can drive the the RH one broken....) on all the EA82s I ever owned. That why I hate them so much to this day (haven't owned one in more than 10 years...). Didn't seem to matter what parts I used, how it was installed, or anything. I just ran without covers and carried the necessary tools and spares, EVERYWHERE. I actually happened to glance at the clock the last time I changed one on the side of the road, and it was like 18 minutes, including putting coveralls on.

Very interesting project, ambitious but certainly doable. I do want to start with a reality check. I know the Z is an aerodynamic car, which will help on the freeway, and I know that going from the Iron-block V6 VG30DE to an all-aluminum 4 will save you some weight (I'd guess 200 lbs or so), but you'll still have a pretty heavy car (quick google search says curb weight of 3300lbs). I don't think you'll get anywhere near 35mpg with a Subaru engine, even in the best conditions. Subaru engines are not terribly fuel efficient, certainly not in stock tune. Assuming we're looking at a budget-friendly engine swap (I assume that since we're talking about fuel mileage, this is the case) that will probably cost $2-3k depending on the details. Anything newer than 2005-2007 (depending on the exact model/trim) will have an immobilizer, which pretty much puts it completely out of this category unless you're extremely knowledgeable and get some seriously valuable parts for free. Subaru didn't offer a non-turbo 2.0 until 2012. The hard part will be the transmission. Conventional automatic transmissions are not efficient, and modern ones that are require some serious computing power to run them (and Subaru doesn't make in a RWD configuration, so you'll be mixing and matching manufacturers. good luck!). Without fabricating your own engine-transmission adapter, your best bet is probably BRZ/FRS/GT86 transmission, or using one of Bill Hincher's adapters to an older Toyota transmission. The next issue is width. Horizontally-opposed engines do not typically fit well in engine bays not designed for them. I wouldn't be a bit surprised if it wouldn't fit between the upper control arm mounts. Gauges are one of the easiest parts. Tach signal converter to get that to read right. Might have to put the Nissan temperature sender in the Subaru engine. Speedometer might be a challenge depending on the transmission, but still completely doable. If I were to engine swap a Z32, with 35mpg the goal on a budget. It would be a manual transmission. If it had to be gas, I think it would be a Honda engine. But I would be pushing very hard for a VW TDi. I know there are transmission adapters to Toyota longitudinal transmissions (see them all the time in 4WD trucks, bellhousing would be the same for many RWD Toyota transmissions). Stock tune would likely yield 45mpg+, and with some mods 60+ isn't off the table.

Came here to post that link. Still have to cut, weld, smooth, and paint. That's where the expense comes in, and what makes it look nice. I see chunks of scrap sheet, even diamond plate, riveted or screwed over that rust hole on cars all the time in this area. Looks like complete garbage, and introduces more rust points on the original steel. Not worth any of the time, IMHO. Depending how bad it is, you can just hit it with a grinder back to bare metal, and then prep and paint over with POR15 or similar. It won't look great, but it's cheap and easy, and will stop it from getting worse.

As with most death wobble situations, it's likely a combination of things. I've never had anything I would call more than a vibration from a balance/centering problem, but it could be amplified by another component. First thing I'd do, since it's cheap and easy, is rotate the wheels/tires front-to-back. And when you do it, make sure you torque the nuts on the original studs first, then the 4 you added (thus helping separate any accuracy issues with the drilled lugs from the equation). Also take a close look at ball joints, tie rod ends, tie rods, and other suspension bushings. Much less likely to cause this issue, but worth looking at is the rag joint in the steering shaft. What kind of lift? I assume the strut rod/transmission crossmember brackets are spaced down from the body? Individual blocks or tied together?

I have not seen a quick strut in a brand I would use for any model Subaru.

It probably depends considerably on the design of the coilover. Yes, it's best to keep that bushing in there, as the factory geometry will put strain on the shock shaft otherwise. Suberdave has some good info on his website here: http://wordpress.suberdave.com/?page_id=54 It looks like the Tein system has a long enough shaft to maintain the bushing. But you can see he had to adjust those coilovers way down to make up for the mounting modification.

