Olnick

The ECT is the brown (brick red?) one on the crossover pipe. There should be another one--can't remember the color--right beside it that serves the Temp Gauge on the dash.

Good stuff Larry--thanks. And I love the guy's sound effects!

How did you find the torn boot--during inspection or was the axle giving you problems/making noises? Might be worth re-booting your old axle if it's mechanically sound.

Welcome aboard, Mark. Your approach is very wise--ask questions and learn. And USMB is a great place to do it--very helpful people here. Just one question: What is FCP?

Tires should be within 1/4 inch circumference of each other . . . not diameter.

nitroman--not sure what the tech means by "camshaft carrier seals." Do you see oil leaking from the bottom of the timing belt cover? There are camshaft seals that would require opening up the front end as you would to replace the timing belt. Normally that would not require removing the engine. Also there are O-rings (at least there are on the older EJ22!) on the front end of the left (driver's side) head and at the rear of the right (passenger's side) head. To access the left one requires opening up the front end. The right one is a piece of cake--two bolts holding a cap on the backside of the head. If the dealer is willing to change seals under warranty, I'd say go for it! Good luck.

What engine are you working on? As far as I know there's nothing to service or re-seal at the rear of the left (driver's side) head on an EJ engine.

The Mizumo kit you got does not include a tensioner--it has the new roller w/bearing that mounts on the tensioner. The water pump gasket is metal, the equivalent of a Subaru OEM gasket. I think it's best to get the oil pump O-ring from a Subaru dealership--it's only a couple of bucks.

Great questions! The 5 seals confused me too, so I called them. Seems they had forgotten to shoot a catalog pic for the EJ22 so they just used the one for the EJ25! They'll send you 2 extra cam seals. The odd size seal is for the crank. Most of us use Permatex "Ultra-Grey" to seal the oil pump. It's acceptable to Subaru, although "Anaerobic" is the preferable one. Do a search here (USMB) or on Google or in a Haynes manual for the sealing pattern. Main thing, don't glob too much on--just a narrow bead along a specific pattern. Yes, your '95 EJ22 is a non-interference engine. There's tons of excellent material here on USMB--try a search. I pulled some stuff for you earlier but couldn't get it to link to a post! Will try again later. And keep asking questions!!!

Yeah, you're Subaru enough. Welcome aboard!

Great place here, isn't it? Good doing on the fix. And welsome aboard the USMB!

When you have the oil/fluid problem solved get high quality wires. Subaru OEM or some say NGK is good. And you really don't need platinum plugs--basic NGK "V-Power" plugs are just fine!

Welcome aboard, Dan--Congrats!!! Got any pix?

Well, shoot! That's the best fix yet! Hope it continues for you.

Welcome aboard USMB, Paul. Post your question in the New Gen Forum--better place to get answers there.

From the middle of one ocean to the middle of another--welcome to the USMB, Hoddi! Tell us about your car. Got any photos?

Sorry about your problems. Don't know about a 2004 model, but back in the '90s Subie fuel gauges were just plain flakey--inaccurate and would often not work at all. Consider looking for a used pump at a Pull 'n Pay. Good luck.

About the copper contacts: You can get a set of new contacts for $15 or less on-line or at an auto-electric shop. I've never bothered with the ring on the solenoid shaft--just clean up the face with fine wet-and-dry sandpaper. One word of warning--there are numerous shapes and sizes of contacts. It's a good idea to remove yours first so you can make a visual match with new ones.

^ What mikaleda said. You can check the contacts and replace them yourself for just a few bucks.

May I offer my $0.02? Before I'd buy an aftermarket starter (new or "rebuilt") from a parts store, I'd pull the existing starter and take it to an auto-electric shop--get an honest evaluation and an estimate for fixing or replacing. Or--go to a P 'n P and grab a decent looking used starter. At any rate, good luck! (And happy new year!)

So front seats are not side specific? I never thought of that! Great idea, Larry--thanks!

That's great to hear!

Way to go, Teach! Proud of you. Stick around--as you well know, the good folks of USMB are eager, willing and happy to help each other! (Kinda' the way life should be!)

Now that's funny. Sounds like Fairtax and I agree! (I wrote my response then went to dinner--came back to the computer and realized I hadn't hit send!)

Sounds like you got a good deal on your car--congrats! Hope the MMO works for you (it did wonders on my son's high mileage '92 Legacy.) Suggest you do the front-end/timing belt as soon as practical. If the oil pump backing plate is loosening it puts extra pressure on the crank seal--which could explain your front oil leak. If you know which end of a wrench to hold you'll be just fine. Shoot, I'm no great mechanic but I've done three 2.2 timing belts over the past few years! For parts check out Mizumo Auto on E-bay. They have a complete kit--belt, idlers, crank & cam seals, water pump (Aisin) and w/p gasket--for $136 plus shipping ($17 FedEx, I think.) Try a search here on USMB for procedures and helpful hints. I'll try to dig up some info and post links. Ask questions here--and keep us posted on your progress. Good luck!