Olnick

Well, IMO you're right--it's absolutely beautiful! Congratulations. Looks like the previous owners took wonderful care of it. How many miles on it?

Welcome to USMB! Wow--25 years, one owner--that's great! Tell us about your car--mileage--pictures?

Consider new plug wires. Get OEM or NGK--do not use parts store cheapies!

Welcome to the USMB, Nate. Post your problem in the New Gen forum to get help.

I think it will. Maybe someone with more knowledge about it will confirm!

That was a lovely gesture on the part of the shop. Any idea yet if the problem was fixed?

A point of perspective . . . the CEL may not bother you as long as you know it's not a problem. But what happens if it's trying to tell you there IS a problem? Just something to think about!!!

That '96 in Chino looks nice. Just be aware--that was the very first year for the DOHC 2.5 and IIRC it required premium gas.

"Since it will be out" . . . Yes! Replace the oil separator plate on the back right (passenger) side of the block. Also remove the diamond shaped access plate on the left side and replace the O-ring inside it. Inspect the rear main seal but don't mess with it unless it's really bad--trying to replace it usually leads to more problems than you started with! Good luck.

The '96 2.2 was not interference. That started with the '97 model.

Welcome to the USMB, Stoltenberg! Good catch on the air hose. That is totally inexcusable if you had the car at a Subaru dealership--they owe you an explanation and probably a fix! I doubt that it broke anything. Hopefully others here will offer help on the misfiring and hard starting. Good luck--and keep us informed with the outcome.

Shouldn't be any problem at all. But the car will run slightly better and more efficiently when you do replace it. (Someone correct me if I'm wrong here!!!)

Zing! Good one, brus bro!!!

Which brings up a pet peeve of mine: All automotive hoses should be clearly marked for size!

I suggest you use Subaru OEM crank & cam seals and the oil pump O-ring too. Seal the pump to the block with anaerobic sealant or Permatex Ultra-Grey--just make a nice, even bead and don't overdo it. You don't want bits of that RTV breaking off into your oil. The oil pump backing plate does not need any "sealing." You just need to tighten up the screws holding it on--they often tend to back out. Some folks Loctite those screws. Good luck!

I'm confused--what do you mean by "it does try to start but will not." Does the starter crank the motor or not? Do you hear any noises or clicks?

Very wise counsel, Adventure. I think you are absolutely right, witzkim. But at this point it might be best to "roll with it" and pray that it works out for the best! Hope all goes well for you

Also consider new plugs and wires. Use NGK plugs and Subaru OEM or NGK wires.

Great response, Emily!!!

Sorry--for some reason I can't paste a link in here! So try this: Go to advanced search and in "find words" enter: Location Of Idle Air Control (?) For "find author" enter: hklaine For "find in forum" choose: Newer Generation Forum, 1990 to Present Then search. Hope this helps!

Did you securely clamp the airbox shut after you dropped the new filter in?

What year? '90 through '96 are non-interference. '97 and later are interference.

Welcome aboard! Congratulations, that's a good looking ride.

Wow! What a beauty--great buy. Keep us up on your progress.

Most reasonable source for EJ22s would be a Pull n' Pay yard--probably a couple of hundred dollars, depending on where you are. Hopefully Larry (lmdew) or some other swapmasters will chime in with ideas. Post your location in your ID--people might have some specific suggestions then. Good luck.