mikec03

I may be the only other person on this site that also had a HG failure on a 2.2 engine. It happened at 217K on a 95. It was an internal leak just like the OP with bubbles in the coolant reservoir. The back end frame rails were rusted through so I just junked the car. I don't think anyone know if the HG failures are entirely mileage driven or if there is a strong component of time involved. Why don't you just swap in an old 2.2 especially if you are mechanically inclined? HG failures on a 2.2 are so rear that I don't think it matters what the mileage on the old engine would be.

Stevo F has the right idea. You must cut out and inch beyond the perforation. If the hole is 2 inches, cut a 4 inch hole, at least. I use some naval jelly to convert any rust beyond the hole on the backside, rinse off the jelly & dry, and then spray the backside with undercoating. The hole can then be fiberglassed and bondo it.

First, follow Roster 2's advice. Second, is the car a NA 2.5? If so, it has the new MLS HG's, and it should not have a HG problem? So we will be interested in follow up on it.

When I had leaks from the oil pressure sensor on two subarus, it was pretty dry under the sensors but pooled on the drivers side on top of the engine. So I wouldn't reject the oil sensor leak possibility. Plus, it's hard for me to understand how the oil could leak up from the HG. Maybe someone can explain.

According to the factory, you should use a gasket sealer goop. Search for best type or wait for other replies. However, when I did the oil pump on my 97 2.2 engine, I went to advanced auto and got one of their thin, paper like gaskets because I was afraid of getting some of the goop in the oil circulation system. It worked fine.

Your right but you should watch some youtubes. Here's good one for lining up the hash marks. It's for a 2.5 but it's the same as a 2.2.

The ticking may be nothing to worry about. Does it go away or reduce when the oil warm up? My sons 97 ticks like mad on start up and has done so for 100K miles.

It could be a lot of things, but just to start, take out the IAC and the throttle body. Clean it all with carburetor cleaner. You will need to buy a $5 gasket to reattach the TB. You don't have to disconnect the coolant lines to the TB.

It doesn't have a cable. The following youtube link shows someone replacing the window drive on a 2005 forester. It's excellent and 29 minutes long. Your 2002 is similar. http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=replace%EE%80%81+window+subaru+%EE%80%80youtube&&view=detail&mid=22AF362AB22E413D16DB22AF362AB22E413D16DB&FORM=VRDGAR

Yes, the FWD fuse puts the car in front wheel drive if the Duty C solenoid is still working. It is located on the passinger side on the strut tower [but it was moved sometime after 99 I think]. For the OP's benefit, I operated a 90's subaru for years with the fuse in but taking it out whenever it snowed. No problem. Of course a switch on the dash would have been better.

Subaru has used the terms first, second, etc generation in different ways so I have lost track of what they mean. If you are asking about the FB engine, which has been on the outback from 2013, then the answer is in all probability they have solved the problem.

I have an 02 and a couple of older subarus. I can't say that the problems that I've had are identical to your history but similar. 1. Oil on the ignition wires even if subsequently wiped off. Common problem for your engine. 2. Fuel pump failure. When turning on ignition, don't crank, listen for 1 sec of pump running. 3. MAF failure. Did they switch back to the MAF in 05? The MAF failure is intermittent and doesn't always set a code. Although, it would seem odd to your symptoms, I suggest that you to pull for the timing belt covers and check timing just to rule it out.

The undercoating wouldn't reach the break lines which do run over the gas tank. I've had two 90's subaru on which I had to replace the brake lines so I think that is your problem. Incidentally, the fix is to run new brake lines from the point they exit underneath the passenger seat, around the gas tank on the right side, and connect to the break lines at the existing unions.

First of all I want to express great sympathy for your problem. I have been maintaining multiple 2.2 engines for the last 20 years. And intermittent problems are the worst kind to solve. Second, these cars are so old that it is much more economic or your money and time to just go the you-pull-it or carparts.com and just get a replacement. Third, now go get a complete replacement for you MAF. It doesn't matter what a grand job you did with your soldering iron, it's only $30 to get a complete replacement. As stated by earlier posters, the MAF is a problem for old subarus. The same goes for the throttle position sensor or IAC and or even the whole throttle assembly if you can bargain it down to a low cost. By the way, the TPS is difficult to calibrate just so you know. Search for procedure.

Aisin is a good quality replacement for the water pump. Otherwise, the gates kit is widely used for the pulleys, etc.

Brad9250. We need the codes. Since you can't get to a auto parts place, buy a cheap reader and check the codes yourself. ps. it's better to start your own thread rather then tacking to one that is old.

Edmonds is good for that.

You need to listen for the fuel pump running for 1-2 sec when you turn the key to on. You may have to have someone else in the back of your car to hear it although it can be heard clearly from the driver seat if you listen carefully. Failure of the fuel pump is very common.

+1 to putting in a EJ2.2. I have two subarus with them and I don't feel that they are short on power. It's the quickest, cheapest and best solution. Kind of a no brainer.

The fuel pump relay is under the dash and is difficult to access. However, it you can hear your pump run when you turn on the ignition, why are you worried about the relay? If it doesn't run, then it's probably a fuel pump failure which is fairly common. I just go and get a used complete assembly and put it in.

I've used the started bump four times without a problem. The cheater pipe goes on the frame next to the battery and you disconnect the sparkplugs. Given how hard the crank bolt is on, I wouldn't have anyone around the car, aside from yourself in the driver seat, if you try this. Good luck.

Maybe I'm an expert in this area. I've bought four 90's subaru's for my two sons. Both of the cars they are now driving have 150K miles. This amounts to about 20 driver years of experience on all four cars. The maintenance that stopped the cars was: Alternator failure [2], fuel pump failure [2], MAF failure [1], and throttle positioner failure [1]. So thats a "stranding event" about every 3 years for cars with 130K+ miles. So I tell my kids, that it's alright to drive within about 100 miles of home but not long trips. A 100 mile tow cost is about $200 which is tolerable. I told my kids that if they want to drive somewhere on vacation, they can take my 2014 subaru and I'll drive theirs. I enjoy driving the 90's subarus anyway.

I live in Wisconsin, and we can untread our bolts by hand too, except we need a 4 ft cheater in the hand.

If the AT temp light is flashing, then there is something wrong with the transmission. You can read the codes for the transmission which will explain what it is. Search for directions on how to do this or go to someone who can do it..

It's a little early for this, but those are the classic signs of starter failure. A good way to check if its a neutral switch or other problem is to touch the solenoid connection on the starter with a wire directly from your battery. If it doesn't crank, then you know it's the starter.