Google search for "strut delete" shows nothing like you describe on the first page. There are no reputable options for quick struts. Your options are: 1. Buy Junk 2. Do work 3. Pay someone else to do work.

04 Forester will have 294mm fronts

Yea, 2018 STi went to a 340mm, which is about 13.4". The listing showing 14 or 15 is to wheel size. Turbos got 15" wheels

In the US, anyway. The Turbo Legacy was the only first gen to get the 276s. All others got the 260s.

I had Borla headers on my '94 EJ22e in my '92 Loyale with a cat pipe from a '98 Legacy, no problem.

All the Legacies/Outbacks/Bajas/Tribecas have been made in Indiana since 1995, and some of them earlier. Impreza/Forester are made in Indiana as of the last couple years. That said, I'm under the impression that the engines are assembled in Japan and shipped over. But I'm not completely sure of that. I'm also under the impression that interference and single port heads were not correlated, and the parts catalog says the pistons changed as of mfg date of 7/96.

Use it to run different sized tires (spare). You can use it when daily driving, but it doesn't reduce any inertia (all the components still spin), and the physical drag from the clutches being released is negated by the hydraulic drag on the pump to release those clutches. IIRC, on the phase 1 transmissions, no hydraulic pressure (engine off) will lock those clutch packs, so engine off will not disengage the AWD. It can be handy to diagnose a transfer clutch problem.

It changes the allowable percentage in speed difference front to rear. Similar effect, just slightly different reason I disagree. The AWD actuation is effected most by the throttle position, gently bringing it off idle may not be enough to change it much. I'd give it a stab of throttle and rev it out to 3-4k and then let off. The best test is in the snow or mud, where there's enough drag so you can sustain 1/2-3/4 throttle and keep the tires spinning. But that's not exactly a practical test.

That logo is definitely pre-'90. Cool find!

Yes, they use transmission fluid to apply pressure to the clutch packs that transfer power to the rear. As mentioned, it relies on hydraulic pressure to engage the rear axle, so with the car off, driveshaft spinning by hand is definitely fine. Grain of salt, I haven't tested this, nor do I have a car with that AWD that I could test it on. BUT. There are 2 speed sensors, effectively measuring front and rear output speed, when a difference is detected it should feather the clutch packs to send a little torque to the rear. IIRC, regardless of any other conditions, it should apply some pressure to those clutches, which should spin the rear axle with no load on it. The only variable here that I'm unsure of, is that when you have it on jack stands, you're presumably at idle. It's possible that with no throttle detected, it won't apply enough pressure to the clutch packs to spin. If you blip the throttle with it in gear, and they still don't spin, you definitely have a problem. Also, this information covers nearly all 4EAT AWD Subarus (definitely your '95 Legacy), there are a few exceptions that have VTD AWD with a 4EAT. SVXs in other markets, Outback H6 VDC models (this is what I have, which is why I can't test this), and WRXs, maybe others. These models have a true differential, which is also limited by clutch packs.

Yea, with some mounts and axles (and wiring, and plumbing...all the normal swap stuff), a person could put almost any transverse FWD drivetrain in one. Wouldn't even be terribly hard to keep it AWD (custom driveshaft, finding a rear diff in the right ratio). People put VTEC Honda engines in old Minis fairly regularly....

Ha. I forgot Justy's use a 3-cyl....good call

No Justy uses an inline engine, transversely-mounted. About as different as it's possible to be and still be a 4-cylinder.

Bulbs can fail intermittently, but both of them? Not likely. Sounds like a headlight switch, easy enough to test with a multimeter and a wiring diagram.

As long as they're not corroded, they're good to go. Threads will pull out of the block before the bolts will stretch.

GD is right. It can be done, but it's not simple. There is no "kit". It will require a lot of custom parts, and a lot of work (yes, I've done it).