subyrally

ive byppassed the coolant lines around hte throttle body in both my cars that were fuel injected. driven my impreza like that in negative temps and lots of snow, noever had any issues with that. never had any issues with my rx either, but it rarely saw temps below 10*f, so im not sure how it would have dealt with sub zero temps, but im sure it would have been just fine. it never had any problems playing in the snow here though.

hmmm, needs more cowbell and some duct tape.

that would look so nice in my tool collection. pity that is well outta my range for now:(

i know my flux core welder was made by lincoln, but under their cheap line, century. granted, i think mine was a defect, it never worked right.

i want to see this.

yeah, once again, i fail at uploading pics, but i did get some ito the album. for some reaon though, only half of what i uploaded today actually showed up. stupid computer.

lol, oh yeah, haha. i tried to upload my pics to the usmb photo galleries, but failed on multiple occasions.

lol, thats soo true. granted, the purchase price of mine wasnt very much $350, but the repair costs are rising, good thing ive done the work myself thus far. once i get the car drivable, the cost is going to get higher since ill be able to transport it to various shops.

just be careful not to pull up the tar from the floors, you might not like what you find. i thought my brat only had a few rust holes in the areas behind the seats, then it turned out to be the entire section under the seat where the floor is attached to the floor support under the car. the "rust proofing" rubber undercoating actually traps the water between the floor and the support and thus it rusts like there is no tomarrow. notice that you can see day light behind the door sill chunk, there is not rocker left on that side. i guess there would be if i could get the little bits done, lol.

wow, way to beat the odds man, congrats:banana:

www.photobucket.com ?

if i had the means to make it down there with the brat, id take you up on that offer. hell, i wouldnt mind hanging out again. its been what, three or four years now since the last time?

rust repair isnt that hard when you have the right tools. unfortunatly, i have the materials and time, just crappy tools. my welder is still very dead:dead:

you can, but then i think that the braket for the wastegate wont line up right with the holes in the compressor housing. i think thatwas the td04 i tried that on. i think its only like 6 bolts holding it in place,give it a try, worst case, you have to rotate it back and tighten it down.

thats great man, congrats on getting it alive again. feels good, dont it:headbang: and you are very welcome for it man, this is the place to come for help and advice, im sure i speak for the rest of the guys here when i say that.

if you swapped the manifolds, check the intake gaskets, it almost sounds like that might be the source of both problems, i speak from expiriance on that one. it sounds like its either hte gaskets (most likely cause) or possibly a bad manifold. in my case, i think i had a crack in the manifold, but i first thought it was the engine, so swapped it for a known good long block, and had the exact same problem. changed the manifold and it cleared up. and from my dealings with the ea82t, you should be able to swap harnesses rather easily, just be careful of the purge solinoids on the left side as they break easily. but the harnesses are interchangable for the most part. rarely you might have to swap a sensor or two. good luck with that and hope all turns out well. i know how frustrating a poorly running car can be.

good luck and enjoy your turkey

when i mande the custom header for my rx, i got 1 7/8" id mandrel bent piping for hte cross over and then for the collector, since no one makes the right size for a 2 into 1, i actually got an exhaust tip from advance auto. i had to cut off the mounting end of it where its flaired out to slide over the muffler tip, then i cut off the two angle tips at the other end of it. the only prblem was that the two pipes they use for the tips come together like a clam shell inside of the tip, so it needs to be trimmed with a dremmel. but for $8 you get a 2, 1 7/8" into 1, 2" collector. then from there i used a 2" pipe upe to the turbo. my first attempt wasnt pretty and leaked (bad welder) but the second version came out nice since i had a shop build it for me. made a notaceable difference in lag as well as top end power. then again, i was running the td04 and 3" exhaust from the turbo back. man, i miss my rx.

at least you have shops that are willign to look at rust, there is only on shop i know of in my area that will even take the time to look at rust, even if its easily fixable. they only are willing to fix rust because they do classic car restoration.

gd, i hate to say it, but if you want to rag on the ea81, start another thread. you know, some people like doing things because they are different, the road less traveled so to speak. but sure, if you wanted to get power with out spending a lot of money, you could do an ej swap. but seriously,hop of the soapbox, and quit being so agressive about the ej swap. not everyone wants to go ej in their cars, i dont, not in my brat anyways. and post count means nothing.

very nice.

use the right stuff sealant, there is reason that its so expinsive, it works and works well.

the other thibng you have to look at, these engines are generally going into a single engine plane. wouldnt yoou prefer to spend a few $$ more and know its going to be safe and reliable at the power levels they run at? im always willing to pay a little more to know that the parts will hold up to abuse and what not. sure, you could get the same performance from cheaper parts, but for how long?

nice, very nice.

very nice. looks like its a blast to drive. and that looks like a civic behind in the last pic there.